The Beijing Kitchen Serves Dim Sum to Make You Go 'Damn, Son’
When we tell you a restaurant is traditional, what comes to mind? No, really, think about it. When you think ‘traditional Beijing restaurant,’ do you picture an imperial banquet hall? A simple hutong kitchen? Maybe you think of something specific, like Da Dong or your local noodle house. Bottom line is, there are many longstanding traditions when it comes to Chinese dining. And the most lucrative of those traditions is, for the time being, the upscale mall restaurant.
Some might say that sprawling shopping malls have more relevance to modern Beijing culture than, say, hutongs. Dawang Lu’s SKP Mall is a glimmering example of modernity and all its glitz, consumerism and RMB5,000 tote bags. And it is here, after taking escalator-upon-escalator past Louis Vuitton outlets and their compatriots, that we find The Beijing Kitchen – the epitome of moneyed fast-casual on SKP’s nearly windowless sixth floor.
Such settings aren’t particularly inspiring for the palate. Plus The Beijing Kitchen follows a template of white lights and rectangular tables in an unimaginative grid layout. But here comes the plot twist: This place has a soul. For here, the longstanding tradition of restaurateurs cashing in on luxury-good shoppers comes second to the hallowed culture of dim sum.
At its best, a dim sum meal will leave you shining. Full but not stuffed. Buzzed but not jittery. The Beijing Kitchen does just this – at surprisingly good value. For this, thank “celebrity chef” Ku Chi Fai, who is making his dim sum classics accessible in a city of otherwise pricey Cantonese joints. (We’re not sure if cooking at a 5-star hotel for a decade grants you “celebrity” status, but hey – the man makes good food.)
Because you deserve a running commentary, reader, let us now walk you through this panoply of treats. The black truffle streamed buns (RMB33) provide all the joy of truffle plus all the joy of steamed buns. The honey roasted cha shao pork (RMB76) is light and sweet. The best of the small dishes is the soup-stuffed dumpling (RMB39), aka the largest xiaolongbao we’ve ever seen, which contains a bowl’s worth of a lobster-and-shrimp soup that would taste outstanding even without the photogenic dumpling skin.
Dinner mains – also available at lunchtime – impress equally. We slurp up a jiggly custard topped with fresh shrimp and cubes of foie gras. Our absolute favorite, the so-tender-you’ll-cut-it-with-your-chopsticks fish filet (RMB212), comes smothered in thinly sliced almonds – a dish alone worth the trip to SKP. The daily soup (RMB58) is our least favorite, but hey – you dim sum, you lose sum.
Ultimately, we enjoy seeing Cantonese fare bust out of hotel restaurants and gear itself to the hearts and wallets of the people. (Although not too much for the people – there are private dining rooms.) A brunch here is guaranteed to prepare you for tackling the day – even if all you’ll want to tackle are the hordes of shoppers outside.
6F, SKP Mall, 87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路87号华贸中心新光天地6层（6530 7965）
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