Local Gem: Ever Wonder What North Korean Dining is Like?
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What came first, foodie culture or exotic fusion dining? The world may never know. But what we do know is that when people are so singularly focused on discovering the next culinary trend, they run the risk of overlooking a cuisine that may not have a catchy name, but remains altogether enigmatic in its own right. Which is to say, people can brag about their mind-blowing experience in a three-star Michelin restaurant or a night spent sipping locally sourced craft tequila, but few can come up with a clear idea of what North Korean food is like, despite its geographic proximity to China.
The exterior is relatively humble compared to the dazzling, glamorous interior design
The culinary culture across the Yalu River remains largely unknown to folks in these parts, or around the world for that matter, much like the country it derives from. Whereas South Korea is famous for bibimbap and BBQ, what does the North have to offer? To find out, I followed the recommendation of a friend to 玉流馆 Okryu-gwan, an overseas branch of the famous restaurant based in Pyongyang. Incidentally, the restaurant is located in Wangjing, home to Beijing's highest density of Korean speaking residents.
Probably the biggest portion of kimchi I've ever had
Okryu-gwan stays true to authentic flavors and is noticeably less Westernized and modern than many of its South Korean counterparts. You won’t find any cheese, Salisbury steak, or fried chicken on this menu. Instead, it features a wide selection of seafood and traditional appetizers such as kimchi. Although widely available across Beijing, Okryu-gwan does a formidable job with their kimchi. The Chinese cabbage has a clean profile and tastes fresh from the urn, not to mention the fact that they leave both the leaves and stems intact for people who enjoy a little textural variety. The most impressive part of this dish comes after devouring the first layer, when a fizzy sensation alights on your tongue, not unlike drinking soda water. And though I never thought I would describe a fermented food as refreshing, this is just that one-of-a-kind.
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Forget about caviar, spicy stir-fried fish roe is king
The original Okryu-gwan is famous for its cold noodle and their Beijing branch inherited this tradition proudly
玉流馆 Okryu-gwan
Daily, 11am-10pm. No.8 Huguang Mid Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区湖光中街8号 (64732803)
READ: Local Gem: Is a Bowl of Noodles Ever Worth a 30 Minute Wait?
Images: Twitter, Yhouse, Zeus Zou
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