The Deep Dish: Hutong Pizza, a 14-Year-Old Beijing Mainstay
As online voting continues for the 2017 Pizza Cup, The Deep Dish
will be previewing a few of the restaurants vying for the title of
Beijing's most beloved pie. So take a look, grab a slice, and pick the
team you want to be victorious.
While Hutong Pizza isn't
as flashy as some of its competitors, the Houhai restaurant has grown
into one of the most reliable Western grub spots in the ever-tumultuous
Dongcheng alleyways.
Its square slices are crisp on the bottom
and cushy on top, a straightforward combination that satisfies
nonetheless. The menu is also dotted with simple options like pepperoni,
Hawaiian, roasted chicken and bacon, and more. None of that comes as a
surprise – at least for someone like me, who is used to square slices
being an unfussy yet satisfying comfort food back home.
That being said, some of Hutong Pizza's other topping options are admirably more complex. Of that bunch: the chicken curry pizza (RMB
60 for a single rectangular serving made up of four square pieces; RMB
88 for a nine-inch pizza that'll satisfy a pair of patrons; and the RMB
128 12-inch). This pie features pieces of curried chicken, green pepper,
onion, chili, mint, and yogurt for a gently spicy South Asian flair
that greatly exceeded our expectations.
Hip to be square: some of Hutong Pizza's pies are straightforward, but others are surprisingly creative
Hutong's other pizzas of that ilk include the Carnivore Carnival Pizza (made
with minced beef, pepperoni, bacon, green pepper, onion and olives,
priced at RMB 62, 90, and 139 for each of its three sizes); the Mediterranean (with pepperoni, roasted eggplant, roasted zucchini, feta, olives and pesto, costing RMB 65, 92, or 138); and the parma ham pizza (with artichoke hearts and black olives, at RMB 62, 92, or 138).
The
decor is equally creative, eschewing stereotypical western pizzeria
vibes for more of a vibe that somehow straddles traditional Chinese
restaurants and many of the guesthouses in tourist hotspots all over the
country.
All of these features lead our dear, recently deceased friend Mike Peters
to rank Hutong Pizza among his favorites during an interview a few
years back. At the time he said: "This joint was my first pizza love in
Beijing, and it’s a sweet spot to share a meal with someone special. The
pizza is delicious and consistent – and the kitchen knows how to punk
up the crust with a little cornmeal. The ambiance is intimate with the
charming fishpond courtyard and homey feeling. Afterward, it’s nice to
stroll around the lake at Houhai when the weather is fine."
Hutong Pizza was a favorite of China Daily food critic Mike Peters
The restaurant's owner, Wang Kunsong, meanwhile told the Beijinger about
trying to extend such friendly vibes to Hutong Pizza's staff: "We try
not to view ourselves as a business, and to remember that what's
important is the way we live. I provide housing for my staff, I care
about how they live, because if they are well, then they'll work well
and be happier."
It's a down-to-earth, lao-Beijing
attitude that helps Hutong Pizza easily earn its moniker. Considering
all that, and more, there's little wonder why this restaurant has
withstood nearly a decade and a half in Beijing's volatile restaurant
scene, and which makes us think it'll continue to be a mainstay for
years to come.
Haven't yet voted in our 2017 Pizza Cup? Simply scan the QR code below to have your say before the winner is announced on October 19:
Photos: Kyle Mullin, Hutong Pizza, Tracy Wang, Mike Peters
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