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<p><span style="font-size: 14px;">暮色渐浓，当我担心着司机是否走错路，或者因为语言不通而把我们带到错误的地方时，车子停了下来。<span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-size: 14px;"><strong>“马苏蕾？”“是的，马苏蕾。”</strong></span>下车，星光扑面而来，夜色中慢慢看清楚，原来我们来到了山脚下，头顶的星星，和从山腰到山脚的点点灯火，如瀑布般倾泻下来。</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6752475247524753" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwj9g5zoz7ZrtA28coRYQSyMqLV7NpGmv6Q4uJc0PrYI8pra7icM9Atzsw/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="" style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;"></span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">在伊朗东西南北漫游大半个月后，从里海畔的城市恩扎里驱车2小时，在山间兜兜转转，终于来到这个传说中的<strong>“<span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-size: 14px;">伊朗最美乡村</span>”</strong>。</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">伊朗的国土大多是干旱的荒漠和半荒漠，居兰省是少有的温润地带，雨水富足，覆盖着连绵的森林和稻田，满眼绿意。位于居兰省两山怀抱之间的马苏蕾（Masuleh），海拔千米，人口千余，历史却已有上千年。</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">一条小溪流淌而下，将村子分为两半，司机沿着溪边绕了一圈，好不容易才找到停车处——各种私家车早已捷足先登，家庭客栈也都已客满。马苏蕾竟然如此热门，敢情我们来到了伊朗的凤凰！</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(247, 150, 70); font-size: 14px;">于是，这个探访童话乡村的故事迅速转变画风，而我的心情，也瞬间从惊艳到失望，纠结着是否应该走为上着。</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><img data-ratio="1.5172413793103447" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjr5AwA63Bh4zSeyzibjJLNGia3aoKKpNX904khtU7j1JUOFEiaCNJ9aKSw/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="348" style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></p><p><br /></p><p style="padding: 0px; border-radius: 5px; text-align: center; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 2em; font-family: 微软雅黑; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; white-space: pre-wrap; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1.5em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-shadow: 0px 1px 1px rgb(69,117,58); background-color: rgb(86, 159, 8);"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(242, 242, 242); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(0, 176, 240); line-height: 25px; text-indent: 28px; font-family: sans-serif; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">别在周末去马苏蕾</span></strong></span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(0, 176, 240); line-height: 25px; text-indent: 28px; font-family: sans-serif; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(242, 242, 242); font-family: 宋体; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(0, 176, 240); line-height: 25px; text-indent: 28px; font-family: sans-serif; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(0, 176, 240); line-height: 25px; text-indent: 28px; font-family: sans-serif; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(242, 242, 242); font-family: 宋体; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(0, 176, 240); line-height: 25px; text-indent: 28px; font-family: sans-serif; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(242, 242, 242); font-family: 宋体; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(0, 176, 240); line-height: 25px; text-indent: 28px; font-family: sans-serif; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(0, 176, 240); line-height: 25px; text-indent: 28px; font-family: sans-serif; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(242, 242, 242); font-family: 宋体; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></span></strong></span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">几天前在伊朗东部遇到一名德国游客，他就曾告诫我们：<span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">“马苏蕾很美，但千万不要在周末去。</span>”</span>种种阴差阳错之下，我们偏偏在周五晚上来到，此时离开已经太晚，不得不暂且在山脚的旅馆将就一晚。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6712871287128713" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjW1KjibJsgIIdR2iaMS5uV3o6Kbbn21On5sRZTPwrrzWQr8snWt05tXOA/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">晚饭是在巴扎吃的，在其他城市大得像迷宫的波斯巴扎，在山村马苏蕾就成了窄窄的购物餐饮一条街，人头涌涌，商铺沿街挂着的旅游纪念品做工粗糙俗气，很有可能产自中国义乌。</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(247, 150, 70); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">受以美国为首的西方国家制裁多年，伊朗的游客数量与这个国家拥有的文化遗产和灿烂历史不成正比</span><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">。这一路，除了“半天下”的伊斯法罕，大概就属马苏蕾最多游客了，哪怕绝对人数不多，挤进这个仅有千人的小村庄，就显得相当壮观——当然，仍然罕见外国人面孔。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6673267326732674" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjMUTrA8HReeL0oyIMYAFo45eKj2PXiceGBmyzQWCrZFO4MzLfX2oOkgg/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">跟两个年轻姑娘聊起来，她们告诉我，游客大多是从德黑兰过来度周末的。对于马苏蕾的过分热闹，她们毫不在意，这已经是她们第二次来。“周五下班，开四个小时车就能逃离空气污浊、交通堵塞的德黑兰，来到这个小乡村呼吸清新空气，周日满血复活地回城，这是多美好的周末呀！”