Restaurant Review: Pelikan

By Dominic Ngai

The Place
When you search for the term ‘Nordic cuisine’ on Google, names like ‘Rene Redzepi,’ his Copenhagen restaurant ‘Noma’ and various articles on ‘New Nordic Cuisine Movement’ started by Noma cofounder Claus Meyer and chefs from the region in 2004 would pop up. These names and Pelikan’s head chef Kasper Pedersen have one thing in common – they’re all from Denmark.
Backed by the folks behind Wagas and Mr Willis, Pelikan is a new and chirpy restaurant replacing La Poste on Xikang Lu. Foot traffic in this part of Jing’an is scarce; unless you live in one of the compounds nearby, you’d almost never come here. But even so, Pelikan has attracted flocks of curious diners flying in to see what this ‘Nordic Casual Dining’ concept is all about.

The Food
New Nordic cuisine isn’t really defined by a specific flavor profile; but rather, its emphasis is on using local and seasonal ingredients to create simple and fresh flavor combinations on a plate. Pedersen’s attempt of recreating this experience at Pelikan works – to a certain extent.

Instead of the regular breadbasket, a small plate of baby carrots and radishes paired with a refreshing herb dip that tastes of yogurt and dill starts off the meal, setting the tone for the clean, nutritious delicate plates to come.
Another simple yet creative dish is the grilled bread with melted butter and yogurt (RMB38). Who knew Chinese steamed buns can taste so moreish with just a few additional touches?
The charred beets with beurre blanc (RMB56) showcases Chef Pedersen’s thoughtfulness. Served in various forms – roasted, puréed and thinly sliced – it highlights the versatility of beets while vibrant shades of red remind us of autumn leaves in Canada (where Pedersen once worked).

Even with all of its pungent descriptors in the name, the tea smoked raw beef with horseradish (RMB98) tastes more delicate than we had expected. Hints of smokiness and a mild zing of heat worked well to complement the protein in a subtle manner.
You’ll find the same subtlety in the marinated scallop and cucumber (RMB78) and the asparagus with poached shrimp and radishes (RMB88, above).
These dishes, however, are almost too light and timid for us. Perhaps they needed a punch from the pungent grilled leeks and peas (RMB56)? Or maybe those perfectly crispy hasselback roast potatoes (RMB48) to add some weight?
While brief, the dessert menu has a couple of our favorite dishes at Pelikan. The first bite of the playful orange and carrot sorbet with hazelnuts (RMB52) immediately recalls flavors of orange creamsicle and Ferrero Rocher.
‘Danish beer bread’ isn’t normally associated with desserts, but when paired with raspberry and white chocolate (RMB58), it’s a balanced mouthful of bitterness, acidity and sweetness.

Food verdict: 2.5/3

The Vibe
No matter where you are seated, most tables offer a clear view of the open kitchen, where you’ll find Chef Pedersen expediting service or putting final touches on his dishes.
He is Pelikan’s centerpiece and has full creative control over the menu. You can feel his presence throughout the meal, as he moves in and out of the dining room, personally presenting his plates and speaking to guests. (It’s also a great marketing strategy, as our neighbors kept commenting on how shuai the chef is every time he makes an appearance in our vicinity.) In terms of décor, the dining room’s wood furniture establishes the ‘casual’ part of the concept quite well, but all the bright colors and painted vegetation on the walls give off a tropical vibe rather than ‘Nordic.’  
Vibe verdict: 0.5/1

Value for Money
Pelikan’s chef’s menu (10 courses at dinner for RMB300 per person; four courses at lunch for RMB142 per person) is a good way to sample all of its gems. If you order a la carte, portions are a bit small so you’ll need to get four or five dishes to share between two people.
Value for money: 1/1

Total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB250-300 per person
Who's going: office workers or residents nearby, cool kids before a night-out, girls (or boys) who like hot chefs
Good for: casual lunch or dinner, small group dinners, dates

Pelikan, 225 Xikang Lu, by Beijing Xi Lu

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