Clubbing Meets Pan-Asian Dining at CUE in Liangmaqiao
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Stepping into CUE on the third floor of Liangmaqiao's Grand Summit, you're first struck by how spacious this new restaurant and cocktail bar is. Previously occupied by a three-star Michelin star Japanese dessert shop, the venue has been completely rejigged, using the ample space that was once needed to create intricate cakes to instead house a bar, marble tables, and a smattering of sofas. Lofty ceilings and muted earthy green, white, and lavender walls are inflected with purple strip lighting for a loungey feel, whereas the floor-to-ceiling windows that stretch the entire west side of the room conceal a huge terrace fit for lavish all-night parties, which in the coming months is exactly what CUE looks to make its bread and butter.
CUE's decor is tastefully modern and suitably varied depending on whether you're there to eat or drink
CUE is backed by Italian liquor brand Terrazza Martini, who opened their first venue where Sanlitun's much-beloved Migas in Nali Patio used to be, and whose success it has struggled to replicate. Here, they seems to be positioning itself to take another stab at Beijing's nightlife scene. The "dress code" (no tracksuits, folks) seems designed to lure in Migas' sharper-than-average clientele, and in mid-April, Martini will be kitting out the sizeable terrace out that will be lit up as a beacon for the adjacent Liangmaqiao-surrounding hotels. Parties, however, are only one part of CUE's masterplan.
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Tuna tartare with wasabi mayo
For the food menu, they've called upon the chef at hip Shanghai pan-Asian restaurant Cobra Lily to create a similar mix of traditional dishes and some twists thrown in for good, modern measure. An early favorite is the tuna avocado tartare (RMB 128), a creamy and delicate mix of fresh tuna and avocado that is held together with wasabi mayo and topped with Thai rice crackers for a whole that is refreshing, punchy, part soft, and part crunchy.
The papaya salad suffers a little from being too shrimpy but is rescued by the excellent soft-shell crab
Elsewhere, the side of deep-fried soft-shell crab steals the show next to an otherwise basic papaya salad (RMB 88), whose fresh flavor is overshadowed by dried shrimp, and a few sad, chewy raw green beans.
Mapo doufu covered in cheese is a dish we wouldn't recommend eating more than once a month
Basic unfortunately describes the topping on one of the more interesting dishes – playfully titled Chengdu in Paris (RMB 98) – and what is ostensibly mapo doufu covered in a cheese sauce and sprinkled with chili peanuts straight out of the bag. As much as we love them as a snack with a glass of cold beer, we find that the chilies cheapen the incredibly moreish (and deeply guilt-inducing) blend of soft tofu, pork, gravy, and cheese beneath, which should absolutely be eaten over rice for best effect.
Slightly charred and juicy, the chicken pairs great with a light cashew and yogurt sauce
The boneless chicken (RMB 138), well, isn't boneless but it is barbecued to perfection, with slightly charred and crunchy parts in places, and paired with a light cashew and yogurt sauce.
The Boom! Boom! Boom! tastes much better than it initially looks
Which leads us to the signature dessert, the Boom! Boom! Boom! (RMB 88). It may not look like much, but again it's a good example of the playful nature of CUE's menu, combining coconut ice cream and lime curd covered in a thick puddle of sherbet-whipped yogurt, and finished with a sprinkling of paprika and rice crispies. As the initial wince from the sweet-tart combo of the ice cream and curd wanes, a fizz on the tongue and gentle crackles from the breakfast cereal slowly take over.
The bar intends to start a three-hour all-you-can-drink deal
The cocktail menu so far spans the classics – old fashioneds, manhattans, sidecars, negronis. Our negroni (RMB 68), though far from the best we've had, was plenty drinkable, and given that you'll want to sink a few to get into the dancing spirit, are reasonably priced. The range of hookahs on offer, plus a planned three-hour RMB 150 all-you-can-drink deal won't hurt either.
While CUE has many moving parts – and they are adding regular LGBT nights on Tuesdays and live jazz on Wednesdays – so far they are deftly pulling together their robust food menu, reasonably priced cocktails, and a chic atmosphere so that come spring it may be one of the biggest new party draws in town.
CUE
Daily 11am-late
3/F Grand Summit South Wing, Dongfang Donglu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东方东路亮马桥外交大楼官舍南区三楼
158 0213 1448
READ: Blue Rice and Modern Peranakan Classics? Tease by CreatureS Puts a Twist on the Classics
Photos: Tom Arnstein
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