Moji Brings a Splash of Color and Homemade Taco Charm to SLT
Is
Beijing's Mexican game reaching saturation point? We're just about
getting to the point where the pang for tacos can be easily met, with a
handful of solid options to relieve you of your immediate need. Though a
visit to Moji Mexican Restaurant is
a humbler affair to that of a few of the city's more established
Mexican haunts, its homespun charm and convenient location in Sanlitun's
Topwin Center earmark it as a decent lunch or low-key dinner spot.
The restaurant has a bright cantina feel with large windows and booths at the far end
In fact, this branch isn't the restaurant's first. Moji got its start down in Shuangjing, with a branch that has quietly existed for over six months. This expansion to Topwin is likely to see it build a more diverse fanbase, which it deserves given that it's ostensibly a project of love by owner Gao "Javier" Yuan, a Harbin native who, after moving to study in Mexico, discovered a fondness for the local grub. In his own words: "Mexican food has similar qualities to Chinese food in that it is enjoyed all around the world." After moving back to China, he recruited the help of his old buddy and head chef Rogelio Gamboa, who braced for the cold and made the trip out East.
Other
than the odd abberation ("classic" clam chowder in a sourdough bread
bowl?), the food here is authentic. Gao is quick to point out that the
restaurant's corn tacos are made fresh daily using the traditional
nixtamalization method, a 2,500-year-old process for corn preparation
that increases nutritional value, flavor, and aroma. As such, they are
one of the highlights here and are sturdy, fluffy, and just flavorful
enough to complement the fillings within.
Moji's care to make authentic corn-based tacos is readily apparent
Our combination of three: beef, cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork), and slow-roasted lamb (RMB
62) were well-balanced and decently portioned though we did find the
chicken a little dry and the pork a little too heavy on the cinnamon.
Again, the corn tacos stole the show but were sadly not able to save the
sole vegetarian option: mushroom tacos, which proved a little too sloppy. Other varieties include spicy chicken, beef potato, mushroom, al pastor (pineapple and chicken), and sausage (RMB
52-68) all with burrito and quesadilla equivalents. We would strongly
recommend trying not to fill up on the nachos beforehand (good luck).
The nachos don't overdo it but go down a treat (ask for a side of sour cream)
One dish that you won't find elsewhere among Beijing's Mexican restaurant set is the baked crab with achiote (RMB 238) which comes in a homely baking dish and topped with a sprinkling of cheese and coriander. Achiote,
for those unfamiliar, is not only used as a natural food dye thanks to
its bright crimson hue, but also has a deep, nutty, and almost
intoxicating taste and one that pairs well with the shredded crab and
peppers in this dish. Scoop up the mixture with the accompanying
tortilla chips and await the gentle, slow burn to take effect.
The traditional dish of baked crab with achiote is one of the dishes that sets Moji apart from Beijing's other Mexican restaurants
In
all, Moji still has a few teething problems – service time being
probably the biggest – but their move to Sanlitun is a promising
development and the care put into the proceedings is more than apparent.
For that reason, we'll certainly be back in the near future once their
drinks offerings have expanded so that we can munch on their fine tacos
into the night.
Daily 11.30am-11pm
2/F, Topwin Center, Gongti Stadium North Road, Sanlitun, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯工体育场北路三里屯通盈中心2层
177 1009 8626
Photos courtesy of Moji Mexican Restaurant, Tom Arnstein
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