By Dominic Ngai

The Place

Two years ago, it would’ve been a bad idea for Man Long Chun to set up shop on Yongkang Lu. Designed as if it were a 1960s Hong Kong-style diner stage set for a scene from In the Mood for Love, the restaurant is pretty much the antithesis of the street’s former boozy tenants and their rowdy following.

Fast-forward to 2018, and things have changed. Quaint lifestyle boutiques and artisanal cafes have replaced many Yongkang watering holes of all shapes, and now Man Long Chun makes perfect sense here. In fact, the place has already reached wanghong status and the wait time for lunch on the weekends can easily surpass 45 minutes, partly thanks to the restaurant’s small number of seats and tables.

The Food

What’s so special about this place, you may ask? It’s successfully tapping into one thing that has remained constant for more than a century in this city: the love of xiaolongbao. With five renditions of the quintessential Shanghainese steamed soup dumplings, the crab roe variety (RMB48/128 for two/six) is the one that’s responsible for Man Long Chun’s huge following.

Filled entirely with an explosive amount of creamy, golden goodness as if they were scooped directly from a hairy crab’s shell, the obscene price tag seems almost justifiable. (Cue Instagram Story Superzoom function!)

Looking for something lighter? The flavors and textures of the shrimp and shrimp roe number (RMB30 for six) reminded us of hargau rather than xiaolongbao – a nice shoutout to its Cantonese cousin. Feeling adventurous? Sichuan pepper and chicken flavored soup dumplings (RMB25 for six) sound good on paper, right? While there’s a nice numbing kick to the filling, the loose texture of the chicken meatball turned the exciting flavors into a mushy disappointment.

Several simple dishes round out a small and concise menu, and the hot sour soup (RMB28) was a popular choice that appeared on many of our neighbors’ tables. Man Long Chun’s rendition, which was probably thickened with cornstarch like in many similar joints around town, reminded us why we’ve never really enjoyed the dish. 

Food Verdict: 2/3

The Vibe

Dining at Man Long Chun can be a really pleasant experience. During a weekday lunch, courteous servers gave recommendations based on diners’ likes and dislikes and carried out friendly conversations with them in the local dialect as if they’ve known each other for years. Or, it could also be a stress-inducing activity on a Saturday afternoon, where verbal fights between impatient diners break out as you’re leisurely slurping your xiaolongbao and making a video for your WeChat Moments. Like many things in life, it’s all about timing. 
Vibe Verdict: 1/2

Total Verdict: 3/5

Price: RMB70-100 per person
Who’s going: locals, xiaolongbao lovers, social media-savvy diners
Good for: stuffing your face with soup dumplings

Man Long Chun, 73 Yongkang Lu, by Xiangyang Nan Lu 永康路73号, 近襄阳南路

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