Newly Opened Bordertown for a Taste of the Southwest
Ken Walker, of Bubba’s BBQ fame, has taken his Mexican restaurant, Jalapeño and broadened the menu to trace the border from Southern California all the way to South Texas. Representing SoCal style are fish tacos, ceviche and burrito bowls. New Mexico and Arizona cuisines bring a heavy emphasis on the flavorful yet mild green chili. Red sauce, extra spice and BBQ meats come courtesy of Tex-Mex cooking. More unique taco choices such as the Seoul Sister and fried avocado varieties are the result of Chef Gavin McAlee (formerly of Jalapeño and Palmetto) riffing on the “crazy taco” craze that is happening in places like Los Angeles and Austin.
Under the “Star Starters” section of the menu expect classic dishes such as chicken flautas and queso. The former have a nice crisp exterior and a juicy, flavor-packed chicken and green chili filling. The queso fresco on this and all other dishes is indeed “fresco” as Chef Gavin makes it daily from scratch. Queso dip is traditionally made with Velveeta that is hard to source here so they use a combination of cheddar and American cheese with milk and green chili. It manages to be as creamy as Velveeta versions. Choose your queso plain or with either: refried beans, chorizo, guacamole or spicy ground beef (RMB 48). A traditional Baja ceviche is served with chips and fried plantain chips.
Chips with Salsa (RMB 18) and a variety of queso (RMB 48)
Baja ceviche (RMB 68) combines Artic shrimp, baby squid and red fish with chili, cilantro and lime
The classic tacos are well priced at RMB 25 per taco (additional charge of RMB 20 to add rice and beans). Green chili carnitas con queso and Baja fish (both RMB 35) are both solid options. I loved the spicy beef barbacoa con queso (RMB 35) with roja salsa, shredded cabbage, cilantro, onion and pickled jalapeño because it reminded this SoCal native the most of home.
Green chili carnitas con queso taco
Baja fish taco topped with roasted tomato salsa, pico de gallo, cabbage, marinated onions and pickled jalapeño
Red sauce topped spicy beef barbacoa taco
You don’t see open-faced enchiladas much around these parts, and Bordertown’s are the best thing ever. The pork is so nice and juicy and we like ours with more of their stellar verde sauce. We couldn’t finish ours, due to eating so many other things, but they reheat wonderfully as leftovers. Top it with an egg, chuck it in the oven and win at life.
Bordertown Open Face Enchiladas (RMB 88) is served with rice and beans
The burrito bowls are good for a light (lighter) meal and the vegetarian power bowl (RMB 68) is a grain and vegetable-packed delight. Vegetarians will be happy to hear that the beans are devoid of meat products. The kale and red bean stew is the hearty, meatless star of this dish. Meat eaters can choose meat options for any bowl.
Power bowl with mixed grains, veg 42 25101 42 10763 0 0 4367 0 0:00:05 0:00:02 0:00:03 4366etarian beans, kale red bean stew, spicy carrots, avocado, jalapeño, cabbage and pico de gallo
It wouldn’t be Mexican food without margaritas and Ken has been tinkering with his own bitters. The citrus bitters are mixed into the Olmeca Tequila margaritas (RMB 50) and the stellar mescal (RMB 80) version. Go from 4-8pm daily for buy one get one deals. Watch out for additions to the in-progress cocktail list with more of the interesting bitters being used (celery cucumber in gin drinks, pumpkin in old fashioneds, etc.).
Bordertown’s well stocked bar
Play a round of Golden Tee while you wait for your food
Bordertown is set to give a lot of American expats a nostalgic taste of home while introducing others to these flavors. While utmost authenticity is not the goal, good quality food is and they accomplish that. Touches such as house-made sauces (we die for the fermented pumpkin one), bitters and cheese show that they take what they do seriously. Go for happy hour and stay for the food. We think you will be back.
Bordertown
Address: 393 Weihai Lu (near Shimen Yi Lu)
Tel: 021 5309 9070
Hours: Daily, 11am to 11pm
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