1-Hour Train Getaways: Zhujiajiao's Lavender Oasis
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Zhujiajiao, also known as the Venice of Shanghai, is one of the oldest towns in China, with a history dating back to the Neolithic Age (770 BC-221 BC). The town was formed during the Song and Yuan dynasties, and, by the Ming Dynasty, it was established as a thriving market town and trading center for the entire area.
Flickr User: Fabio Anchilli
At first, Zhujiajiao became a well-known collection and distribution center for agricultural products, but because of its convenient location and natural environment, many merchants gathered here to develop the cloth industry and solidify the town’s status a major hub south of the Yangtze River.
How to Get There
Zhujiajiao is located about 48 kilometers from downtown Shanghai. To get there, take metro Line 2 from People’s Square Park station towards East Xujing. At Hongqiao Railway station, transfer to Line 17 towards Oriental Land. Get off at the penultimate stop: Zhujiajiao. This train journey only takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes and will set you back a mere RMB 8.
Flickr User: lwtt93
Once you arrive at Zhujiajiao station, take Exit 1 across the bridge and down the stairs. From there, it’s a little less than a 1 kilometer walk (or MoBike ride if you prefer) to Zhujiajiao ancient town. Just take a left at Zhuxi Lu, your first right at Xiangningbang Lu, and then a left at Xinfeng Lu, which will take you straight into the town.
If possible, try to go to Zhujiajiao on the earlier side to avoid crowds and to sample breakfast foods from the many hole-in-the-wall shops that exist along the walk from the train station to the old town. You can find bings of all kinds, wontons, shengjianbao, youtiao, and all the other Chinese breakfast food staples.
To Do
Flickr User: Mad Ball
Aside from strolling along the cobblestone alleys and the twisting canals - taking in the beautiful and (mostly) original architecture present in Zhujiajiao - you can also enjoy a leisurely boat ride, visit traditional Chinese gardens, explore a Buddhist temple, and get a glimpse into what life used to be like in Shanghai over 100 years ago.
Flickr User: Benny
Located less than 10 kilometers away from Zhujiajiao Old Town, don’t miss out on the sea of purple flowers that spread out into the distance, touching the horizon, at Shanghai Ancol Dreamland Herb Farm.
1. The most iconic spot in all of Zhujiajiao is without a doubt Fangsheng Bridge (放生桥), the largest, longest, and tallest stone arch bridge in Shanghai. After being rebuilt in 1571, this bridge that links the north and south part of Zhujiajiao together became the town’s trademark. Admire it from afar before crossing it yourself, since the views of it and the views from it are both equally distinct and striking.
If you’re still craving more ancient architecture after viewing the Fangsheng Bridge, you can hop on any of the small boats and cruise around the canals to observe the other 35 bridges present in Zhujiajiao. A 15-minute boat ride costs RMB 80 for six people, and longer rides are RMB 150.
2. Known as the “mile-long street with a thousand shops,” Bei Dajie (北大街) is the best preserved ancient street with buildings dating back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). With hundreds of open-air shops, restaurants, and cafés, you can easily spend a few hours here.
Purchase snacks and gifts for friends, taste local specialty products and pop into any of the restaurants for an enjoyable lunch with a picturesque view of the Fangsheng Bridge.
3. Kezhi Garden is one of the largest Chinese traditional gardens in southern China, yet you may not have previously heard of it. It used to be owned by Ma Weiqi, a salt merchant and one of the wealthiest men in Zhujiajiao.
The garden itself is composed of two parts: the study area (Ke Garden, 课园) and the farming area (Zhi Garden, 植园), enforcing the importance of studying and farming to maintain and happy and healthy household.
For only RMB 20, you can enjoy a relaxing stroll through the garden, meditation in the pagoda, a view of the tallest structure in old Zhujiajiao (a five-story pavilion), or a quiet place to read.
4. The Buddhist Yuanjin Monastery (圆津禅院) was built over 700 years ago on the northern end of Caohe Street. Composed of three main buildings, visitors can explore a number of halls and pavilions (RMB 10), as well as climb up to the third floor of Qinghua Pavilion for a panoramic view across Zhujiajiao Ancient Town.
5. Shanghai Ancol Dreamland Herb Farm (上海寻梦园香草农场) is a 266,667 square-meter oasis of herbs and flower gardens. Famous for their expansive lavender gardens that are in full bloom between June and September, visitors can walk around and through the breath-taking sea of purple.
