Bar Review: Moonshine

By Noelle Mateer

Sanlitun’s speakeasy obsession makes us uneasy. Don’t get us wrong: We love the heady brown drinks they tend to serve, especially given our documented feminist resentment of places that only serve our female staff members cocktails that are ‘good for ladies.’ We just don’t love the stiff formality that sometimes comes with them.

Moonshine, the newest Sanlitun speakeasy, is indeed up-market and radiating prohibition-era chic. But there’s good news: the only thing stiff about this place is its drinks.

“We’re not a speakeasy, we’re a speak loudly,” says one of the bartenders with a smug grin, as if she hears our thoughts.

OK, people aren’t speaking that loudly. In fact, for the most part, vibes at Moonshine are a tad hushed. It’s the kind of place where well-dressed types gather after a long day (at their highly-paid jobs) to chat quietly over whiskeys on the lounge’s black leather couches. You know, typical Sanlitun stuff.

But the serious atmosphere is fitting of the drinks, which are the most serious business of all. Although the signature cocktail menu is a several-page affair, highly trained bartenders are on hand to help narrow it down. A friend who wants something sweet and floral is recommended the fantastic Hawthorne Lady (RMB100) – made with hawthorns preserved in massive mason jars displayed on the bar.

Meanwhile, we’re unintentionally giving the bartender a hard time. When he asks our favorite flavors, we say we like drinks that are both sweet and strong. Then on second thought, we say maybe bitter. Or, wait – no! – totally sour. All of these contradicting flavors are what we describe as our favorites. Have at it, bartender! We are your bar-reviewing nightmare.

He handles it deftly. The Negroni with lime (RMB80) is genuinely one of the best cocktails we’ve had in a while. And as That’s Beijing’s official bar-reviewing nightmares, we try the odd cocktail. So trust us.

Granted, the bartending expertise at Moonshine – as well as its leather-heavy decor – comes at a price. Expect to pay between RMB100-120 for a signature cocktail. Sanlitun has many places charging these prices, but Moonshine stands above the rest in terms of quality, atmosphere and service.

Altogether, it proves a point: Just because a cocktail costs a lot doesn’t mean it’s not a great deal.

Daily 7pm-2am; 3F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu 那里花园三里屯北路81号 (5208-6057)

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