By Dominic Ngai

After dozens of runway shows, presentation and parties, here are the highlights from this season's Shanghai Fashion Week.

FFIXXED Studios

With a concept all about clothing that adapts to the conditions of contemporary living, designers Fiona Lau and Kain Picken looked to packing tape as the impetus of their AW18 collection. Models were seen wearing dresses and pants with pieces of brown tape that appeared to be holding pieces of fabric together, as well as large tinfoil earrings that are patched up in several places with the same material. Elsewhere in the collection, you’ll also find pieces with slouchy silhouette, burgundy gingham prints and interesting draping techniques that the label is known for.

Private Policy

Using Charlie Chaplin’s political satire The Great Dictator as the inspiration of their new collection, designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu incorporated plenty military wear influence to echo the film’s WWII-era setting. Besides camouflage print, navy green pieces and bomber jackets, they have also included subtle references in the forms of strapped pouches that are shaped like gun holsters, and leather harnesses for jumpsuits and outerwear. Slogans like “War Is Over” and “Give Peace a Chance” were projected onto the runway, and the designers’ overarching anti-war message was amplified by John Lennon’s ‘Imagine’ as background music.

Samuel Gui Yang

Belgian painter Rene Magritte’s ‘The Female Thief’ served as the inspiration behind Samuel Yang’s AW18 collection. While many young designers shy away from referencing traditional Chinese garment in their creations, the Shenzhen-born, London-based Central Saint Martins graduate embraced the silhouettes and details of the qipao and Mao suit jackets by putting his own modern interpretation on them with materials like Scottish Harris tweed. 

Shushu/Tong

With an elegant backdrop of nicely arranged flowers, a pile of classic literature and a soundtrack featuring Chinese songstresses from the 1930s, designers Lei Liushu and Jiang Yutong spiced up the traditional girls’ school uniform with plenty of feminine touches such as ruffle sleeves, though a glimpse of the girls’ rebellious side can be seen through packets of cigarettes that are hidden in their clothing and accessories. The collection also includes 19 knitwear pieces made with high quality cashmere from Inner Mongolia, which is the Shanghai-based duo’s first attempt to integrate knitting techniques so prominently into their creations.

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