Time Out Beijing's ultimate guide to the Great Wall

All you need to know, from choosing your section to getting there

It’s China’s best known monument, one of the seven wonders of the modern world and – biased as we may be – bloody great; there’s quite simply no other structure that matches the staggering scale and ambition of the Great Wall of China.

Along with the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace and the Temple of Heaven, the Great Wall of China is one of the attractions that top nearly every visitor’s Beijing bucket list. However, given the whole host of different sections with different qualities and defining features, choosing which one to start with – or which to visit next – can be a difficult decision.

We’ve rounded up best bits of the Great Wall of China around Beijing and what it is that makes them great, with a few history lessons and trivia tidbits chucked in along the way, as well as the lowdown on transport and tickets. We also asked our friends at Beijing Hikers for their expert opinion on each section and its hiking potential.

However long you have here and however wild you want to go, there’s a bit of wall for everyone, so get out there and get climbing! 

Badaling

By far the most visited section of the Great Wall of China

A great starting point with excellent transport links and picture-perfect restoration. It’s the quick and convenient, bucket list-ticking experience – just choose your day wisely.

What's the story?

By far the most visited section of the Great Wall, Badaling dates back to 1504, when it was built to serve as protection for the newly established Ming dynasty capital, Beijing. After years of rough and tumble, it became the first length to be restored and opened to the public in 1957, though years of further ‘preservation’ since have seen it gain a bit of a bad reputation among the purists.

True, all that it now protects is a strip of KFCs, Starbucks and souvenir bonanzas stationed at its footings, but millions of yearly visitors can’t be entirely wrong: there are still many good reasons to take a trip out here.

Why choose this section?

Badaling’s proximity to the city centre and excellent transport links (including direct buses and even a train line) make it a great choice for those with limited time; if timed correctly, you can visit in half a day and still make it back in time for an afternoon’s exploring in the city.

It’s also extremely photogenic: they may say it’s Disneyfied, but once you’ve passed the tourist fanfare downstairs and topped the highest of the 19 watchtowers – 1,015 metres up on high – the sight of the Wall winding across the mountains is an undeniably impressive one. The crowds can only add to it.

Fun fact Badaling is the go-to Great Wall show pony for state visits, with world leaders as diverse as Nelson Mandela, George W Bush and Queen Elizabeth II all having previously visited.

Be warned During public holidays and temperate weekends, Badaling can become immensely crowded, with rush-hour traffic to and from the Wall equally congested; best advice is to consider a different section at such times, save a sardine-like experience.

Hikers say ‘For a good hike, drive out to Badaling... and then keep on driving. Badaling is a fully repaired section, and entry and exit from the wall is controlled rather strictly. But beyond the boundary of the park area the wall keeps going up into the mountains, and there are some great hikes to do out that way.’

Distance from city 70km

Shuiguan

The 'Water Pass' is now waterless, but a pleasant and convenient Wall trip

Although situated just a few kilometres to the southeast of Badaling, the well-restored Shuiguan manages to remain uncrowded. While it may lack the length and overall grandeur of its neighbours, its accessibility from the city make it a great choice for those pushed for time.

What’s the story?

Translating to ‘Water Pass’, Shuiguan’s name comes from the stream that used to flow beneath the Zhengguan Arrow Tower, the section’s centrepiece which sits at the bottom of a steep-sided valley, now flanked by some lofty portions of wall known for the ‘V’ shape they form.

Given its proximity to the capital, it used to serve as an important final barrier, in an area that would have already proven geographically intimidating enough, with its steep climbs making it ideal for archers shooting down from on high.

Shuiguan is along the section of wall built under the direction of General Qi Jiguang in the early Ming dynasty (1368-1644); it lay untouched until the late ‘80s, when it underwent several years of refurbishment before reopening to the public in 1995.

Why choose this section?

Put simply, Shuiguan is close to Beijing, (relatively) uncrowded, and picture-perfect restored – three qualities that many people look for in a quick Great Wall fix.

Although steep in places, it’s fitted with handrails throughout to keep you steady, and still offers some impressive mountain scenery once you reach the peaks. Currently, around 4km of wall is accessible from the tourist centre, taking in nine towers along the way – it’s not the longest, but it’s a pleasant little leg-stretcher.

Fun fact Of all the sections going, this was the one that Michael Jordan was taken to on a visit to China in 2004. He had a great time.

Be warned Although its visitors are far fewer, Shuiguan is en route to Badaling, so a trip out here can also be hampered by traffic at peak times, most notably during the week-long National Day Holiday in the first week of October.

Distance from the city 63km

Jinshanling

Part-restored, part-wild. One of the Great Wall's most popular hiking spots

We’re not in Beijing anymore, Toto, we’re in neighbouring Hebei province at the starting point of one of the Great Wall’s most popular hikes. Part-restored, part-wild, this section offers stellar views and an unmatched range of architectural features on an accessible hike, all away from the capital’s crowds and – fingers crossed – its smog.