</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">对于德黑兰人来说，马苏蕾就是他们的后花园，广州人的阳朔，北京人的坝上，上海人的乌镇同里。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="1.501416430594901" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjocexMvKibzUaCs85AARWtic19bUc6LN0b27Gdd9NvxQNQhnsps9WcHEg/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="353" style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"> <br /></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; border-radius: 5px; text-align: center; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-indent: 28px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; min-height: 1.5em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-shadow: 0px 1px 1px rgb(69,117,58); background-color: rgb(86, 159, 8);"><span style="line-height: 25px; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 15px;"><strong>你家的屋顶，就是我家的庭院</strong></span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">白天的村庄，仿佛立体迷宫。世界上依山而建的村庄很多，马苏蕾之所以有名，是因为其独特的建筑风格：沿着山势造房子，下家的屋顶是上家的庭院，敞开的庭院不设围栏，走到边缘，往前一步就是悬崖深谷，虽然少了点安全感，却又处处是观景台。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">回头一看，游人坐在上家屋檐上晃荡双脚，好不悠哉。拐一个弯，爬几级台阶，再拐一个弯，从庭院爬上屋顶，层层叠叠的民宅似乎一直延伸到云雾里去，总也爬不到尽头。</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">对于文艺片影迷来说，想象中的伊朗就是阿巴斯电影里的样子</span>，但在伊朗大城市，我没有找到半点阿巴斯的感觉，直到此刻，此地。</span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6633663366336634" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjTfpnFZJcgr2pibib7Lia3DqrRQibPLlWIZXN1XSqOT1JBrpZZ2SicUxwJjQ/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="" style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6673267326732674" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJauFGWsw3PLMiaeiaSroUQib5xPmq4ZV0NIyXUk6icVjs2icWSaib0jib6jng4NX67ZqGaB2fpLRu4C3HlFg/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""><br /></span></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6673267326732674" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjZcerwLVe6vZ6CRe5ZwDCmdRGuoE61XuAFCicVdibOv4DH36Du2tsNyYQ/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">由于历史悠久、建筑风格突出且保存完好，马苏蕾已被列入伊朗国家文化与自然遗产，伊朗旅游部在联合国教科文组织指引下对马苏蕾进行保护性开发，鼓励社区经济。而马苏蕾比丽江凤凰强的地方在于，<span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">除了那条巴扎街，村里并没有挂满招牌，商业气息还不算重。</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">我被一家民居窗台的鲜花吸引，抱着试试看的心态询问有没有空房，一位大妈和她儿子马上迎出来，把我们带上楼<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">。</span></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(247, 150, 70); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(247, 150, 70); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6693069306930693" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwj8j2UDChw9eWtOeZO5KoTZSkcI90icLmxuKEibGJNcREOAvs68Hs4BQdA/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="" style="white-space: normal;"></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(247, 150, 70); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">宽敞明亮的房间铺着几张花纹鲜艳的大地毯，两扇大窗户把半山风景迎进来，除了角落里的取暖器和叠成一摞的床褥，就没有任何家具家电。</span><span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">这正是典型的伊朗乡村民居，跟阿巴斯电影一模一样。粉红色的窗帘上方挂着两幅霍梅尼画像，“老大哥”无处不在。</span><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p><img data-ratio="0.7526205450733753" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjtEh2v9Bmk4FDRtia6icsemxRgzib81DOeibeZJIGOcWFC6Xycn36CtBZrQ/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="477"></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6792079207920793" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJauFGWsw3PLMiaeiaSroUQib5xictT3yVqkHayiaHmaQSRfa65Slv6MdZGRG7aibjMGfRB5hlvibo3uu9uDg/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">“下楼喝茶！”跟在伊朗其他所有地方一样，不喝几杯热甜茶唠唠嗑再走，就多少有点失礼。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">一楼是大妈自家的起居室，连着开放式厨房，厨房里嵌入式烤箱、微波炉、冰箱一应俱全。大叔躺在地毯上闭目养神，大妈盘腿坐在丈夫身前，笑容灿烂地让我们拍照。然后，大叔微笑着坐起身来，一把把弯腰倒茶的妻子拉过来，抱着她的脸蛋猛亲，大妈咯咯娇笑起来。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="1.4988864142538975" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJauFGWsw3PLMiaeiaSroUQib5xwGI9nv73emzYHp3uwugGRSwbGRhfM7waUuKDmBkb9545QBDs5BicJyA/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="449"><br /></span></p><p><img data-ratio="1.5066666666666666" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjyPGS6ZmJvaBqjD6lQmCTEADv3krnDWQm7tdbVApsdiaUdcWnl4h1peA/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="450"></p><p style="white-space: normal;"><img data-ratio="0.6633663366336634" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjpGS31kejp82ibibvvZUeHQ3YpQjXdyH4r501ic5SRSNvyfHqKInvYmoYA/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6633663366336634" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjPo7LnjFBiaKOXJxgXBWqXxS64ILRfYfia28PLFxsXIa8zCaictnibJtPbw/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">这番亲热“表演”让我大为意外，伊朗是个十分保守的国家，婚前恋爱都得偷偷摸摸进行，即使是夫妻，也极少在公众场合有亲密举动。