Ciao, Beijing: Beloved Opera Bombana Chef Heads to Shanghai
After over a decade of working in Beijing's restaurant scene, Marino D'Antonio is set to close that chapter of his career next week, heading down to Shanghai where he will take over the kitchen at Frasca restaurant in The Middle House. Sitting at the bar at Opera Bombana, the high-end restaurant that he has presided over for the past six years, we chatted with the husky Italian chef over an espresso that was as deep and rich as his booming voice, and looked back on his time in the capital.
Marino D'Antonio has presided over high end restaurant Opera Bombana for six years
What are some of your fondest memories of working in Beijing?
When I look back at my experience in Beijing, I have almost entirely good memories. It's a city that gave me so much opportunity.
When I came in 2006 I was working with a Chinese hotel managed by a foreigner. From there I had a chance to work with Shangri-La, and then at The Opposite House, which was incredibly amazing. After that, I got to meet [chef and founder of the Opera Bombana chain] Umberto Bombana. This city has made my career go up to the top level. So I'm happy about that.
And of course, I like the fact that, when the city has a blue sky like today, you have some of the most beautiful sights you can visit in all of China. You can go on your bicycle in the hutongs and have a lot of beautiful experiences. Also the food, the people — there's a lot of things I like in Beijing!
Do you have some favorite local spots that you'll miss once you move away?
You know zhajiangmian [noodles with meat sauce]? I like it homemade. Especially by my sous chef, he's from Beijing.
What's his name?
Rain.
Like the rain from the sky?
Yes, like the Korean singer! [Laughs]. This guy worked with me for the past ten years. When he has time, he'll prepare some wonderful zhajiangmian for me.
Then there’s Jing Yaa Tang, they have gorgeous Peking duck. And while street food is not so easy to find in Beijing like before, I’ll always have good memories of a small restaurant in Sanlitun near the police station, where you could get noodles or stir-fried vegetables.
D'Antonio with Opera Bombana owner and chef Umberto Bombana during one of his visits to the Beijing branch
And what memories will stand out from your time at Opera Bombana? I've heard you cooked for a few celebrities here over the years.
Yes, we had the King of Spain here once. Very cool dude. Very tall, very charismatic. We also had Matt Damon here a couple of times when he was filming The Great Wall. Very down to earth guy.
On the flipside, what are you looking forward to most about working at Frasca restaurant in The Middle House hotel in Shanghai?
It will be more casual, not high end like Opera Bombana. The restaurant is very beautiful, designed by an Italian architect. The food is going to be traditional Italian, easy going. Pastas, pizzas, some deep fried items, a lot of steak, and a nice choice of desserts.
What else are you looking forward to about working in Shanghai? It has a very vibrant F&B market.
It’ll be a new challenge, a new city. Of course, I'll do my best to fit in, because the competition is very difficult there. But I'll try. I'm very excited and looking forward to it. I would really love to make Frasca one of the best Italian restaurants in Shanghai. Which I know sounds like a lot, because it's a competitive market. But that's what we want, to make it popular, to make it fun, and a happy place for people to gather and get true authentic Italian food.
Anything else you’d like to add?
I'd, of course, like to thank to all the people in Beijing, because it's through their support I have this chance to go to Shanghai. I'll also be back in Beijing on a regular basis with Frasca, because The Opposite House is doing a renovation, turning their Village Cafe into Frasca Beijing. And I will help them with that.
Who will take over for you here?
There is a new guy, it's not official yet, but it will likely be Eugenio Iraci, who was the chef at a restaurant in Hotel NUO in Wangfujing. He used to do things with Opera Bombana before, back in 2008, we had a short period working together. So we found a good fit for Opera Bombana after I’m gone.
Photos: Courtesy of Opera Bombana, travel.ifeng.com, Opera Bombana's Facebook (@operabombana)
Want to know what awesome events are happening in town? Scan/Extract the QR code above to get the list of our Editors' Picks.
Got something to sell? Looking for a job? Or an apartment? Then scan/extract the QR code above to visit our Classified Ads.
Do you have what it takes to be a True Runner?
Scan/Extract the QR code above to check out our current job openings.
Always something fresh
Scan/Extract the QR code above to follow us!
Tap on the cover to access the latest print issue