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New Opening: Innovative Reincarnation at Blackbird

Sophie Steiner ShanghaiWOWeng 2018-11-27

Everyone has their eyes on Columbia Circle due to a recent spread of incredible restaurants that are still only soft opening, yet one is already standing out above the rest: Blackbird. As the new sister restaurant to the original location of Blackbird (previously on Dongping Lu), this new one will fully open to the public in separate tiers over the next few months.



OHA Design is behind the unique modern décor that presents an innovative reincarnation of Blackbird in the form of a three-in-one concept, where each floor caters to a different clientele with whimsical cocktails and food as the common thread that connects each level.



The first floor boasts an elaborate display of infusion-based cocktails and equally-creative bar snacks and sharing plates. With a menu organized both by food choice and cocktails, you can work your way backwards or forward depending on your priority to start off with either food or booze. 



You can either pick one dish option and find cocktail and wine pairing recommendations based on your choice of food or go the other way around the find the perfect dish to accompany your beverage preferences. Either way, you’re taken care of.



Aqua Mineral (RMB 98)


At this stage, we are eagerly awaiting the opening of Table Black and Bar Black on the second floor which will be dedicated to their tasting table concept meant for groups of 12-14 people. Here, you'll be able to enjoy communal meals composed of 18-24 bite-sized courses that mix Western food with different regions of Asia in a laid-back and cozy living room environment. Similar to a dinner party at your friend’s house, you can finish one course, then head to Bar Black or sit on a comfortable chair to sip another specialty cocktail and enjoy your next bite while striking up a conversation with someone new. 


All of the rules of fine dining are replaced by casual and friendly vibes where good conversations and the freedom to move around trump all, and the food, creativity, flavors, and ingredients remain top of the line. This place comes close to matching or even surpassing any other fine dining experience.


Foie Gras and Malt (RMB 180)


Work your way up to the top floor where you’ll be greeted by craft beers, lounge chairs, and a garden full of plants, flowers and herbs used for growing seasonal produce that complement dishes on each dining area’s menu. Spend weekend evenings jamming out to rotating visiting DJs from around the globe or sign up for pop-up events that incorporate different art categories: live music, visual art, diverse workshops, design, and food fusion together.


Chef Blake Thornley is the master behind the avant-garde menu and a true mad scientist at heart. Imaginative, gritty, and hilariously forward in the best way possible, chef Blake combines his previous experience conducting lab work with his love for food to create inventive dishes that you won’t see on any other menu in town. He’s not afraid to tinker with ingredients, even if it means making mistakes at times; his food and personality are equal parts pace and passion. In the end, it’s a mix of “molecular gastronomy meets chemistry meets every kitchen gadget, tool and machine imaginable” to place something in front of you that makes your eyes see one thing but your mouth taste another.



This could not be truer for the Cuttlefish (RMB 80), a playful twist on something that oddly resembled Pad Thai in both flavor and appearance despite not using any of the same ingredients as the classic Thai dish. The cuttlefish is sous vide until soft, placed in the blast freezer and then sliced to resemble chewy rice noodles but without any of that fishy flavor. Top those off with a tempeh crumble, charred pineapple, crisp rocket, and yuzu dressing, and you’ve got yourself a refreshing, citrusy, comfort dish that tricks all five senses into thinking you’ve blacked out and arrived on a Thai island.



The Whipped Liver, Pigs Ears and Eel (RMB 48) is equally intriguing as a faux foie gras made of equal parts from a duck’s liver and clarified butter emulsified together, sous vide and served with homemade smoked eel, chicharron-esque puffed pork fat, and a soy caramel glaze. Creamy, crunchy, savory, and sweet, this dish really has it all going on and then some.



Using the Sonic Prep - a high-tech gadget that looks like it belongs in a chemistry lab - the bartenders use sound waves rather than heat to infuse various fruit and herbal flavors and create juices, tinctures, bitters, and jams that add distinct depth to each cocktail. At this point in your meal, you can cut the salt and fat of the previous bar bites with a tangy Super Pisco Punch (RMB 92) which smells like citrus and summer. The in-house-made passion fruit ginger lemon marmalade adds body to the drink while the splash of pineapple smooths it out.



I don’t trust anyone who isn't a fan of crispy fried soft-shell crab; to me, that’s like not being a fan of sunshine. The Soft Shell Crab (RMB 62) at Blackbird is just as whimsical as the previous dishes, battered and fried with Guizhou spice, similar to a five spice chili powder, and topped with dots of colorful green chili gel and white coconut apple gel with a bit of compressed apple to finish it off.



The Charcoal Grilled King Prawns (RMB 165) make for a standout dish that everyone should order. With a subtly sweet and smoky flavor, the tender prawns have the perfect char and chew. Smear each prawn with the white onion, clove, and almond purée covering the bottom of the bowl, something I shamelessly did with my fingers after finishing all the prawns just to be able to savor more of that sauce.


 

If you’re a fan of Sichuan Citizen’s Basil Drop, then the Green Day (RMB 92) will be your new favorite drink of the summer. Tasting like a creamy, basil smoothie without being overly sweet, this refreshing beverage is just too easy to drink. However, beware of the pours which are heftier than they seem, and the booze is easily masked by the expert infusions, so you’ll be feeling that vodka quicker than you think.



Once you've had your refreshing drink, you’ll probably be ready for a main course. If so, then the Roasted Lamb Loin (RMB 160) is a sure-fire win. Made of tender morsels of slow-cooked lamb placed on top of spiced pumpkin purée, drizzled with a cocoa reduction and fresh curry leaf demi-glace and garnished with a crispy yet soft date galette, there’s no way to not finish every last crumb on the plate.



Of course, you can’t end your meal here without ordering their New York Style Cheesecake (RMB 72) which is anything BUT a classic New York style cheesecake. Instead of your standard slice of heavy and rich cake, this dessert is rather light and playful. Chef Blake makes an espuma from regular cheesecake, pipes it into a rolled tube shape and blast freezes it. It’s then served semifreddo topped with fennel and white chocolate powder and accompanied by cubes of toasted mango ice cream. Make sure to order a few for the table since you likely won’t want to share.

 

So what’s next for Blackbird as they continue to expand? There are talks of potentially opening the rooftop for brunch once the heatwaves of July pass, but “brunch is just expensive eggs” says chef Blake who clearly isn’t the biggest fan of either eggs or brunch. So, for the time being, I think we are all happy to stick to boozy lunches, shared-plate dinners and innovative bar snacks, all enjoyed with standout cocktails.

 

Address: Building 8, Columbia Circle, 1262 Yan’an Xi Lu

Tel: 187 0199 0479

Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 11am-1am; Friday to Saturday, 11am-2am




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