Will LOKAL Fill Wagas' Sanlitun Shoes?

Wagas Sanlitun is dead, long live LOKAL by Wagas? LOKAL— Wagas' cousin brand that also dishes out healthy bites — is getting ready to open its doors right where Wagas used to be in Taikooli, all set to open on Jan 28.

LOKAL, part of the Wagas family, is set to open shortly

The city's appetite for nutritious grub is growing, with places like Food Bowl and Avocado Tree popping up everywhere. Beijingers are really getting into the habit, making it part of their everyday eats. To put it into perspective, a Meituan report notes that the local market for light food blasted past the RMB 100 billion milestone in 2022, with Beijing taking the number two spot for its number of health-centric eateries.

Popping into the Wagas Chaowai branch to see how it's holding up, we spotted mostly young professionals dining at the location for lunch. It's become more than just a spot for a quick salad; folks are sticking around for an extra coffee and some chill time or a friendly chat after their meal.

The place wasn't packed to the brim, and sure, there were a few empty seats, but the overall buzz fits right in with Wagas' cool, minimalist Scandinavian style.

Wagas is a favorite spot for young professionals to relax and chat with friends

Wagas Receives a Mixed Bag of Reviews

Wagas' journey as a healthy food spot hasn't been without its hurdles. Chatting with some local food enthusiasts, we've heard mixed reviews. For some, Wagas is more of a seasonal fling. "I tend to order from Wagas in the summer or when I'm on a fitness kick, but honestly, it's not my everyday choice because it can hit the wallet pretty hard," one local told us.

The Wagas Chaowai branch boasts a trendy atmosphere

Justin, another resident, said, "I haven't been frequenting Wagas much lately. It turns out I can whip up similar dishes at home without much fuss. And when convenience calls, Food Bowl is just around the corner."

Competitors like Foodbowl have joined the light food market

Xiaohan, weighing in on the topic, finds Wagas to be the go-to for a lighter lunch, especially after an indulgent dinner or when the office crowd leans towards a healthier phase — like an unexpected milk tea overload or sudden health kicks from the boss. "These instances come around now and then, but it's not a daily thing for me," he admits.

James, a long-term Beijing resident, shares his fondness for Wagas. "I've been ordering from Wagas for five years now, and it's been a great option. It's always very handy when you want something that strikes a balance between being relatively healthy and tasty," he remarks.

This sentiment, however, contrasts with another local's perspective. A different Beijinger, who typically indulges in Chinese cuisine for a good 60 percent of her meals, also appreciates the lighter options on her work menu. Still, she notes that "With a whole spectrum of choices out there, including Hema Fresh, Wagas doesn't always stand out. I get that they're about health, yet sometimes the flavors just don't dance on the tongue as I'd like them to."

From Expat Dreams to Culinary Realms

Wagas, the beacon for the health-minded and the hungry, has carved a niche in Shanghai's heart since 1999, thanks to a Danish expat's hankering for a hearty sandwich. John Christensen craved a taste of home in a bustling city where such comfort was as elusive as a tranquil moment on the Bund. His quest led to the birth of Wagas, a haven for those seeking a Western culinary embrace.

The Wagas journey really took off when an Australian expat, Jackie, with dreams of infusing Shanghai with Sydney's dining finesse, joined forces with John. By 2001, their combined passions and visions had fermented, and Jackie became not just an ally but a co-creator of the burgeoning Wagas story.

Wagas has been a fixture in China for many years

Flourishing over two decades, Wagas has extended its reach, evolving from a quaint café to an acclaimed chain for the discerning diner in pursuit of fresh salads, hearty pasta, scrumptious sandwiches, zesty juices, and a robust coffee experience.

The brand has also branched out with a variety of sub-brands, each radiating its own vibe. There's Baker & Spice, the laid-back haunt for any time of day; Dunk & Kale, the avant-garde nook for the bold; and LOKAL, the bistro bar stirring up excitement. Together, they whip up a feast of European baked goods and fusion cuisine with a Southeast Asian twist. 

Wagas is known for its signature salads

Wagas Rides the Wave of Health Cuisine

As the trend for fresh, nutritious cuisine burgeons, the dining scene has welcomed a slew of contenders. Salad Fields and Califorks have emerged in the capital, vying for the attention of the health-aware, and even fast-food titan KFC has dipped its toes into the trend with KPRO. Meanwhile, traditional Chinese light and healthy dishes, known as 中式轻食 zhōngshì qīng shí, featuring homestyle 番茄炒蛋 fānqié chǎo dàn (tomato and eggs) and savory 蚝油青菜 háoyóu qīngcài (green vegetables in oyster sauce), have established a firm foothold in the light-food market realm.

Light and healthy Chinese dishes are gaining popularity

Through the ebb and flow of the culinary waters, Wagas has weathered its fair share of squalls, particularly during the ravaging storm of the 2020 pandemic. The food service sector was upended, with a flurry of acquisitions and the unfortunate folding of some establishments, including the notable Element Fresh.

In 2022, Advent International, eyeing the evolving landscape, made a calculative move by acquiring a major stake in Wagas. The investment hinged on the belief that Wagas' offering of premium, casual dining would align with the growing consumer interest in health and wellness. 

Following the significant investment by Advent International in 2022, Wagas leveraged this new partnership to expand its reach within the food industry. In the same year, the company embarked on an ambitious growth plan, inaugurating 14 new branches. This expansion included strengthening its presence in the capital city by opening three additional outlets in Beijing.

The future success of LOKAL remains to be seen with time

Today, with over 200 branches to its name and a robust cluster of more than 40 in Beijing, Wagas is in a constant dance of adaptation. The closure of their Sanlitun location has been shrouded in speculation, with rumors of lackluster results whispering through the city haze. Nonetheless, anticipation builds for LOKAL, Wagas' fresh-faced sibling, poised to make its mark in the capital's rich dining landscape.

Will this new venture flourish in the city's competitive terrain? Time will tell as patrons and critics alike watch LOKAL's journey with keen interest.

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Images: Irene Li, Courtesy of the venue

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