Local Gem: Eat Like an Emperor... for Lunch!

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Local Gem is an exploration of Beijing’s diverse palate. Get out of your comfort zone and try something new! To share your own neighborhood pride, please contact us via editor@thebeijinger.com or in the comment section below

By following the Beijinger and this column specifically, chances are that you're beginning to assemble a stellar list of the city's best Yunnan cuisine, braised beef, and donkey burgers (at least that's our hope). Sometimes, however, what you really need is a simple place for some nutritious, quality food during your precious lunch break. For those of you who work in or around Chaowai Soho, 廷香小馆 Lotus Restaurant provides just that. I happened to stumble into this small eatery the other day, and was not only a fan of their authentic Beijing-style dishes, but was surprised to find out that their recipes are actually derived from the royal kitchen, and all at affordable prices to boot.

The yellow oilpaper fan and red seals on it are a subtle nod to the imperial background of this small eatery

Take the elevator of Building A to the sixth floor, turn right followed by an immediate left, and there you will find the star of today’s blog, Lotus Restaurant, sitting at the end of the corridor. Frankly, it's difficult to miss around lunchtime given that it's the most crowded place on the sixth floor, a sea of people tucking into comfort food to get them through the rest of the day. Most patrons opt for the full-set-meal which contains a main course, a seasonal greens dish, a type of grain, and a drink or sweets. What's more, each category features plenty of options. For example, grains include plain white rice, purple rice, fried rice, steamed corn-bread, or even assorted steamed veggies such as sweet potato and pumpkin, at no additional cost. Perhaps most importantly though, every set meal is less than RMB 40, and the quality definitely doesn't suffer for it. All proteins are freshly picked by owners Lianlian and Yongming, which explains why their stewed leg of lamb in clear broth is so tasty, even without much seasoning. On the other hand, it's still a wonder how they can sell it for a mere RMB 33. Moreover, knowing how tight the working class's schedule can be, they always try their best to feed their customers as soon as possible even when the manpower is limited.

Various choices to keep your lunch interesting and nutritious from Monday to Friday

It wasn’t always smooth sailing for Lianlian and Yongming. When they decided to open Lotus Restaurant, neither had any experience in the foodservice industry, however, it turns out that would prove to be the least of their worries. On Jan 1, 2020, they rented out the Chaowai Soho storefront with hopes of opening after the Spring Festival holiday. Unfortunately, as is the case with so many of last year's stories, the best-laid plans often go astray. As COVID-19 continued to spread, the co-owners were forced to reimagine their opening date again and again. Fortunately, just around the time that their operating costs were becoming too much to bear, the government eased dining restrictions, and everything began falling into place. Likewise, the seemingly dire situation was not without its silver lining, because as more and more companies in the area began returning to on-site work, there remained a limited number of restaurants that were open. As one of the only available take-out options around, Lianlian and Yongming were able to make a bit of money while devoting the time they would've spent serving customers and cleaning tables on refining their recipes and the quality of their food, all while growing the ranks of their devoted fan base.

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Lian, the owner of the Lotus Restaurant and her father, who instilled this eatery with its magic

So where exactly do these recipes come from? Well, Lianlian's father used to work for 仿膳 Fangshan Restaurant – the time-honored restaurant located in Beihai Park that's known for serving up imperial dishes – which instilled a sincere passion for food in the future restaurateur. Similarly, her appreciation for traditional cooking methods has grown stronger ever since, especially after working an HR job and realizing just how bland and uninspired her delivery food was. Unfulfilled by both her office lunch and her career, and sensing a lack of truly delicious food in the lunch delivery market, Lianlian decided to open Lotus Restaurant.

Not a single walnut should be taken lightly

Whereas Lianlian generally handles the front-of-house business such as taking orders and chatting with her regular customers, her father is training a new chef with the wok and decades of experience in the kitchen. True to the form of most old Beijingers, Lianlian’s father is proud of the heritage and legacy that he has mastered and is unwavering in his commitment to the principles that guide ancient cooking methods. Whether the customer is a member of the royal family or a bank teller at ICBC, all ingredients need to be treated properly and in a timely manner, and one cannot sacrifice this level of devotion when preparing a dish. For example, every walnut needs to be meticulously rinsed with hot water and then carefully peeled with tweezers to remove the thin layer of skin that creates an unpleasant grainy texture and bitter taste. Likewise, the 抓炒里脊 zhuā chǎo lǐjí glazed deep-fried pork loin should be coated with a dark amber glaze, and the chef must be careful not to leave any extra liquid on the plate.

Glazed deep-fried pork loin, one of the specialties of the Lotus Restaurant

To be sure, good food is one thing. However, when it's accompanied by snobbery and elitism, no amount of deliciousness can erase the bad taste that's left in the mouth. Luckily, Lotus Restaurant doesn't inherit the aloofness and arrogance that you might expect from such a traditional eatery. Rest assured, you will be welcomed by warm smiles and attentive service, even when the place is packed.

Their homemade black sesame puree is worth a try as well

As they get accustomed to handling hectic lunch hours, the couple has even more ambitious plans for the future. As a luxury furniture specialist, Yongming is looking forward to decorating his humble eatery with some more traditional decor from his collection, while Lianlian and her father aim to utilize the slower dinner time to test a new and elevated menu, including venison stew, jasmine silver mushroom soup, and more. Having said that, last year's lessons have also taught them that goals can never be rushed, especially when it comes to traditional culture.

廷香小馆 Lotus Restaurant
Monday-Saturday, 11am-3pm, 5.30-7.30pm. 602 Bldg A, Chaowai SOHO, Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District (13911638581)
朝外大街朝外SOHO A座602