Sanlitun's New Bar Union Wants to Let You in on a Secret
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The Opposite House's new bar Union can feel at once intimate and expansive, depending on your vantage point. Taking its design cues from various secret societies around the world, rattan-like dividers that obscure private cubbies facing out into the neighboring Taikoo Li, the smattering of tables and chairs that sit at either side of the elongated room, and the long, raised table that parallels the bar all add up to make it feel exclusive but not aloof so as to dissuade the after-work drinks set.
Union makes a grand first impression but there are smaller, private areas to sit should you wish
Part of that warmth comes from the space, which used to house the Sanlitun hotel's foyer, and has been entirely transformed into an expanse of brushed copper, green glass, plush carpets, and rich leather. Eschewing the minimalism of the brand's previous bar Mesh (currently undergoing its own transformation into a Sichuan restaurant), Union opts instead for a decor that is definitely opulent. While rustic ornaments seemingly collected from around the world line the shelves and secret society iconography adorn the menu and coasters, splashes of vibrant red behind the bar bring it all home, hinting toward a palette that wouldn't look out of place at the Forbidden City.
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Splashes of red behind the bar and the rich browns and copper summon elements of famous Beijing architecture
If it's difficult to place exactly where Union bar reminds you of, that's no coincidence; the exoticism in the decoration is also reflected in the cocktail menu, which draws inspiration from the Silk Road and Marco Polo's globetrotting escapades. As such, the bar's 12 signature cocktails (all RMB 98) take elements of standard cocktails and spin them; a Moscow mule becomes the "Canton Mule" (wheat vodka, galangal, Kumquat, pistachio, lime, mint, and craft ginger beer), a martini becomes a "Genghis Khan Martini" (gin, Mongolia kumiss, dry vermouth, elderflower, coconut, and sea salt), and an old fashioned becomes a "Siam Old Fashioned" (butter washed bourbon, rye whisky, port, stout reduction, pandan, and Trinidad bitters). The latter is our particular favorite; bright fuchsia and endlessly drinkable, the pandan garnish adds a Southeast Asian twist while the slice of dried taro adds a little crunch between sips.
The signature cocktails put a traveler's spin on the classics
The remaining 20 pages of menu span everything from classic cocktails (RMB 90) to red and white wines, spirits from all over the world, and even a page of mocktails (RMB 70) that are just as creative as their boozy counterparts.
If the alcohol selection seems overwhelming then diners are treated to a much more down-to-earth snack menu. Created by enigmatic chef Marino D'Antonio of former Opera Bombana fame, the bar bites are hearty enough to hold their own against the booze. Don't skip the arancini rice balls with spiced tomato sauce (RMB 60) or grilled chicken satay (RMB 70). There are also Wagyu beef sliders (RMB 108 for three) if you're wanting something more substantial.
It's hard to imagine just how underwhelming the former lobby of The Opposite House was prior to the renovations just a few months ago, given the stature of the bar that now stands in its place. And while the decor is sumptuous, it's Union's cocktails and food that'll keep us coming back, letting it whisk us away on a refined escape from the Beijing bustle.
Union
Daily, 11am-1am
1/F, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯街道11号三里屯太古里北区瑜舍酒店
Dig into Beijing's best new bar openings from the past couple of months right here.
Photos courtesy of Union, Tom Arnstein
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