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1-Hour Train Getaways: Nanjing

Sophie Steiner ShanghaiWOWeng 2018-11-28


Since we all live in the expat haven that is Shanghai, Nanjing - or the old Southern Capital of China - easily gets overlooked. Don’t skip this city, assuming it’s the same as Shanghai and therefore doesn’t deserve a spot on your itinerary. Instead, this culturally-rich city provides the perfect balance of historical and religious sites, outdoor hiking, urban trekking, university town relaxing, and snacking. Pack your bags for an easy day trip or a chill weekend getaway exploring Nanjing!



Background


As the capital of Jiangsu province and the former capital of China during numerous dynasties, kingdoms, and republican governments from the 3rd century to 1949, Nanjing is the second largest city in the East China region. With a population of over 8 million people and a proximity to the sea, Nanjing in the last century has always been seen as Shanghai’s sidekick.



However, because of the many universities that are located there, the expat population in Nanjing is surprisingly large, so if you’re craving some Western food or a craft beer, Nanjing has got you covered. Loaded with historical sites, temples, food streets, and interesting museums, Nanjing is a great way to see another side of China.  



How to Get There


Traversing the 300+ kilometers to Nanjing from Shanghai can take anywhere from 1-2 hours, depending on which highspeed train you choose. Trains run daily, usually every 20-30 minutes, from Shanghai Railway Station and Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station to Nanjing Railway Station and Nanjing South Railway Station. High-speed train tickets range in price from RMB 95.5 to RMB 139.50, depending on your departure and arrival train station. Trains do run more frequently between Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station and Nanjing South Railway Station, so be sure to check the train schedule and book your tickets ahead of time on Ctrip, or, if you can read Chinese, on the 12306 train app. Once you arrive at Nanjing South Railway Station or Nanjing Railway Station, it’s very easy and convenient to get into the city using the expansive train system.


To Do


Whether you’re a history buff interested in museum hopping, a temple lover, a nature seeker, or an ancient architecture fanatic, Nanjing covers all the bases.


1. For food, history, and religious significance, visit the Confucius Temple (aka Fuzimiao). Originally constructed in 1034 during the Song Dynasty as a place to worship and consecrate Confucius, this temple has suffered repeated damage. The temple was most recently rebuilt in 1984 in the architectural style of the Ming and Qing dynasties, and the whole area has an ancient feel to it.



Take a pause in between your shopping and snacking to see the largest figure of Confucius in all of China as well as a collection of 38 vivid panels made from jade, gold, and silver that detail his life.



Now, the whole area around the temple, composed of the Dacheng Hall (RMB 30 entrance), temples, and winding alleys filled with tourist-focused eateries and trinket shops, is known as Confucius Temple. Wander the grounds that are built around the Qin Huai River, and make sure to snap the iconic Fuzimiao picture along Wende bridge.



2. Purple Mountain is located northeast of the city and houses the Ming Tombs, the Mausoleum of Sun Yat-Sen (RMB 40 entrance fee), and the Observatory. Set aside a few hours here to walk the tree-lined paths and visit these historically significant sights. Note that the Ming Tombs and the Mausoleum are located on a different part of the mountain from the Observatory, so you can either walk back down the mountain and over (which is easily 1-2 hours), or grab a cab.



3. Although emotionally heavy, a visit to the Memorial Hall of the Victims in the Nanjing Massacre by Japanese Invaders is really worth it.



This museum memorializes those that were killed in the Nanjing Massacre when the city fell to the Japanese on December 13, 1937. During the following 6-8 weeks, over 300,000 civilians were tortured, raped, and murdered. The museum is located in the Jiangdongmen area near a site where thousands of bodies were buried, known today as the “Pit of Ten Thousand Corpses.”



The museum is more experiential, composed of outdoor exhibits, sheltered skeletal remains of victims, and an exhibition hall of historical documents.



4. Laomendong feels like it was built hundreds of years ago, but you’ll be surprised to find out that most buildings were constructed recently. Also, every night from 7-8:30pm, you can witness the world’s largest 3D light show here depicting the history and revival of Southern Nanjing through a projection on the real Nanjing wall of the city.



