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New Opening: Buzzworthy Tacos Causing a Stir at Tacoliscious

Sophie Steiner ShanghaiWOWeng 2018-11-30

How has it taken Shanghai this long to get authentic Mexican tacos? We've got legit Italian, fantastic French, satisfying Spanish, fulfilling Japanese and, of course, great dishes hailing from all over China. However, that craving for true street food-style Mexican food that I am used to being able to satisfy at all hours of the day in the USA has just never been quite satisfied here in Shanghai. Until I went to Tacoliscious.



I’m not talking about high-end Mexican for a nice date night where guacamole is made at the table in front of you, and I’m also not hating on other Mexican restaurants here in Shanghai; the free-flow margaritas at Mayita brunches are a rite of passage for Shanghai expats. I’m talking the down and dirty, sauce dripping down your chin, meat falling out the sides, melty cheese oozing onto your fingers while the bass is bumping in the background and tequila shots are flowing.



Tacoliscious really is just that. With a laid-back, friendly atmosphere, funky vibe and old school hip hop feel, this place has all the personality you could ask for. As the brainchild of Logan Brouse (from Logan’s Punch), Adrian Wall from Joe’s Pizza, and Saira Shaza and Thijs Oomens from BYFO Hot Sauce, this stellar lineup has breathed new life into Goga’s old space and rejuvenated the entire neighborhood. The main space is small, so when there are twenty to thirty people there, it feels like a house party at your friend’s place, rather than a meal at a restaurant.


Chicken Asado, RMB 60

 

While the patio was open on the rainy weekday that I visited, Logan mentioned that new furniture will be arriving soon and they plan to fully deck out the space, making it more guest-friendly in the upcoming weeks. With a great street view, a sun-cover, and mist-blowing fans, this rooftop is sure to become a regular weekend hangout.



Space aside, even if Tacoliscious served its food out of a cardboard box, I would visit said cardboard box on the regular because it is that damn delicious, and there is really something for everyone. Meat lovers can rejoice with their ridiculous brisket that would make my Jewish grandma cry tears of joy. Vegetarians can also celebrate because they have veg-friendly favorites that will blow your mind. Chinese food lovers will applaud since they have Mapo Tofu tacos and Hui Guo Rou tacos that make me think Chinese and Mexican together should become a staple fusion flavor. Finally, health-lovers cheer since they use all fresh ingredients, loads of vegetables, and their lean protein ceviches and black bean corn salads are bursting with flavor.


 

Start out your meal with one of the famous Palomas on tap (RMB 65), made in 10-liter batches of Altos Olmeca by Logan himself. Tacoliscious is the only place in the city where you can find Mexico’s favorite drink on draft with a permanent setup. The best part is, like their margaritas, the rim of the drink is coated in a homemade spice blend using Swedish smoked salt that tastes and smells like bacon fat (yum!), spiced Spanish paprika, and German pink peppercorns. Ditch the straw so you can get a lick of those smoky spices with each sip.


Shrimp Ceviche, RMB 70

 

Although it’s tempting to order an extra round of tacos and skip some of the appetizers, instead, just bring more friends with you so you can do both. The Seasonal Ceviche (RMB 65) is made of big slices of Dover Sole, marinated in lemon and lime juice, chipotle peppers, onion, and de-seeded tomatoes for six hours. It’s then topped with fresh cubes of avocado and cilantro. For the price of a cocktail, this appetizer is a hefty portion of yummy citrusy fish that is so light and fresh; the perfect way to kick-start your meal.



Next, order the Mexican Corn on the Cob (RMB 40). Don’t ask questions, do it, and thank me later. The corn is first boiled and then finished on the flat top for an extra caramelized char. It’s then generously rubbed with a spicy homemade mayo mixed with smoked and regular paprika, lime, and habanero peppers. Top the whole thing with cheese, sour cream, and cilantro that spreads all over your face with each bite. If you don’t die of a heart attack before finishing your first order, I know you’ll be ordering a second before leaving.


Bean, Corn and Cheese, RMB 55

 

Ok, now you can finally move on to ordering your tacos. Each order comes with two of the best tacos you’ve ever eaten, but don’t fret, you can mix and match if you prefer. Just note that if there is a price difference between the two tacos you order, you’ll end up paying for whichever is the higher price, a meager amount to be able to sample more taco flavors. Each taco comes enveloped in a crunchy corn tortilla that’s nestled inside a layer of melted cheese that is then wrapped up in a soft, squishy flour tortilla that is quickly grilled on the flattop for a smoky char. It’s essentially a hard and soft shell taco/quesadilla version of the movie inception.



I sampled every taco on the menu, and I still find myself daydreaming about the Smoked Brisket (RMB 65). With fatty pieces of melt-in-your-mouth New Zealand brisket that’s been marinated then smoked for 12 hours, it’s hard to find any fault in this drool-worthy morsel.


  

A close second and easily the biggest surprise is the Mapo Tofu (RMB 60) made with oven baked, Black Samurai marinated tofu cubes smothered in a spicy tomato and veggie sauce and topped with homemade ground Sichuan spice powder.


  

The Fried Fish (RMB 65) is crunchy and fluffy without being oily. Also made currently with Dover sole (although it will change seasonally to guarantee the freshest quality), the fish is dipped in Dos Equis batter, deep fried, and topped with red coleslaw and homemade garlic sauce. Non-meat eaters and meat eaters alike will fight over this taco, guaranteed.


 Grilled Shrimp, RMB 65

 

The Steak Asado (RMB 65) comes with Thai peppers and chipotle in adobo sauce which accentuate the meaty goodness of the Argentinian sliced tenderloin. Meanwhile, the Grilled Shrimp (RMB 65) are coated in a homemade cajun spice blend before being smothered in fresh sour cream and in-house made tequila infused salsa. At this point, I’ve mentioned almost all the tacos, so the real truth is that you just can’t go wrong. Order what you like, mix and match a few, meet people and share with them going bite for bite. No matter what you order, I promise you will love it.



I was so full that I almost passed on dessert, but I’m glad I found a little extra space for the Arroz con Leche (RMB50) that uses flavors that chef Thijs adapted from Logan’s grandma’s original recipe. The addition of orange zest mixed with the cinnamon and creamy, milky rice pudding will have you licking the bowl clean.


Black Beans and Grilled Corn Salad, RMB 55

 

I’m counting down the seconds until Tacoliscious opens a takeout window for the late-night crowd. They have the best tasting and best value “fourth meal” food, and I could easily see myself grabbing an Asahi after hours at the Lawson’s across the street while enjoying a taco nightcap, the absolute best way to wrap up any evening out.

  

Tacoliscious also launched a Brunch Menu with free flow margaritas and beer on Sundays from 12-3pm for RMB 150 as well as a la carte selections of motor smoker bacon and omelet tacos, smoked salmon and chipotle cream cheese, chicken asado, and BBQ pulled pork for RMB 40 for two tacos. Make sure also not to miss the house-made horchata! They are still in soft opening at the moment, but look forward to their grand opening party on July 13th with many drink and taco specials alike; it’s going to be a true fiesta!  


Tacoliscious

Address: 1 Yueyang Road

Tel: 137 6406 0741

Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 6pm-11:30pm; Sunday, 12pm-11:30pm




 


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