Snacks and the City: Food & Drink Gossip in Beijing
By Noelle Mateer
With news of the Donghuamen Night Market closing, we mark the end of an era. Some Beijingers have bemoaned the loss of the once-iconic snack street for its stalls full of deep-fried creepy crawlies; while others celebrated its removal, likely for its stalls full of deep-fried creepy crawlies. Personally, I have no feelings either way, except to say that I’m fresh out of ironic photo ops to send xenophobic relatives when they ask if China is “crazy.”
So goes Beijing’s drinking-and-dining scene. One minute, a place is an institution. The next, its shutting down. Last month saw several shut-downs, the most gossip-inducing being Cheers’ Yashow location (pictured above). The newly, shittily renovated Yashow is a dump, for sure – but we thought Cheers was one of only a couple worthwhile spots in the whole place. Maybe it was too fun and interesting for Sanlitun’s most depressingly boring mall? Lord knows. (More specifically, land-lord knows. Rumors swirled about eviction.)
We’ve heard word that Mado Bar on Baochao Hutong will soon shut its doors too. But there is also, of course, the much more pleasant business of restaurants updating their menus for the summer. Bottega, our favorite spot for traditional Napoli-style pizza, has a new lunch set, about which we can only say: damn, that gnocchi. Modernista also a new menu, full of seafood for this season that is theoretically beachy, but in practice hellishly hot. Fish helps.
Afternoon tea at TRB Bites.
Finally, TRB Bites has launched its afternoon tea, and it’s as indulgent as anything you’d expect from the winning TRB group. With options like these – who needs fried tarantulas? I certainly don’t.
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