Restaurant Review: Pera Turkish Cuisine
By Betty Richardson
The Place
From the folks who established Shanghai staple Pasha comes Pera, installed inside the very much fully-fledged Found 158 complex, now packing crowds that rival the busy Turkish streets from which the restaurant takes its name.
The match seems a congruous one. Pera’s approach to dining isn’t new-fangled, and when the weather’s nice you can easily pass the time sitting outside in the shade watching the inhabitants of Found 158 go about their business.
The Food
The menu is long and faintly confusing (appetizers and mains seem arbitrarily distributed), but by accounts from Turks who dined with us, during summer it’s proper to dine on mezze appetizers, fish mains, and (sneakily potent!) raki to wash it down. Meat kebabs and doners are for wintertime, you barbarian.
We try to adhere to this rule on our first visit but give up on the second, because Pera’s meat is simply better than its fish and seafood.
Another secret weapon is the gently tart strained homemade yoghurt, thick in a classy way like crème fraiche. This manages to sneak into a number of mezze in the form of dips and sauces, though it is definitely good enough to be eaten on its own. Our favorite is cevizli kabak (RMB45, above), yoghurt with chipped dill, yoghurt, zucchini, garlic and olive oil.
Koz kurmizi biber (RMB42) is another flavorsome starter, a simple marinade of red peppers with garlic and olive oil. We were also feeling the crunchy zucchini fritters (mücver, RMB58), also with yoghurt.
Neat little dolmasi (vine leaves stuffed with rice and minced meat, RMB68) are another must-order, served warm and topped with more of that luscious yoghurt.
Lamb and beef kofte (RMB98), is a generous portion of well-seasoned mince, served with sticky and salty rice.
It’s good with potatoes and unmemorable vegetables, but it comes to life when matched instead with yoghurt and peppers instead. Same with the tavuk sis (chicken shish kebab, RMB98).
Food Verdict: 2/3
The Vibe
Pera seems more old school than its trendier neighbors with their marketing angles keenly sharpened like javelins, honed to keep the revenue flowing with drink money after the dinner rush is done. What the Turks keep secret is that their own raki will get you wasted far quicker (and cheaper) than a drunken Brit scarfing a doner.
To be honest, you’ll probably need one after you’re done with a bottle (or when the bottle is done with you, depending on your mettle). Luckily, Pera will oblige in the form of a kebab window outside, starting from 10.30pm until 5am.
Vibe verdict: 1.5/2
Total Verdict: 3.5/5
Price: RMB150-250 per person
Who’s going: Turkish expats, Found 158 wanderers
Good for: Turkish food, groups, casual dining
Pera Turkish Cuisine, 158 Julu Lu, by Ruijin Yi Lu 巨鹿路158号，近瑞金一路
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