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Jackies Beer Nest, In It For The Long Haul

ShanghaiWOWeng 2018-11-28



As 2016 comes to an end, China looks on track to beat last year’s record of 25 billion liters of beer consumed. And while most of that was probably in the form of watery, cat-piss-eque cans of Snow, Suntory or what have you, a lot of it was craft beer.




If you’re about to let out a long groan over another ‘craft beer revolution’ story, we’re with you. In fact, if that were the case, we’d probably be groaning even louder than you since we’d have to write the god-damned thing. The only thing more saturated than the craft market here lately, is the promotional explosion for craft beer breweries, articles about the beer revolution in China or the ‘craft boom’ taking place.

 


You might be surprised to find that Jackie’s Beer Nest, a non-descript, 22 square-meter bar in Huangpu, is also groaning over the hype. This little gem has somehow managed to be a tiny eye of the bombastic craft beer typhoon.  There are no gimmicks here, no happy hours, social media blitzes, flyers, finger-foods or quiz nights. Every day from 5-10pm, Jackie’s Beer Nest opens their door and offers 30 kinds of expertly made craft beer on tap for RMB 60 a glass, as well as a selection of high quality bottles.

 


The owner is Jackie; a 40-year old Xinjiang native who arrived in Shanghai over 20 years ago to fulfill some higher calling from the beer gods (his words). Jackie’s day job (yes he has a day job), is a craft beer purchaser for Kingfoods, a job title he’s had since 2007.

 

 

Kingfoods was one of the first companies that brought American craft beer to China. Names like Brooklyn Lager, North Coast, and Acme all arrived here first through them. But bars in Shanghai were initially reluctant to carry craft beer, as many owners were unconvinced the higher costs were worth it.



So Jackie took the only logical step: he opened his own little tasting room in 2007 and called it Jackie’s Beer Nest.

 

“For the first few years it was pretty slow, 2011 it bumped up a little bit. Then in 2012 it began booming, craft beer was getting into places all over China, all these craft beer associations, and clubs started popping up”


 

And he’s right, from 2010 to 2015, craft beer in China grew in market share by 23 percent. That sort of growth made lots of new people suddenly interested in Jackie’s business. He’s had hundred of offers, propositions and far-flung, alcohol-induced business pitches. No matter how appealing, he’s turned them all down. “Even if I decided to work with an investor and open 100 stores, then what would I do? I would want to just be here doing the same thing I’m doing right now in the store, so what’s the point?”

 


 

Jackie did briefly flirt with expansion in 2014 when he and his wife opened another Jackie’s in Pudong. Business was good, but they got tired of commuting, and Jackie’s Puxi customers were bummed not to see him around as often. That, probably more so than his emphasis on beer quality, is what separates him from so many other watering holes around the city. He’s usually the one serving you your beer and he’s always doing it with a smile and something interesting to say.

 


And as the craft scene has grown, he’s noticed a huge demographic change in those customers. “the first three years here, 90% of my customers were western, now, 9 years later, it’s probably 95% local Chinese.” A lot of that may have to do with expats constantly arriving and leaving the city, but it also says a lot about craft’s popularity with Chinese.  

 


Those Chinese customers have more options than ever. Buying alcohol online is easy, and has a selection that no bottle shop could match. Luckily for Jackie, the experience of hanging out at a cozy neighborhood haunt can’t be bought on Alibaba, nor could a cold pint of draft beer fresh from the tap (not yet at least).  

 


Jackie probably doesn’t have to worry about losing business to online sales, but he does worry about the shop’s location. He’s close enough to Xintiandi to feel the burn of rising rent costs as the poshy area has slipped southward.


Whatever the future holds for this little neighborhood delight, Jackie isn’t too concerned about the outside noise. He knows there will be booms and busts, but as long as he can make good relationships built around great beers and good times, what else in the world could you want?


Address: 76 Zhaozhou Lu

Tel: 138 1650 2260

Hours: Daily, 5-10pm


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