The farm is open daily from 8am-6pm and costs RMB 50 to enter, but they are in the process of building an outdoor BBQ area so guests can spend the entire afternoon there. Note that the farm is located about a 25-minute cab from Zhujiajiao Ancient Town, so you will need to take a DiDi.
Since the farm is relatively remote, it’s hard to get a Didi back to the train station, so you may want to ask your Didi driver from the way there for his phone number or you may end up hitchhiking a few kilometers. There is a public bus that runs every 30 minutes from a few blocks north of the farm back to the train station as well.
To Eat
While Zhujiajiao is located in Shanghai’s Qingpu district, it still retains its own unique culture, which means it also boasts unique snacks to sample. From roasted and dried soy beans to 100-year-old pickle shops to some of the most famous zongzi in the entire country, it’s impossible to leave Zhujiajiao without feeling stuffed.
1. Walking around Bei Dajie, you will spot massive steaming metal bowls filled to the brim with what appears to be leaf-wrapped pork belly. The lingering smell of sweet, fatty pork will pull you in and have you taking your wallet out before you know it. Zharou (扎肉) are chunks of slow-braised pork in a sweet sauce, almost like fatty country-style pork ribs. The sauce is similar to a less sticky, thinner hongshao sauce that seeps in between the layers of meat and fat. Each piece is RMB 3 when you buy them from street vendors, and RMB 6 at sit-down restaurants.
Flickr User Anthony G. Reyes
2. Everyone has heard of zongzi (粽子), the triangle-shaped sticky and glutinous steamed rice dumplings that flood every Chinese city around the Dragon Boat Festival.
Well, Zhujiajiao is no exception and there are Ayis dotting every corner, expertly folding the bamboo leaves together, stuffing them with rice, egg yolk, pork, and other goodies, and wrapping them like pros with string or thin strips of pliable straw.
The fat from the meat melts into the rice, creating a thick, gooey texture and hearty flavor throughout. One of these bad boys will set you back only RMB 4-6 (depending on your choice of filling) and will keep you full for hours.
3. Zhujiajiao is famous for its green soy beans that are prepared in numerous signature dishes. For an on-the-go snack, many of the street food stalls along Bei Da Jie sell a dried and roasted version of them for RMB 10 a bag (250 grams) in four flavor choices. Choose from savory spiced, spicy with chilies, sweet with candied orange peel, or lightly salted with shaved river bamboo fungus. Or, try a few and mix them all together in one bag for a spicy, sweet, and salty snack combo!
4. Hand along Pickle Shop at 287 Bei Da Jie has been selling pickled snacks using a secret recipe for over 100 years. From sweet or savory pickled ginger (RMB 18 per jin) to pickled radishes in a chili dry spice rub (RMB 12.5 per jin) to sweet pickled cucumbers (RMB 12.5 per jin), the options are endless.
Served in large apothecary-style jars, you can sample your way down the line, picking your favorites to bring home with you.
5. Being so close to the water, it’s no surprise that river fish, baby clams, and small snails are on every menu of each restaurant that lines Zhujiajiao’s canals. But don’t be mistaken, the food at some of these restaurants is significantly better than others. For meaty, flash-fried little river fish (旁皮鱼), look no further than Shun Ji at 198 Be Dajie. The fish are roughly the size of large goldfish, and with flaky meat, crunchy bones, spicy chilies, and freshly chopped scallions, they are the perfect snack to go along with a cold beer and a river view.
For a bonus, make sure to order the river clams with Chinese chives (韮菜蚬) at Shun Ji as well. The lightly stir-fried crunchy chives are smothered in hundreds of plump, luscious de-shelled baby clams. Order it with rice to soak up all of that umami seafood broth, and you’ll be in crustacean heaven.
Final Thoughts
Getting to Zhujiajiao couldn’t be easier since Line 17 opened up, so there is no excuse not to check it out. The water town has its own unique character, specialty snacks, and a nearby flower garden, so you can get nature, culture, and history about an hour away from the comfort of your own couch. Nosh your way through the winding alleys, marvel at the ancient architecture, enjoy the laid-back way vibe and treat yourself to an afternoon floating along the canals of the Venice of Shanghai.