An Antique Museum Like No Other... Plus Cats
advertisement
Beijing holds a special place in the hearts of China's culture gurus, not only because of its historic title as the capital of multiple dynasties but also because of its abundance of museums, and with more than 150 museums around town, some of them can get pretty damn quirky. This time, I want to focus on one of those, in particular, one that is great for folks who are interested in learning about traditional Chinese antiques and artisanship, decorating their home in proper vintage Chinese style, or simply want to hang out with some cats.
Curator and museum owner Ma Weidu with a member of his cat staff
As one of the first private museums in the People's Republic, Guanfu Museum was founded by the renowned Chinese antique collector, Ma Weidu in 1996. Initially located on Liulichang Street in a neighborhood known for its antique stores, the museum moved several times until settling in its current location in Dashanzi in Chaoyang District in 2004.
The drop-out who opened a museum
For a private museum, sometimes getting to know the founder is just as important as learning about what's in the space itself. Often, the charisma and personality of the museum owner is what shapes the entire collection, and is further reflected in each curated piece.
Portraits of the collector as a young man
Ma was born in Beijing in 1955 and grew up in a military compound. But before he could take advantage of the perks of being a "cadre’s offspring" for long, the cultural revolution struck and he had to quit primary school. Yet, the harsh restrictions of his new life and the limited resources available to him couldn’t prevent him from falling in love with literature and traditional Chinese culture. He seized every chance to read the classics, from Evolution and Ethics and Dream in the Red Chamber, all the way through to Jane Eyre during his stay in Northeast China, and subsequent work as a lathe operator after returning to Beijing.
Ma (left) with famed Chinese novelist, Wang Shuo
His life found new direction once he became an editor at China Youth Daily, a position he landed after publishing a serial novel in its pages. He also discovered the work of Wang Shuo, one of the most influential novelists in modern China and an inspiration to numerous young talents who would later become famous Chinese directors and storytellers in their own right, such as Feng Xiaogang and Jiangwen. What's more, Ma was a writer and producer on Stories from the Editorial Board, the first serial TV show in China which aired in 1992.
Ma and his antique collecting mentor, Wang Shixiang
It was during this time that Ma began accumulating a social network – not to mention a bit of wealth – which would allow him to pursue new adventures in antique collection, a pursuit that began as a mere hobby but would soon become his full-time job. See, back in the 80s, China's love and appreciation of ancient arts and crafts were laid to waste by a new desire for trendy imported goods. Therefore, for people who knew their way around the scene, it was possible to purchase vases and furniture from the Qing or Ming Dynasties at astonishingly low prices.
For someone who stopped attending school in the fourth grade, the time Ma spent in the "real world" sharpened his communication skills and eye for quality goods, both of which revealed a bourgeoning future for antique collection in China and deepened his fondness for the practical implements. Moreover, his enthusiasm was unflappable. In fact, according to one story, Ma intended to purchase a television when he got married but ended up spending all RMB 1,600 he had on a porcelain hanging screen his friend was selling. Of course, at the time his wife had some choice words for him, but not long after, buyers from all over China were offering RMB 1 million for the piece.
advertisement
Thanks to efforts from multiple cultures, cloisonné became the pearl on the crown
By the time Ma had opened Guanfu Museum, he had already established a reputation as one of the most outstanding antique collectors in mainland China and an expert in traditional furniture and implements. Obliged to pass on this heritage and let the public have access to these treasures, Ma named his museum Guanfu, a term derived from Lao Tsu's Tao Te Ching that means "seeing through everlasting change," a reminder to learn from the past rather than chase the latest trends.
A small part of the furniture collection displayed at Guanfu Museum
No 3D printers were used during the manufacturing of this door
Currently, the museum has two branches, one in Beijing and one in Shanghai. The capital branch has a large collection of ancient furniture. Ma and his staff have arranged the pieces to recreate the layout that may have furnished the mansion of a noble family. From desk to screens and chairs to bookshelves, if you are looking for inspiration as you decorate your living room with a historic style then this is no doubt a great place to start. Not to mention, you'll get to observe most of these precious pieces close-up, without any glass in between. There are also halls of chinaware, ornamental appliances, and even one specifically for doors and windows that reveal a small yet stunning corner of Chinese craftsmanship history.
An array of blue and white porcelain vessels show how its aesthetics and manufacturing techniques changed throughout history
Tours are conducted in both Chinese and English several times a day, and are free on weekends and other public holidays, with private tours during the week costing RMB 400 for Chinese service and RMB 600 for the English one, both will take around 90 minutes. Likewise, for large group visits and English services, you need to make a reservation at least one day in advance. Conversely, when visiting the museum, you can simply open your WeChat and enter the serial code on the piece you are interested in to see a more detailed introduction to its history.
Varnished wood or porcelain? Take a guess
Fancy carrying this to your next Spring Festival party?
What about the cats then?
If learning about and appreciating the details of extraordinary artisanship isn't enough to lure you in, the feline staff who wander around the museum may be able to persuade you to visit. These furry friends were originally strays that the staff found near the museum. Given that cats and delicate antique furniture don't always mix well, the staff assumed their new co-workers wouldn't last long. But much to everyone's surprise, Ma enthusiastically allowed them to stay and even appointed them as ambassadors of the museum.
Employee portraits of Guanfu Museum's cat-bassadors
Ma is a long-time cat lover, but he also figured that keeping a few kitties around the courtyard would add a lively vibe to the place and attract more visitors, especially kids. So far, 36 registered cat-bassadors are living in the courtyard of the Guanfu Museum. Guests are encouraged to play with them and take photos, although only the staff are allowed to enter their homes. You can follow their account 观复猫 on Weibo for the latest updates.
The museum is open seven days a week – besides Spring Festival Eve and the following three days. Tickets are RMB 100 per person but if you purchase them on WeChat (ID: guanfumuseum – needs to be done at least one day ahead of your visit) you can get a discounted rate of RMB 88, and seniors (60+), students (undergrads and lower,) kids under 1.3 meters in height, teachers, Chinese military, and people with disabilities can enter with a half-price ticket. You can take photos with your phone but not with specialized cameras within the exhibition areas, and you can use a baby trolley as long as you keep it away from the collections. The museum does not offer any food within its premises but has free water and tea for visitors.
Would you believe us if we told you this is an ancient pillow? Well, we're telling you.
READ: Spring Is (Almost) Here: Where To Feel the Change of Seasons Around Beijing
Images: Zeus Zou, Guanfu Museum, Guanfu Cat, Weibo, Zhihu, Sohu
advertisement
Beijingers Are Buzzing About