大妈戴着轻薄的三角头巾，脖子皮肤露出一截，严格说也是不符合伊斯兰着装规定的。伊朗的年长妇女大多戴黑色头巾，甚至穿黑色罩袍，只露出脸和双手。</span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">不仅是村民，来马苏蕾的游客都显得比城里轻松，尤其是年轻姑娘，头巾松松垮垮地搭在脑袋上，滑下来也不着急去拉，还敢当众抽烟。</span><span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">看来，促使他们从德黑兰逃离到马苏蕾的，不仅是糟糕的空气和交通</span><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">。山脚下有好些小货车，是伊朗人的“房车”，他们把货厢门打开，架起小炉烧茶喝。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"></span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6613861386138614" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJauFGWsw3PLMiaeiaSroUQib5xoF1AibQUSGyUEsZOM9v1iaTguHIWnSlWD50qc3peusVF531DWenusoCA/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6693069306930693" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjia0qepYgbib1icQY0YotGrOpPmvVJDzTgicbLT42CmQjWfmc6FicqaWgQnw/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="" style="white-space: normal;"></span></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6732673267326733" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjnLT7wWtY6j9cSxfesgkMAfsICTH7qlIngnnFvttPuibT2L6rZr447EA/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""><br /></p><p><br /></p><p style="padding: 0px; border-radius: 5px; text-align: center; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 2em; font-family: 微软雅黑; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; white-space: pre-wrap; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1.5em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-shadow: 0px 1px 1px rgb(69,117,58); background-color: rgb(86, 159, 8);"><strong style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">冲进浓雾</span></strong></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">随后，我们爬到村庄对面的山腰，终于看清楚马苏蕾的全貌。从山脚到山腰的房子在视觉上形成绵延不绝的气势，<span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">恍如山间宫殿，而且统一使用黄泥糊墙，除了绿色穹顶的清真寺，就没有别的颜色打破和谐</span>。山顶云雾缭绕，阴天的马苏蕾有宁谧的美。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6673267326732674" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjvqictJ9Ex0btmliatjXEjPxVISkFJNajzHzmZ37ibD5XC36UcO67rl3Nw/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="" style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">我们包了辆车往山顶走。越往山上走，植被越少，雾越来越浓，两米开外就什么都看不见了。司机把车速放到步行一般，一寸寸往前挪。</span></p><p><br /></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6712871287128713" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjvGdXPdH27Hr0WhV5fADrSnyABjpNwo9vJaOyNOnCPzV490orly0WQQ/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">我们遇到扛着锄头从山上下来的两个农民，他们告诉司机，继续走。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">我们遇到在路边野餐的一家人，他们邀我们停下来喝茶。<span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">在前不着村后不着店，只有阴冷山峰浓雾的悬崖边喝茶？没有比伊朗人更爱野餐的了！</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6653465346534654" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjwN4eFE2DEDEiafeKT0DaXFF5ibDk6fuf91Z5ga9o9FicS3Rf9YzeRDeAw/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="" style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">我们遇到没有缰绳的两匹马，横着身子站在路中央，目中无人地甩着尾巴。司机停下车去温和驱赶，它们才慢悠悠地踱到路边。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">我们遇到搭皮卡的一队年轻人，<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">他们翻山过来，一路开着强劲的音乐，大方告诉我们，这里面有3对情侣，1个单身</span>——<span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">西方音乐和婚前恋爱在这个国家都是被禁止的，山高皇帝远的乡村和大雾，成了他们最好的掩护。</span></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">当我们再次上路，浓雾里，前不见方向，后不见来路，<span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">世界只剩下孤零零的这一辆车，仿佛先前见到的人和物都是幻觉。</span></span></p><p style="white-space: normal;"><br /></p><p style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">突然，眼前的雾亮了起来，还没等我反应过来，车就冲出了迷雾，来到阳光下，悬崖边斜立着一棵大树，满树的叶子像银子一样闪闪发光。我们赶紧下车拍照，<span style="color: rgb(227, 108, 9);">峡谷间涌动的云海已经位于我们脚下，像雪被般把村庄盖得严严实实</span>，在阳光下亮得晃眼，回头，十多米开外的公路依然被白雾遮蔽。</span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6653465346534654" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjzTKkrjHGrBSqQiaahNmBTUOA5qf5rdViaeFGCYawrp6yMeMfWsSksZkA/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""></p><p><img data-ratio="0.5564356435643565" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjhfdTMlUsXy43Vj9beIYwbQXK5yd0kmh7rDia0Ft0HX55LpWIdJLkjTg/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""></p><p><img data-ratio="0.5603960396039604" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJauFGWsw3PLMiaeiaSroUQib5xGDfG0Z8FDfkqZhzPeqNd4B8BKmBkab8FII4LIfhuHWXQHg4nlgjO3A/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""></p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">（治疗颈椎病开始）</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="3.677685950413223" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjTWCZpctDLSia8rcpKDU2oovKsOoNAlb39t4jKHlpvMaNvmYb8baJAlA/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="363" height="892" style="width: 363px;" width="231"><br /></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">（治疗结束）</span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">才摁了几下快门，大雾又赶上来，美景瞬间消弭无形，我们何其幸运，赶上了云开雾散的一瞬间。