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New Opening: Rustic Playfulness at Oxalis

Sophie Steiner ShanghaiWOWeng 2018-11-28

Most of us were beyond sad to see Table No. 1 go; it was a Shanghai staple that had been a major part of the F&B scene long before the majority of us had even moved here. However, chef Jonas Noël is breathing new life into something we didn’t know needed it. With his contemporary French cuisine, uniquely rustic décor, and playful incorporation of back story and meaning into dishes (both the food and the ceramic platters they're served on), Oxalis is worth the trip down to the Cool Docks area.



Every little detail is meticulously planned and, with that, come the stories and meaning behind each aspect of the restaurant. Rather than using standard dishes, chef Jonas traveled all the way to Jingdezhen, a town in central China where the most authentic Chinese pottery is made, to meet with artisans and design unique tableware that only exists at Oxalis.


 

Similarly, the leather placemats come in four varieties that each represent a different story; the reasoning behind the name of the restaurant and chef Jonas’ background (depicted in a Lord of the Rings style map) to the story behind the imported knives from France on each table to the Waterhouse’s background. It’s all there for those willing to pay attention to the details.



The dinner menu is divided into three sections - bites, small, and shared servings - based on your appetite and the size of your party. If you are only two people, you may want to skip the shared dishes as they're designed for 2-3 people at least. Instead, shoot for a combination of 4-6 small servings, desserts and bites.


 

Start your meal off with the Chickpea Frie bites (RMB 48 per piece). The deep fried chickpea cake is a popular snack in southern France and, at Oxalis, they fill it with savory lemon curd and top it with a luscious scallop tartar - made extra creamy with the addition of mashed chickpea. The dish is a fun mix of hot and cold, sweet and salty, and crispy and fluffy.


 

The Dauphine Potato (RMB 78 / piece) is stunning; I could honestly stare at it all day with its glistening beads of dark emerald green Yunnan caviar garnishing a perfectly round sphere of fried potato. This bite is stuffed with mashed potato and a cooling homemade dill sour cream that balances the briny pop of the roe. However, there was less going on in this bite, both flavor and texture-wise so if you’re a baller on a budget and have to only choose one, go for the Chickpea Frie instead.


 

Despite its unpronounceable name (trust me, I tried), the Flammekueche (RMB 78) is an all-round crowd pleaser. This flatbread pizza-esque dish could remind anyone of home, but for chef Jonas, this truly is one of his hometown’s specialties. In Alsace, near Germany, you can find Flammekueche in homes and restaurants alike and, within a bite, you will be wondering why it hasn’t spread worldwide yet. The thin pastry-like bread dough is covered in sour cream, rich yogurt, crispy onions, sweet pancetta-like bacon and childhood memories of joy.



Moving along to the small servings section of the menu, there’s a reason that the Mackerel (RMB 78) is at the top of the list. After being braised in sugar and salt water, followed by a vinegar, oil, and spice “escabeche bath” that lightly cooks the fish and takes away that signature fishy mackerel taste, the fish is lightly torched and served with an herb salad and crunchy pickled white and purple cauliflower. Topped with micro cilantro and lemon peel brined in salt, the dish is then given a pop a color table-side with the addition of a fresh, bright green yogurt sauce that is reminiscent of Indian saag. The distinct mackerel taste is still present in each tender bite, but the vinegar and spices make the entire dish delicately light. 



Beef tartare seems to be on every menu in the city at the moment, yet Oxalis still finds a way to make theirs unique and memorable. The Aussie Angus Beef (RMB 168) is made with hand cut M3 Australian Beef. Instead of using mayonnaise, the chef sets an oxtail broth into a jelly and mixes it with Laphroig 10 year and lemon oil. The whole dish is topped with crunchy Indian almonds and salty, popping Yunnan caviar for a distinct texture contrast. Cleverly, the dish is sprinkled with heart-shaped leafy Oxalis.


 

The Royale N. 2 Oysters (RMB 138) come out looking like a spinach dish but, like hunting for treasure, you get to search for the creamiest, fattest oysters hidden underneath. Imported from David Herve, an oyster farmer in France, these oyster are raised for four years. The oysters are unique in their plumpness because Herve often shaves the perimeter of the shell, so the oysters are forced to grow thicker in the tight space rather than longer and thinner like most other oysters. Enjoy them on their own, or dip them inthe creamy curry hollandaise, either way, they’re sinfully scrumptious.


 

The highlight of the meal is the Atlantic Halibut (RMB 128), which is so meaty and delicate that you can’t believe you’re eating fish. The halibut is broiled and topped with a meticulously measured-to-size piece of breadcrumb and parmesan crust. Surrounded by a forest of pea shoots, snow peas, sugar snap peas, haricovertes, baby radish, croutons, and micro greens, I found myself licking the plate clean of its lemon butter sauce, refusing to let even the tiniest drop or smallest morsel go to waste.



For a final bite of meaty perfection, the M9 Rangers Valley Wagyu Steak (RMB 168) is one of the most expertly cooked steaks you can find in the city. This intercostal cut (consisting of lean tissue that lies between the rib bones) is served beautifully pink in the center, yet charred on the outside; it could convert even the most devout vegetarian. The dish is served with artichoke three ways - pureéd, char-grilled, and fried into crisps, as well as a tomato puree béarnaise sauce.


 

If given the option, I will almost always opt for another dish over dessert, but I’m glad I didn’t have to choose. The Floating Island (RMB 68) is made of baked whipped egg yolk served on a vanilla crème angleis sauce with liquid caramel sauce, hazelnuts and a caramelized sugar crisp. Light, fluffy, crunchy, crispy, and creamy, this dessert really has it going on.

 

If you’re unable to make it to Oxalis for dinner, they do offer an express lunch option with a smaller menu for RMB 188 + 10% service charge for three courses or RMB 258 + 10% service charge for four courses.


Oxalis

Address: The Waterhouse Hotel, The Cool Docks, 1F, 1-3 Maojiayuan Lu, near Zhongshan Nan Lu

Tel: 6080 2918

Hours: Daily. Lunch, 12pm-2:30pm; Dinner, 6pm-10pm






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