The Laomendong area is a photographer's heaven, filled with ornate architecture, small ponds, gorgeous trees, and picturesque alleys.



There are many little shops and places to grab a snack throughout the winding streets, but overall, it does feel a bit deceiving knowing that it’s all fake.  



5. Nanjng is one of the only cities in China to retain its original city walls. Ming Dynasty Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang ordered the building of the wall in 1386 to protect Nanjing from invaders. Today, about 25 kilometers of the original 35 kilometers of wall remain intact and can be seen at different spots around the city.



To Eat


Despite being so close to Shanghai, there are numerous dishes and street snacks in Nanjing that greatly differ from those found in Shanghai. Also, being a distinct city with its own unique food culture, there are cult following street food snack vendors dotting the back alleys of this city that just can’t be duplicated. Make sure to bring your stretchy pants since you will easily satisfy your duck cravings, sample some duck blood tofu soup, and fill up on all the guotie dumplings you can stomach.



1. Despite being a bastardized version of a xiaolongbao, I will let it slide for the Duck Xiaolongbao (RMB 12 for three) at Nanjing Impressions Restaurant. These massive dumplings are at least three times the size of ones usually found in Shanghai, and they are stuffed with a meatball-sized portion of fatty duck meat and hearty broth.



Don’t skip the Jinling Roasted Duck (RMB 28 for ¼ duck), served in a rich broth that I could happily slurp by the spoonful.



2. Although a lot of the food found around Fuzimiao (the Confucius Temple) has been marked up with tourist prices, there are a few spots worth visiting. At 68 Dashibei Street, choose from over 12 dessert soup options of pear in a clay pot.



For a lightly sweet and healthy dessert, the pears are peeled and slowly roasted inside a clay pot along with various other ingredients that all serve as traditional Chinese medicine, such as goji berries, rosettes, and longan. These pears are perfect for a cool summer evening or a refreshing snack.



3. For a Nanjing treat that exists nowhere else in the world, stop by the Burger Queen. Ran by a boisterous local couple making their version of a burger, I guarantee this is unlike anything you’ve ever eaten before.



Instead of a bun, a fried egg is baked around the burger meat in the shape of a biscuit. The meat is seasoned with cumin, garlic powder, chili powder, and other Xinjiang spices, while the egg “bun” is fried until golden brown and crispy.



The wife runs the show, and her hard-ass, gruff personality can definitely be a bit off-putting. Stick with it and sit out the sometimes 30+ minute wait; I promise you’ll be happy you did.



4. I’m not the biggest fan of blood as an ingredient in anything, but Duck Blood Soup is a Nanjing specialty. Filled with duck blood cakes (with a texture like tofu), tofu, duck meat, and vermicelli noodles, this dish can be found at any Nanjing restaurant.



5. Lianhu Rice Cake Shop is a Muslim-ran food establishment in the Confucius Temple area, famous for their colorful desserts and Dumpling Red Bean Soup. This sweet red bean dessert soup is thick, gluey, and gelatinous, served with dozens of tapioca balls.



While many vendors in the area sell the same soup, the ever-present line at Lianhu is a surefire sign that they serve a version of this dish that’s a step above the rest. Make sure to snag an order of the Beef Guotie Potstickers (RMB 15 for five), some of the best in the city.


6. While you can find meigancaibing in Shanghai, the ones in Nanjing far surpass them. I like to think of meigancaibing as China’s version of a pizza, sans cheese.



A flatbread dough stuffed with dried vegetable and bits of pork is baked to a crisp in a tandoori oven, and then smothered in tangy, spicy chili sauce and served piping hot to a lucky patron. They are sold all over the city for about RMB 5; just look for a barrel oven.



Final Thoughts


Don’t overlook Nanjing, assuming that Shanghai’s got it all. Nanjing can easily surprise you with its interesting history, picturesque lake, numerous parks, and array of local delicacies. The winters get super cold, and the summers are blazing hot, so visit during the spring or fall, and make sure to take it at a relaxing pace to really dive into this city’s unique culture. 


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