</span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">幸好，我们的车走得比雾快，比云海高。迷雾已经被远远抛在后面，我们终于来到了路的尽头。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">广阔的山坡上覆盖着绿油油的草，羊群像珍珠一样散落着，何以山腰贫瘠，山顶却如此葱茸？难道大雾是通向云上仙境的隧道？</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6633663366336634" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJauFGWsw3PLMiaeiaSroUQib5xFMORLenic3DgkXFGFibSI10SZPN1mhTqibA7zQrDicSY3MlOGucdFwHbaQ/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6653465346534654" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjTvOj00B0koHds4CIPxfmTgCI28LuehzY94LPYkwKSwfpxKybQgicNWw/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6653465346534654" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjqcquhgiaBDlXTYADuWkZnQSNTZrSibicO0fSmd0ibaExDiaiacxLLo20SicQw/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">此刻，村庄、山路、大雾都已不复存在，只有草地、羊群和两名牧羊人，世界如此纯粹。牧羊人挥着竹竿，像国王般地赶着羊群，白白胖胖浑身卷毛的绵羊在云海之上走着猫步，这是我见过最美的T台。正是日落时分，夕阳把云海染成粉红。</span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">远处山尖挂着一块“珠帘”，它慢慢往下挪动着，我才看清是被牧羊人带下来的另一队羊群。山坳里两间屋子，篱笆围起来的大羊圈，就是它们的家。</span></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><img data-ratio="0.5603960396039604" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjWCVKntiasHbiaCGVAjia2ZBV6MWbNkY9CSo5PHMPMNiaj9sa3ibgzqOlDlQ/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6673267326732674" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJauFGWsw3PLMiaeiaSroUQib5xP6mH80COpkNeznsPAIiaIFZ5IRiaefj9BibJQoOTxrDHMZcU9jqG204Sg/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""></p><p><img data-ratio="0.6653465346534654" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJauFGWsw3PLMiaeiaSroUQib5xSpwVl9XZic9LribdLN9hpTlfzMXmRc8Jia21nuenwnfk6mfncKORfeU6Q/640?wx_fmt=png" data-type="png" data-w=""></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">牧羊人不会说半点英语，司机的英语词汇也极其有限，指手画脚间，我们大概猜到这是一对兄弟，独自在山上放牧，尚未成家，山下那个热闹的“凤凰”离他们很遥远。</span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">太阳下山后，山风越来越猛，他们邀我们到屋里喝茶。炊烟升起的屋子和热茶是极大诱惑，但担心天黑山路难走，我们不得不辞别牧羊人，和这个美得不真实的世界。一路颠簸，回到山下那万家灯火，温暖而喧闹的人间。</span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"> </span></p><p style="padding: 0px; border-radius: 5px; text-align: center; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; min-height: 1.5em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-shadow: 0px 1px 1px rgb(69,117,58); background-color: rgb(86, 159, 8);"><span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 2em; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><strong>TIP</strong></span><span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 22px; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><strong>S</strong></span></p><p><strong style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"> </span></strong></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><strong><span style="font-family: 宋体;"><strong><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 4px 10px; outline: 0px; border-radius: 2em 1em 4em / 0.5em 3em; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; box-shadow: 4px 4px 2px rgb(165,165,165); background-color: rgb(0, 112, 192);"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 32px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">住宿</strong></span></strong></span></strong></span><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">：在马苏蕾的民居留宿，体验伊朗人生活。村里有多家民宅可以留宿，屋里没有床，睡在波斯地毯上，有足够温暖的床垫、被褥和取暖器，有热水淋浴，每人25-35万里亚尔。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><strong><span style="font-family: 宋体;"><strong style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: 宋体;"><strong><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 4px 10px; outline: 0px; border-radius: 2em 1em 4em / 0.5em 3em; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; box-shadow: 4px 4px 2px rgb(165,165,165); background-color: rgb(0, 112, 192);"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 32px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">交通</strong></span></strong></span></strong></span></strong></span><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">：从德黑兰搭班车到恩扎里，感受里海风情，再包车前往马苏蕾，包车费50万里亚尔，车程约2小时；也可以直接从德黑兰包车，车程约4小时。