What’s the story?

Initially constructed during the late 14th century and the early years of Ming, it was two centuries later that the Great Wall here at Jinshanling gained a magnificence that is still wonderfully preserved today, thanks to some tasteful restoration.

Between 1567 and 1586, celebrated Ming dynasty general Qi Jiguang oversaw the reinforcing of defences from Juyongguan all the way to the eastern coastal extremity of Shanhaiguan, emphasising the importance of strong and plentiful watchtowers; more than 1,000 were constructed, with 67 of them densely dotted along Jinshanling’s 10.5 kilometre length.

As China opened up to the world in the ‘80s and tourist traffic (both domestic and international) began to boom, Jinshanling was just one of the sections to undergo restoration, and fortunately its treatment feels more like preservation than replication. As it finds itself on the popular Gubeikou-Simatai hiking axis, wild wall is available in both directions beyond the limits of the park area.

Why choose this section?

Besides its offering of both restored and wild wall, Jinshanling shows off an impressive collection of watchtowers, fitted with an array of defences and distinctive architectural features not seen at other Great Wall sections.

Over the centuries, its ambitious design has gained it plenty of admirers, and it has long been regarded as perhaps the finest example of Great Wall architecture; an oft-quoted adage says that 'Wanli Changcheng Jinshan duxiu' (万里长城金山独秀) – ‘Of all the Great Wall built during the Wanli Emperor’s reign, Jinshanling stands out’.

From the front (west) gate, the top of the wall is accessible by cable car (40 RMB, one way).

Fun fact In 1992, Taiwanese stuntman Blackie ‘The Flying Man of Asia’ Ko successfully pulled off a motorbike jump over the Great Wall here at Jinshanling.

Be warned If you choose to hike towards Simatai, be aware that when you eventually reach the end of what is classed as Jinshanling, you will arrive at a guarded barrier where you will need to leave the wall; this section is controlled by the Gubei Water Town – or held hostage, its detractors may say – so you will need to head down to purchase your ticket. It’s only 40RMB, but you may need to book in advance (up to ten days in advance; passport number required).

Hikers say ‘Jinshanling is postcard-perfect restored Great Wall, and its distance from the city means that it’s usually nice and quiet. Within the park area you can do a 6km hike on the wall, starting from either of the ticket offices. For a proper hike, though, walk out the west end of the park and find your way over to Gubeikou.’

Distance from the city 148km

Gubeikou

Beautifully unrestored with well-trodden paths and reasonable gradients

One of the oldest sections of the Great Wall, Gubeikou is beautifully unrestored, but with more moderate gradients, clearer paths and less potential peril than some of its counterparts, making it a great choice for self-guided wild wall hikes.

What’s the story?

Gubeikou dates all the way back to 555 and the Northern Qi dynasty, though remnants of that era are largely lost. What you’ll see before you, like most of the Great Wall around Beijing, was constructed during the Ming dynasty (between 1368 and 1657 to be precise).

Hugely important strategically, over 130 battles were fought before this section and its surrounding region, as it sought to protect the capital from returning Mongols. As the story goes, it failed to so on more than one occasion, including in 1550, when Mongol leader Altan Khan and his forces broke through, rode to Beijing, set a few outer suburbs on fire then headed back to the exits. It was rebuilt in the aftermath, and not much has been touched since.

Why choose this section?

Although it’s a bit of a ride away from Beijing proper, Gubeikou is a rewarding trip for those looking for an authentic and wild hiking experience. The section is in fact divided into two parts by a river that runs through Gubeikou town; the Wohushan (Crouching Tiger Mountain) portion to the west provides a steeper and more challenging hike, while the eastern Panlongshan has a milder and clearer path that eventually begins to ramp up a few kilometres on.

Heading further east, it joins the much more challenging Jinshanling and, in the distance, Simatai, creating a route as long as 40 kilometres that is popular for extended expeditions, two-day (or more) hikes and camping trips.

Fun fact Given the former military importance of this stretch, you’ll find some of the most interesting and imposing watchtowers around along its length, including Panlongshan’s 24-Eyed Tower – a three-storey whopper with an impressive 24 windows.

Be warned While not as dangerous or steep as Jiankou, for example, Gubeikou still has its moments, and is by no means a walk in the park; come prepared, wear appropriate clothing and footwear and take care when walking on the often dodgy terrain.

Hikers say ‘The Great Wall at Gubeikou doesn’t have a lot of steep climbs up or down, and it’s a good spot for a relatively easy walk. The wall here is mostly unrestored, with just a little repair work done to stop parts of it collapsing.’

Distance from the city 145km

Hit '阅读原文' to get our lowdown on the rest of the 10 sections on our site, including Mutianyu and Huangyaguan.

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