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七天七城系列之四:拉萨,拉萨!(附仓央嘉措诗六首)

2016-10-04 李建华 英语环球ChinaPlus

   

七天,七人,七城,

我们的玩法不一样!

打算宅在家里的你,

请与我们一起神游千里,

有计划出行的你,

更要把这组攻略好好珍惜。


今年国庆长假,英语环球特约七位“久居客”,带你们换个视角,认识那些你或许了解或许依然陌生的城市。


这趟环球旅行的第四站,让我们的援藏记者李建华带你去雪域明珠拉萨看看——


Lhasa is a place where you can find beautiful scenery and pious people.


大昭寺

说起拉萨,多数人的印象是这样的……


For many people, their impressions of Lhasa might be like this.


八廓街

然而,拉萨其实远不止是布达拉宫、八廓街和大昭寺……


Well...Lhasa is not all about those places.


今天就“另辟蹊径”,换个玩法。


Now let me show you some other places, which mightn’t be as well-known as the above-mentioned, but are definitely worth visiting.

转经道/The prayer lane转经是他们的信仰,也是他们日常的生活方式。就让我们以布达拉宫脚下的转经道为起点,从这里开始了解拉萨吧!


对许多藏族同胞们来说,来布达拉宫朝拜是这辈子必做的事情之一,很多人带上家里全部财产踏上朝拜之路,从自家门口一路磕头,来到布达拉宫脚下。


For many Tibetans, coming to the Potala Palace is one the things they must do in their lives. They would start their pilgrimage with all the possessions they can carry and kowtow all the way from their homes to Lhasa.


许多拉萨本地人则是用转经早早开启自己的一天,到7点左右已经坐进茶馆:一碗藏面,一壶甜茶,老人们一坐就是一天。

 

Many local Lhasa Tibetans start their days from the “prayer lane,” after which they would sit into a tea house -- which could be found almost everywhere in Lhasa -- and spend the whole day there. A bowl of Tuba (Tibetan noodles) and a kettle of sweet tea would make their day.

 

小提示The tea houses in Tibet only provide customers with sweet tea, not butter tea!  建华



扎耶巴寺/Thayerpa Monastery小编个人认为,扎耶巴寺是拉萨境内必去寺庙,没有之一!早上6点在大昭寺门口坐上大巴,7点半左右便会到达山顶。


相比于拉萨的三大名寺(大昭寺、色拉萨、哲蚌寺),扎耶巴寺可以说是“远离嚣尘”,修心养性最佳之处。


Compared with the three most famous monasteries in Lhasa -- including Jhokang Temple, Sera Monastery and Drepung Monastery -- Thayerpa Monastery, I would say, is the best one to visit. In the words of Thomas Hardy, this monastery is indeed “Far from the Madding Crowd.”


该寺始建于公元7世纪,已有1500年历史,由吐蕃赞普松赞干布为其爱妃尺尊公主所建。


The monastery, built in the 7th century by Song Zan Gampo for Princess Chizun from Nepal, has a history of more than 1500 years. 

小提示You are better off bring more clothes with yourself -- the monastery is 4200 metres above the sea level, so it might be a bit chilly. 建华



扎耶巴寺游客很少,大多都是朝拜香客


Here you wouldn’t see many visitors. Mostly people who come here are Buddha worshipers.


拜完佛后当地人大多习惯绕对面的山坡一圈以表对自然的尊重。


The hill in front of the monastery is also considered holy and auspicious. Local people would walk around the hill one lap to pay their tribute to Nature. 


玛吉阿米/Makye Ame来了拉萨当然要去玛吉阿米,不为别的,只为那些浪漫美丽的故事。


玛吉阿米,藏语意为“未嫁娘”。这个名字出自六世达赖喇嘛仓央嘉措的情诗,传说是仓央嘉措情人的名字,当年两人幽会的地方就是这幢黄色小楼。


Makye Ame means “a girl who’s unmarried yet”. The name is from one of the 6th Dalai Lama’s poems, which is widely believed to refer to the poet’s lover. And the yellow building is said to be the place where they had a rendezvous.

走进玛吉阿米,你会看到茶几上成堆的留言簿里写满了世界各国游客的心声;当然你也可以在这里留下一段文字。


Here you can jot down your feelings in one of the notebooks stacked on the windowsills.


小提示If you find your bill paid by someone, you are lucky -- this means that someone has set a sight on you! And it happens. 建华


附上仓央嘉措的诗六首,这些句子翻译成英文同样那么美!


你可以一边听着他的诗,


一边游览拉萨哦~


——Read by Shen Ting & Zhong Qiu


Six Short Poems

译/黎历  Tr. by Lily

 

1.

柳树爱上了小鸟,

小鸟爱上了柳树。

若两人爱情和谐,

鹰即无隙可乘。

 

A willow falls in love with a bird

While the bird also loves the willow

If their love is harmonious and solid

The eagle has no crack to wedge in

 

2.

第一最好是不相见,

如此便可不至相恋;

第二最好是不相识,

如此便可不用相思。

 

At first it’s better not to meet you

So we cannot fall in love

Then it’s better not to know you

So I don’t need to become lovesick

 

3

人们说我的话,

我心中承认是对的。

我少年琐碎的脚步,

曾到女店东家里去过。

 

I admit in my heart

What folks say about me fits the fact

When I was young, I did sneak into

the home of a woman shop keeper

 

4

住在布达拉宫,

我是雪域最大的王;

流浪在拉萨街头,

我是天下最美的情郎。

 

Residing inside the Potala Palace

I’m the supreme king in the snowy world

Wandering in the streets of Lhasa

I’m the most handsome beau on the earth

 

5

从东边的山尖上,

白亮的月儿出来了。

“未生娘”的脸儿,

在心中已渐渐地显现。

 

From the peak of the eastern hill

Whitish bright moon comes forth

The fair face of a virgin

Has gradually emerged in my mind

 

6

自己的意中人儿,

若能成终身的伴侣,

犹如从大海底中,

得到一件珍宝。

 

If my loved one

Can become my lifelong companion

It’s as if I've secured a treasure

From the seabed




关于作者:这位帅哥偶尔一次出镜就被迷妹们称做“韩系美男子”。不过这一次,他决心用才华说话。恩,意思就是不露脸~


谈及他与拉萨的缘分,他说,“人生应该有一次说走就走的旅行,而我是幸运的,可以来到西藏——这离天最近的地方。 援藏半年,还有不到两个月就要回去了,心里有些不舍,希望有生之年还能与你相遇!”



关于“久居客”:所谓“久居客”,是指那些因为学习或工作曾在异国他乡长期生活过的人——


和当地人相比,他们的目光始终带着外来者的审视与好奇,更能发觉那些当地人已经习以为常的美好;


和脚步匆匆的游客相比,久居客乡的他们都有自己私家珍藏的一份攻略,绝对不同于市面上那些大路货哟!


七位作者带来他们有关七座城市的独家回忆和特别推荐,你怎能错过?


往期精彩:


七天七城系列之一:悉尼,悉尼!


七天七城系列之二:香港,香港!


七天七城系列之三:哈博罗内



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