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><strong style="font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: 宋体;"><strong><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 4px 10px; outline: 0px; border-radius: 2em 1em 4em / 0.5em 3em; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; box-shadow: 4px 4px 2px rgb(165,165,165); background-color: rgb(0, 112, 192);"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 32px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">餐饮</strong></span></strong></span></strong>：跟伊朗其他地方一样，菜式以烧烤为主，茄子酱是先烤再蒸，带着烧烤的香味，非常赞。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"><strong><span style="font-family: 宋体;"><strong style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: 宋体;"><strong style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-family: 宋体;"><strong><strong><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 4px 10px; outline: 0px; border-radius: 2em 1em 4em / 0.5em 3em; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; box-shadow: 4px 4px 2px rgb(165,165,165); background-color: rgb(0, 112, 192);"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 32px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="font-family: 宋体;">货币</span></strong></span></strong></strong></span></strong></span></strong></span></strong></span><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;">：伊朗货币里亚尔的汇率波动很大，人民币1元相当于4000-5000里亚尔。</span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"><img data-ratio="0.6772277227722773" data-s="300,640" data-src="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/3vY40XztSJYtia3uKwDG8DeUtiaFvMJibwjLo49A1qdjiciamOZJusSCNlPZiaUA1WKaKaqgY5284v3GtFwmvHefV6VQ/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w=""><br /></span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 4px 10px; outline: 0px; border-radius: 2em 1em 4em / 0.5em 3em; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; box-shadow: 4px 4px 2px rgb(165,165,165); background-color: rgb(0, 112, 192);"><strong style="line-height: 32px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">延伸阅读</strong><strong style="line-height: 32px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;"><a href="http://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MjM5MzM1NjUwMg==&amp;mid=200029463&amp;idx=1&amp;sn=81ac38ecdcf68aa86c10d2ead434aba4&amp;scene=21#wechat_redirect" target="_blank" data_ue_src="http://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MjM5MzM1NjUwMg==&amp;mid=200029463&amp;idx=1&amp;sn=81ac38ecdcf68aa86c10d2ead434aba4&amp;scene=21#wechat_redirect">【伊朗】土豪， 上波斯国扫货去</a></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"></span><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; text-align: center; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; white-space: pre-wrap; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(127, 127, 127); font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">你都看到这里了，还不想转发给更多人知道吗？</span></p><p style="padding: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; white-space: pre-wrap; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(127, 127, 127); font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;" /></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; text-align: center; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; background-color: rgb(248, 247, 245);"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(227, 108, 9); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">如果你喜欢这篇文章</span></strong></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; text-align: center; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; background-color: rgb(248, 247, 245);"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(227, 108, 9); line-height: 20px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">请拉到<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; background-color: rgb(247, 150, 70);">页面最下方</span></strong></span></strong></span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 1.5em; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(227, 108, 9); line-height: 20px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">，戳红色</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 20px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; background-color: rgb(247, 150, 70);">赞赏</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(227, 108, 9); line-height: 20px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">按键，给我一点鼓励</span></strong></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; text-align: center; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; background-color: rgb(248, 247, 245);"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 