Bar Review: Wonderland
By Betty Richardson
A bar that’s enjoyed nuggets of favorable media attention since opening in April, Wonderlandis one of the most interesting new concepts this season, but after visiting in the flesh we’ve concluded that it’s more for its head-scratching weirdness.
The brainchild of Johan Holmberg, a mixologist whose affordable and tasty cocktails have helped secure awards at Donghu Lu bar The Parrot, and raucous popularity at the new Funkadeli on Fumin Lu, Wonderland is conceived as boozy homage to Alice in Wonderland. The staff wear t-shirts blazoned with the Carrollian maxim “We’re all mad here,” but they seem sane compared to the bonkers setting.
Perhaps a list is the most effective way to convey Wonderland’s oddities: a well-trampled carpet (circa 1986), white faux fur-covered walls, a bathtub filled with beer tinnies...
A Taobao Louis XV-style dining table with oversize playing cards and tea set, a live rabbit in a cage with a football, plastic gold coaster doilies, dozens of plastic butterflies, a cactus with a Swedish flag stuck in it … we could go on.
Put simply, it’s a lot of design features that seem like they'd be a good idea when you're high in one space – apart from the nice wall mural, featuring Johnny Depp’s Mad Hatter with a slightly nervous smile on his face. There’ll be no escape for you, Johnny...
In amongst the madness, there are cocktails. The good: a Jameson whisky Strawberry Sour (RMB65) reminiscent of Haribo Strawbs – our favorite of the gummy candy lineage.
The bad: a funky-tasting Olmeca tequila Paloma (RMB65) from a margarita machine.
The ugly: a Mushroom Garden (RMB65) with gin, mint, lime, bitters, and raw mushroom garnish; though in fairness this was less mushroom more mojito that’s spent a while in a blender.
As ridiculous as Wonderland is, we can’t in good conscience dismiss it on the grounds of appearance. Yes, it is ramshackle and slightly musty, but by God, the place has personality and a sense of humor. And it’s true what they say: personality goes a long way.
Price: Drinks from RMB65
Who’s going: locals and expats
Good for: whimsical cocktails, the insane, people who don't take things too seriously
Wonderland Bar, 1311 Xinzha Lu, by Shaanxi Bei Lu 新闸路1311号，近陕西北路
For more Shanghai bar reviews, click "Read more" below.