COVID-19 Fails to Dethrone Queenie's Sandwiches and Bar

Original Drew Pittock theBeijinger

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On Jan 24, the chefs and bartenders at Queenie’s Sandwiches and Bar were busy preparing dumplings, tapping kegs, and lining their shelves with liquor bottles for a raucous Chinese New Year celebration. By nightfall, a swarm of revelers had packed into the American-style diner, throwing back shots and dancing under the restaurant’s warm neon glow. If the energy and excitement that night were any indication, the upcoming Year of the Rat was going to be a good one.

This, however, was not to be the case. By early February, COVID-19 had turned into a nationwide epidemic, and QS was promptly obliged to shut their doors.

“Before the Spring Festival, the warehouse had prepared enough food to support 15 days of normal business, as well as a month of alcoholic beverages,” says Jim Wang, co-owner and husband of QS founder and namesake, Queenie. “In mid-January, we had just paid the rent for three months, and paid salaries and savings to all employees. The sudden interruption of cash flow plunged us into a financial squeeze.”

To make ends meet, the brains behind QS sandwiches decided to shift gears and serve jianbing as well

Uncertain of when they'd be able to reopen, the team knew they would have to innovate, lest they be forced to close for good. One saving grace came in the form of their street-level window, which was converted into a makeshift 煎饼 jiānbing stand. Although known for their signature cheap sandwiches, the switch to jianbings – a fan favorite amongst expats and locals alike – was a huge success, much to the relief of Wang and Queenie.

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To be sure, the seemingly endless devastation caused by COVID-19 was enough to break anyone, financially, mentally, and emotionally. Luckily, however, the fact that QS is run by a devoted husband and wife team means they enjoy a built-in support system, no matter how bad things got.

“During the epidemic, Queenie always gave me comfort and support, and encouraged me to use this rare opportunity to plan the next steps in QS’ development,” explains Wang. As a result, they began adjusting their wine list, developing new dishes, experimenting with ingredients, improving their cocktail recipes, and even updating their playlists, which skew towards '50s and '60s Americana, but always include a couple modern chart-toppers to keep the party going. The last item on the development agenda was “fine-tuning” a number of events and parties that were originally slated for March, but would obviously have to be postponed.

Between its checkerboard floor and neon ambience, QS harkens back to the jukebox junkies of '50s Americana

Having spent a number of anxiety-inducing weeks barely keeping their heads above water, QS was finally granted permission to reopen in late March on the condition that they subject their customers to temperature readings, registering their contact information, and "other cumbersome procedures." Wang was worried that people wouldn't want to put up with the stringent requirements necessary for the business to operate, but he also couldn't afford to leave his seats empty and pint glasses dry any longer. Much to his surprise, however, the turnout was nothing short of inspiring.

“I really didn’t think QS would be such a favorite place,” admits Wang. “I stood at the door, originally intending to apologize and thank every guest for coming, but when they saw me, they all held my hand and said thank you. Thank you for not giving up. Thank you for being able to withstand the pressure. Thank you for being able to resume business. At that moment, I felt that QS, which has grown from a 20sqm sandwich shop to a 250sqm American-style diner and bar, really can’t do without these guests who have been so caring and supportive of us.”

According to Wang, some folks came from as far as Daxing and Tongxian just to show their support, a fact that he and his wife found particularly touching.

“We are really moved by everyone’s support and encouragement,” says Wang. “We can only return with more robust growth, bringing more food and wine and more exciting parties to everyone… We will always remember this friendship.”