20px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">在此一并感谢先前慷慨赞赏的亲们^_^</span></strong></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; min-height: 1em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; background-color: rgb(248, 247, 245);"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(227, 108, 9); font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 20px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><br /></span></strong></span></p><p style="padding: 3px 6px; border-radius: 3px; text-align: center; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 1.5em; font-family: tahoma, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: bold; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1.5em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; background-color: rgb(55, 173, 177);">关于骆仪</p><fieldset class="comment_quote" style="margin: 0px; padding: 5px; border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); border-image: none; text-align: center; line-height: 24px; font-family: 宋体; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-width: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><p style="padding: 0px; text-align: left; line-height: 1.5em; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; white-space: pre-wrap; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 32px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">Lonely Planet作者，持证潜水员，跟你分享她超过10年的背包旅行故事：从珠峰到深海，从撒哈拉沙漠到巴以隔离墙，从零下35度雪国到40度火炉……</strong></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 32px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></strong></strong></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; text-align: left; line-height: 1.5em; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; white-space: pre-wrap; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1.5em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">微信公众号</strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">：</strong><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); font-family: InaiMathi; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">骆仪 luoyi_gz</span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></span></strong></span></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; text-align: left; line-height: 1.5em; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; white-space: pre-wrap; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1.5em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">新浪微博：</span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></strong></span><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">@骆小仪 weibo.com/luoyigz</span></strong></span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></span></strong></span></strong></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; text-align: left; line-height: 1.5em; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; white-space: pre-wrap; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1.5em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">知乎专栏：</span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></span>深夜特急 zhuanlan.zhihu.com/luoyi</span></strong></span></strong><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></span></strong></span></strong></span></p><p style="padding: 0px; text-align: left; line-height: 1.5em; margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; white-space: pre-wrap; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; min-height: 1.5em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); font-family: InaiMathi; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); line-height: 19.6px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; line-height: 32px; font-family: 宋体; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(255, 0, 0); line-height: 24px; font-family: inherit; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">除注明外，全部图文均为骆仪原创，版权所有，未经授权，任何组织或个人不得转载或节选摘录；<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(49, 133, 155); font-family: inherit; font-size: 1em; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">当然欢迎转发分享到朋友圈</span></span></strong></strong></span></strong></span></strong></span></p></fieldset><p><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(227, 108, 9); line-height: 24px; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">戳</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; background-color: rgb(227, 108, 9);">写评论</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: rgb(227, 108, 9); line-height: 24px; font-size: 14px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word !important; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;">发表高见</span><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p></p>