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45-Year-Old Shengjian Shop Stays True to Old Shanghai Values

ShanghaiWOWeng 2018-11-30


On the narrow street of Yunnan Middle Road near Fuzhou Road and the famous dumpling restaurant Dahuchun stands a delicious shengjian shop called Shu Cai Ji that has been around for 45 years. The shengjian is a pan-fried bun stuffed with meat and juices; a Shanghai speciality that lies somewhere between the traditional and the reformed. Indulging in a couple of shengjian to go along with a veggie rice dish and bowl of beef soup has become a force of habit for many Shanghainese diners, and bears testament to the lasting impact that some old traditional shops have on their neighboring communities in ever-changing and constantly modernizing cities like Shanghai.



Shu Cai Ji offers a decent open space for you to watch their cooks fry your buns and prepare your veggie dish as you impatiently await the moment you can finally have a taste of their delicious treats. And even if you’re just passing by, the smell of their food is guaranteed to spark your curiosity!



There are three items that you absolutely must try here: the shengjian (生煎), veg and rice (菜饭), and beef soup (牛肉汤). There’s only one person at the cash register, next to which you will find a menu that consists mostly of all sorts of classic Shanghainese noodle and soup dishes. And despite having operated for more than 40 years, the price of their shengjian has only risen by RMB 3! You certainly can’t complain about the price here.



Walk up to the main front of the shop when your dishes are ready to be collected, but you might want to wait a bit longer to start eating them as they’re freshly made upon ordering and will be steaming hot.


It’s particularly refreshing to see the owner of the shop put the apron on in the kitchen and pass as a waiter when he brings your beef soup directly to your table, which he makes with all his heart and passion every single time.



The shengjian is a classic dish from Old Shanghai and the star of the show here at Shu Cai Ji. Those traditional buns are crispy at the bottom and filled with scalding soup, so you would be wise to take a small bite first and let the inside cool down before sipping the rest.



We then tried their plate of veggies and rice, the latter of which was cooked to a perfect balance between soft and hard. Their finely chopped vegetables, shiitake mushrooms and fresh meet are cooked in lard, but that doesn’t detract from their tasteful flavor. The man sitting across from us seemed to enjoy it a lot: he ate two whole portions!



If you plan on ordering some shengjian, you MUST pair them with a bowl of beef soup just like the local Shanghainese do it. It contains many chunks of beef which are all perfectly tender and chewy, and served in a rich curry soup with coriander on top. This will surely fill you up for days!



Customers are loyal and abundant - it is a very old shop after all. Our hearts melted when we saw an old lady pull her husband along for a meal out together, which speaks to the type of diners and atmosphere that Shu Cai Ji attracts.



The owner of the shop also has a cat that sneaks out looking for a bite to eat whenever hungry. Regulars have become used to seeing him wander around their tables, and will gladly take a short break from eating to reach down and pet him. An added benefit to an already-promising, culturally-rich food experience!


Shu Cai Ji (舒蔡记)


Where: 141 Yunnan Zhong Lu, near Beihai Lu, People’s Square area

Tel: 021-63608817

How much: RMB 15

When: Mon-Sun 7:30am-7:30pm


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