Local Gem: Can Shanghainese Find Culinary Peace in Beijing?
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Local Gem is an exploration of Beijing’s diverse palate. Get out of your comfort zone and try something new! To share your own neighborhood pride, please contact us via editor@thebeijinger.com
It’s no secret that Beijingers and Shanghainese have a fraught and complicated relationship. However, as the country's two largest metropolises, movement between them is inevitable. That is, there's plenty of Shanghai locals who find themselves relocating to Beijing for one reason or another, and for them, nothing cuts through the heartache of nostalgia like a little taste of home. Admittedly, Beijing isn't known for its authentic Shanghai cuisine options. Likewise, what we do have is either so fancy that the price tag far exceeds one's desire for a humble nostalgic meal, or it's soulless average food that lacks warmth and personality.
All of this begs the question: Are the elite Shanghainese – glass of whisky in hand – right to curse Beijing as a "cuisine desert?"
The answer is a resounding no, they are not right to curse Beijing. First of all, because Beijing is utterly amazing and we all know it. But secondly, because the God of Culinary Delights, in his or her infinite wisdom, has blessed the Shanghainese of Beijing.
The distance between Beijing and Shanghai has never been closer.
A friend of mine recently referred me to a hidden eatery run by a private chef, 闹忙 Naomang – which means "joyful hustling" in Shanghai's dialect – who infuses the sights and smells of old-time Shanghai into recipes he inherited from his mom. According to the man himself, his origin story is none too exceptional, he's simply a resourceful fellow who took up cooking because, as a single man, he needed to feed himself. Though his culinary career only began in 2015 – one year before he decided to open a business –thanks to his sophisticated palate and appreciation for flavors that he had nurtured as a kid, his family recipes quickly became the talk of the town amongst industry insiders and professional gourmets. To truly understand Naomang though, you have to know that he is also a professional tailor and suit designer and that initially, he planned on utilizing his cooking skills to develop new fashion clients. At the time, he was toiling away in the kitchen of a Japanese restaurant after they closed up for the day. Unfortunately, however, he went off the radar shortly thereafter. Due to the investigative work of one serious devotee, he was later tracked down at a new location in Xiandaicheng Soho. It should be noted that generally speaking, Naomang is hesitant to give interviews. Due to the impact of COVID-19, though, he's eased up a little.
Whether it's tailoring or cooking, both benefit from Naomang's craftsmanship and passion
If you are a loyal user of Dianping and make your dinner decisions based on what has the highest reviews, chances are you're going to miss this treasure. Likewise, even if you're standing right in front of its door, chances are you'll still miss it. The place has no neon lights or signage, doesn't advertise, and their Dianping page was created by a single fan, but alas, has only one comment which resulted in a 3.5 score (thanks to snobbish, undiscerning algorithms). So how can a place like this survive in an industry that thrives on exposure and the coveted KOL stamp of approval? The answer is simple, unparalleled food and genuine friendship between diner and chef.
No amount of words or glossy photos can do this dish justice. You need to go try it yourself
If your experience with Shanghainese cuisine is limited to a couple of restaurants here and there, then Naomang will redefine your conception of the region's tastes by preparing dishes with a certain level of care and tenderness. Interestingly, the menu doesn't feature any rare or particularly innovative items, but one doesn’t need to be a well-trained foodie to taste the difference between his offerings and those of other restaurants. For instance, shortly before visiting Naomang's place I had braised duck with soy sauce at a local restaurant that is, for all intents and purposes, well-regarded. Needless to say, it was incredibly dry – despite an abundance of fat – salty, and tasted as though the duck hadn't been treated properly. Meanwhile, the one at Naomang’s place was basically a work of art. The duck meat was succulent, having marinated and braised in the soy sauce for just the right amount of time, giving the dish a dazzling obsidian color. It was a well-balanced dance of savory and sweet notes, with a dash of herbs and spices. For better or worse, this heavenly treat can't always be found on the menu since Naomang only uses female ducks with a generous portion of protein and fat, each of which needs at least four hours to braise. So if you're one of the lucky ones to sink your teeth into this masterpiece, be grateful, and give it the time and respect it deserves.
Take your palate out for a tour of the fields
Another favorite was the stir-fried rice cake which, in all sincerity, might put you off other, plain rice cake dishes forevermore. It's tender and soft, without being too mushy or sticking to your teeth. The shepherd’s purse in particular lights up the dish and evokes the advent of spring, bolstered by a delicate grease that adds another layer of fragrance all its own.
Stire-fried sweet water eel, my first impression of Shanghainese cuisine as a kid
Most of the dishes on the menu rotate based on the mood of the chef and the quality of the seasonal ingredients. Naomang purchases his ingredients from the Northern Suzhou market, a market that's better suited to recreating the tastes of his family recipes than anything found in Beijing.
When everyone else is stuck in traffic after work, you can enjoy a commanding nighttime view of Chaoyang alongside some great food
The restaurant – which is closed on Sundays – opens at 6.30pm during winter, and 8pm beginning around May, though you always need to wait till 9pm on the weekends. That said, it does stay open until midnight. Though the schedule is slightly unpredictable, it's also entirely unique and the perfect place to dig into some late-night comfort food after a long day of work, or meeting up with friends you haven't seen in a while since Naomang encourages customers to BYOB. If the dishes on the menu leave you wanting more, you can always reserve a special private banquet on Fridays or Saturdays, with three days' advance notice. It can accommodate six to 12 guests and starts at RMB 598 per person. The menu is largely contingent upon the number of guests and the season, but Naomang is open to suggestions, willing to accommodate outside of his normal operating hours, and takes place at a location different from his usual digs.
A rare treat that's worth the wait. But maybe you should think twice about driving after gorging yourself on it
Recently, Naomang told me that even though the pandemic has changed many things, he still wants to keep his private kitchen as a side-hustle, while trying to find new ways to integrate it with his tailoring business. However, that's a story for a later time. For now, we're both just eager to try the drunken crab – liquor preserved crab – that he prepared last month.
闹忙镖局 Naomang's Late-night Cafeteria
Winter, 6.30pm-midnight (Mon-Thurs); Summer, 8pm-midnight (Mon-Thur); 9pm-2am (Fri & Sat). No.2912 Bldg. A, Xiandaicheng SOHO, Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国路现代城SOHO A座2912
Read: Local Gem: Eat Like an Emperor... for Lunch!
Images: Zeus Zou, Naomang
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