20 for 20: Michelle Hemsin of Bodhi Therapeudic Retreat

Original Drew Pittock theBeijinger

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In celebration of our 20th anniversary, we're profiling 20 movers and shakers who, much like The Beijinger, have called the capital home for 20 years or more.

Michelle Hemsin knows a thing or two about expat life. Born and raised in Thailand, she grew up a third-culture-kid, attending Bangkok’s French school. Then, in 2000, at the insistence of her father she traveled to Beijing under the pretense of learning Chinese. Uninterested in the offer, she planned on staying for six months at most. Much to the surprise of both her and her family, however, she fell in love, and by 2004, she had opened Bodhi Therapeutic Retreat in Sanlitun, with the aim of bringing “physical solace to [her] fellow Beijingers in a clean and modest environment.” Now, Hemsin is celebrating her 20th anniversary in the capital, and the 17th for her beloved Bodhi.

In front of Tian'anmen on National Day, 2000

What brought you to Beijing, and when?
My dad sent me to learn Chinese back in February 2000 after graduation from college in Sydney. He wanted me to stay for one year, I negotiated it down to 6 months.

What were some of your first impressions of the city?
Majestic, bustling, unsophisticated, opportunities.

Did you imagine at that time that you’d still be here 20 years later?
No way, would I [have] imagined that I would put down roots and still be here after 20 years.

Visiting the first Datong Beijing duck restaurant with the parents

Tell us about one of your quintessential first experiences in the city
Service: I was in a big state-owned supermarket in Wudaokou and asked the sales lady if I could take a look at the face lotion that was behind the glass counter. She looked at me, [and] asked if I intended to buy it or not. No need to look if I wasn’t going to buy it. Shock for someone coming from the Land of Smiles.

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Tell us a little more about Bodhi. Why were you inspired to start it and what sets it apart from, say, a regular spa?
When SARS hit in 2003, I was working in an international advertising agency in Beijing. Fearing for my health, my father re-called me back to Bangkok. While back in Thailand, I was browsing the Job Ads, knowing that I no longer wanted to help big companies make more money. I came upon spa positions which seemed to be abundant back then. The idea of soothing music, candles and massages sounded like a relaxing environment to work in. With no previous background in the industry, I was recruited by a prominent player in the field, sent to Phuket for a few months of training and shipped off to manage their hotel spa in Shanghai.

During that time, my then boyfriend kept asking me to come back to Beijing. I told him that I had to live where I work. He said “Alright, come back and I will open a spa for you”.

Outside Silk Market with friends from BLCU when it was in an alley behind the US Embassy

When my contract was over and I returned to Beijing, Bodhi was renovated, staffed and ready to run. I incorporated Chinese style massages (which then could only be found in cheap, TCM places or blind parlors) with aromatherapy massages and spa treatments (which then could only be found in very expensive five start hotels) and Thai massages into a niche boutique retreat with clean, Asian-style decor at a mid-point price.People came to us tired and sore and departed rested and relaxed. I feel this is my contribution to the community, to help them feel better. In my conscious, it felt much better than working in an agency, so 17 years on, Bodhi is still here to work on your knots so that each generation can have a place to physically unwind.

What the main reason why Beijing continues to be a draw for you to this day?
The ever constant rapid development of this incredible city. When I landed in 2000, 4th ring road was under construction, bicycles outnumbered cars, donkeys [could] still be seen on the roads and mianbao che was 1 kuai to get from Wudaokou to Chaoyang. Then Beijing witnessed SARS, winning the Olympic bid, the rise of the CBD, the 2008 Olympics, 5th and 6th ring roads, property boom, Taobao, WeChat and now Covid, RED and Universal Studios.…Such a huge transformation! My career, business and life can be traced alongside Beijing’s history.

What are your three favorite spots in Beijing for a bit of mindful relaxation?
My favorite spot to relax is... sitting on our swinging bench and looking out at our garden in the morning with a cup of coffee or a glass of Pinot at the end of the day when the weather allows it. My husband spends time tending to the roses or watering the walnut tree, ginkgo and maple trees.

We like to head into the countryside, to Yangqi Lake in Huairou for the beautiful autumn colors, the frozen Baihe River in Miyun or the cool air in the vigneyards of Yanqing in summer.

Strolling in the hutongs in the morning feels peaceful. You feel immersed in this sense of history that is so unique to Beijing.

Outside Beijing's Underground City with friends

Are you still doing what you came here to do, 20 years ago?
I came to learn Chinese and although it is no longer my main focus, I still learn about the language, the Chinese culture, geography and history from living my life here.