New Opening: A Culinary Adventure With Bird + Bitter
When serial F&B entrepreneur Camden Hauge decides to get her hand involved in something new, Shanghai notices. Her notable list includes Egg, FEAST Food Festival, Chef’s Table, Shanghai Supperclub, and numerous other food-related pop-ups and projects around Shanghai. And with the recent opening of her two-part venue on Wuyuan Lu, Bird + Bitter, we just couldn’t help ourselves but to go check it out.
Both venues are designed similarly, with a modern and minimalist approach, clean lines, and classic décor that seats roughly 20 patrons each. The lights are brighter on the Bird side, which is excellent for food photography, but a lot less intimate. Just make sure you find your dinner date attractive, since you’ll be seeing every detail of his or her face with more clarity than you would at your standard candle-lit dinner affair. Bitter also wins in the seating department with comfortable wicker chairs and booths rather than the wooden stools used at Bird, which are made for someone with a butt the size of a 10-year-old.
So what’s the difference between these two venues, and why are they split in the first place? Well, Bitter is all about the beverages, no matter the time of day. Stop by on a sunny afternoon for some coffee and light snacks, or swing by in the evening for a cheeky cocktail. Bird, on the other hand, is a contemporary kitchen and wine bar that feels like it could be plopped into the heart of San Francisco and fit right in. Both venues feature small menus (think 10-12 items each) that rotate roughly every 3-4 weeks. You can choose to stop at just one of the venues or visit both for a cocktail, dining, and wine experience that provide a change of scenery without the hassle of getting Didi involved.
Start out your Bird + Bitter culinary adventure with a pre-dinner cocktail at Bitter. With a tip of the hat to Italian liquors, Bitter’s cocktail menu features 10 rotating, down-to-earth drinks that focus on sprucing up the classics. The goal here is simplicity: “There’s a reason they are the classics,” says Warren Pang, Bitter’s co-partner and Head Bartender (as well as one of China’s most awarded bartenders and a Beijing serial-bar-preneur).
The Negroni Australiano (RMB 80) has that lingering bitterness from the Campari, but as a result of a quick beetroot infusion of the Rosso, it has a richer sweetness to it. The Citadelle Gin adds a balancing touch of citrus. Unfortunately, that bit of thyme flavor gets lost behind the beetroot, yet makes for a nice garnish to complement the gorgeous ruby red color of the drink.
For a sensory illusion, dabble in the Calvados Sidecar (RMB 80). It smells like apple crumble, but tastes like lemon pie without the cloying sweetness. With a hint of coffee and a dusting on the rim of cinnamon and brown sugar, you’ll find yourself at the bottom of the glass of this exotic beverage before you know it.
For something on the sweeter side, My Cherry Amour (RMB 80) is a souped-up Martinez, using sour cherry gin that is oh-so smooth. It’s not as punchy as an everyday Martinez, but it also isn’t too sour. Overall, the drinks are strong, but in a good way. You don’t taste the booze, but after just a few sips, your worries from the week are already fading into oblivion.
In the upcoming weeks, Bitter hopes to start offering an extended bar snack list just in time for the summer rush. At the moment, they do offer some simple snacks, but we are excited to see how it expands.
After a cocktail or two, it's time to indulge in some delicious treats. Hop over next door to Bird to satisfy that rumbling tummy. Around dinner time, even on a weekday, the place is bumping, so make a reservation in advance.
Similar to Bitter, the menu at Bird consists of a one-page printout and a few chalkboard specials. Portions are on the small side, like tasting plates, so the whole meal reminds me of omakase in Japan. The difference, however, is that the chef doesn’t pick each dish for you; he just narrows it down to the best possible choices through the tight menu. Think modern fusion pop-up food where the chef creatively plays with seasonal ingredients.
Overall, portions are really delicate, so don’t arrive starving after work or you’ll be stopping by the avocado lady on the way home for a box of cereal. We suggest ordering 6-8 dishes total for two people, with at least two mains. We sampled a variety of dishes that may or may not be around by the time you go visit, but the clean flavors, contemporary presentation, and approachable cooking style is prevalent throughout all of their dishes. Each plate showcases 4-6 main ingredients so that the bold flavors can speak for themselves without being muddled by a laundry list of garnishes and spices.
Starting off with something light and fresh, the Lime-Cured Salmon, Fennel, Chive Oil and Sour Cream (RMB 98) has a bit of Thai inspiration. The thinly-sliced ceviche-esque salmon is pleasantly tart, and the dish is perfectly balanced with the creamy smoothness from the sour cream and the herby crunchiness from the fennel.
The Cauliflower, Onion, Miso, and Chive (RMB 68) is less about the cauliflower and more about the lick-up-every-last-drop of slowly roasted onion and miso paste purée at the bottom of the bowl. Creamy like loose mashed potatoes, we shamelessly slathered our cauliflower in it.
For a main, we sampled the Scallop, Cherry Tomatoes, and Uni (RMB 128). The dish was quite unassuming, with a thin spread of uni across the top of both scallops, and roasted tomatoes to compliment. While I do believe in the power of simplicity, I think this dish went a little too far down that route, so we were left wanting a bit more.
Finally, the Spiced Ricotta with Brioche (RMB 78) steals the show. The homemade ricotta is topped with dehydrated fruits, pistachios, honey, and in-house made pine nut praline. They dehydrate the fruits daily based on what looks best at the market, so you know you’re always getting the season’s freshest option. Our cold, creamy, and softly rich ricotta came topped with dehydrated apples. The crunchy, caramel-y praline is the ying to the ricotta’s thick whipped cream texture’s yang. Spread it on toasted brioche, or eat it by the spoonful; either way, you can’t go wrong.
As the weather continues to warm up, Bird plans to develop its rooftop and eventually offer seating with a view of Wuyuan Lu. This neighborhood gem is one that can be revisited over and over again for various occasions with alternating food options so you’ll always have something new to sample.
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