Kiev: Exploring the Dazzling Borderline Between Europe and Asia

From: Tautvile D. theBeijinger 2019-10-30

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"Unapologetic" is the first adjective that comes to mind when describing Kiev. The bold, brave, extravagant, and all-round bright capital of Ukraine will be an unexpectedly delightful discovery for many. If you're tired of the trend towards minimalism, Kiev will bring you welcome relief: the thousands of golden domes dotting the hilly landscape, soaring towers, street frescos, and beautiful art-deco buildings are proof that more is always more.

Getting There and Around

Ukrainian International Airlines connects Kiev and Beijing on a direct flight, but there are multiple cheaper options that include a transfer. Kiev is one of the most populous and largest cities in Europe so tourist spots are not always within easy walking distance, but apps like Uber or Bolt (the Western versions of Didi, remember them?) are cheap.

Russian is widely spoken in Kiev, but the younger generation of Ukrainians are often fluent in English.

For unique souvenirs, check out two boutiques "Vsi Svoi" close to the Independence Square. The shops store surprisingly affordable Ukrainian designers' work, from clothes to ceramics and furniture.

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What to do

Kiev has a long, rich, and seriously complicated history which has resulted in more museums than you could visit in a month. However, many lack the kind of narrative cohesion (or language) that would make them enjoyable for visitors who don't already have a pretty good understanding of the city's history. If that's you, you're probably better off joining a tip-based walking tour around the city (Free Kiev Tours, freetours.kiev.ua).

Pray to your Gods

You can easily spend a day or two only touring monasteries and churches, and while wandering around, it feels like you are never more than 50 meters from some kind of religious establishment. The vibrant colors of sacral art and domes which reflect the rays of sunshine are a welcome sight for eyes weary of Beijing's beloved grey. Many of the churches are open to the public, but if they aren't, the exteriors are just as impressive.

Then bow down to the great Motherland Monument

Statue of Liberty, eat your heart out. This 102-meter-tall structure simply dominates the Kiev skyline, and depicts a woman holding a sword and a shield with the State Emblem of the Soviet Union. The statue is a part of the National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War and while it is controversial today due to it's Soviet and Communist symbols, it continues to tower above the city and frankly, looks incredible.

This area is a treat for military nerds and the generally nostalgic: the whole area feels stuck in time and there is plenty of USSR-reminding insignia and art to enjoy. The military vehicle exhibitions around the area will certainly bring all the boys to the yard (or at least bring out the boys in grown men), while most of the exhibits in the World War II museum have English descriptions. After all the tanks have been climbed upon, enter the elevator to the Motherland monument itself for a panoramic view of the city.

Hit the beach

One of Kiev's best-kept secrets is its beach, or rather, beaches. The huge river that cuts Kiev in half, Dnepro, spoils urbanites with stretches of golden sand, volleyball, sunbathing, and even some outdoor workout spots (forget beach yoga though, it's more about lifting metal bars with a radiator attached to it Eastern European style).

Choice spots are many and varied, but we recommend aiming for Hydropark station on one of the islands and explore from there. Just make sure you only bathe in the areas that are clearly designated and have a lifeguard tower.

Visit Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant

Thanks to the wildly popular HBO series, and its general notoriety, the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant is now one of the most popular day-trips one can do from Kiev and lies about 110 kilometers north of the city. If you have a day to spare, choose a tour from one of the numerous operators that can be found on TripAdvisor, but be warned, literally everybody else is going there as well, so eerie vibes are somewhat diluted by the crowds.

What to eat and drink

Literally everything and pair it with jugs of wine. Food is one of the highlights of Kiev.

For those looking to tackle their taste buds with cheap and hearty Georgian wine, herb-heavy vegetable dishes, generous meat portions, and freshly baked bread (so... everyone) try Mama Manana or Gogi. Crimean style cuisine from Southern Ukraine is served at Musafir Cafe (try the cheburek deep-fried, stuffed dumplings). If you go absolutely all-out, you might manage to spend around RMB 100-150 per person (wine included, of course). Old-timey canteen-style restaurant Puzata Hata serves classical Ukrainian dishes fuss-free, so just grab what you like and place it on your tray.

If you are looking for a more expensive but entertaining dining experience, head to "The Last Barricade," a traditional Ukrainian restaurant that is tucked below the Independence Square (Maidan Nezalezhnosti). The eatery is constructed as one big memorial to Ukrainian revolutions, and after saying the password you will be let in through the secret door and given a quick tour. Don't worry if you get lost on your way back from the bathroom, that's normal.

Whether you are planning a three-day or a three-week stay, Kiev is sure to keep your stomach full and mind entertained.