Restaurant Review: Baoism
The place
The humble baozi has more or less taken a backseat in the modern pantheon of Chinese dining, but recent culinary trends have elevated the steamed bun from its role as a breakfast staple, most notably at hipster-centric eateries like Hong Kong’s Little Bao, David Chang’s Momofuku and Eddie Huang’s Baohaus in New York.
Keen to ride this wave into the Chinese market, Baoism was initiated as a pop-up concept by Shanghai-based foodies Alex Xu and Jenny Gao. Offering "modern Chinese street food," Baoism now has a permanent home in the Hubin Dao Mall.
The food
Catering to a fast-moving crowd of white-collar locals, Baoism’s menu pushes a RMB45 set meal, for which you get two baos of your choosing plus two side dishes.
Wrapped inside a warm, just-steamed bun, signature hongshao rou (braised fatty pork, 红烧肉) is the must-order item here, entailing a deliciously long-stewed meat filling mixed with peanuts, cucumbers and a sprinkling of salad.
The Korean fried chicken bao is a great concept, but in practice a little tricky to eat. For vegans, Baoism offer black pepper tofu, and for pescatarians, a good okonomiyaki number.
Side options include refreshing Chengdu-style chicken with stem leaf lettuce, roasted Xinjiang eggplant, spicy mapo rice cakes, lotus root chips and more.
We especially liked the onsen egg scallion oil noodles, a judicious and tasteful update of this easily ruined Shanghainese classic.
The vibe
Interiors are simple and function for fast-paced meals – high stools, long wooden tables and a semi-open kitchen, that’s all. Bear in mind this canteen-like space is always packed during lunchtime as office workers drop by.
Vibe verdict: 0.5/1
Value for money
Bustling and occasionally noisy, Baoism isn’t a place to linger, but it is a good choice for a brisk, wholesome lunch or casual dinner, and especially for the RMB45 price tag. Anticipate more menu items arriving in the near future.
Value for money: 1/1
TOTAL VERDICT: 3.5/5
Price: RMB45 for sets
Who’s going: office workers, locals and expats
Good for: quick lunch/dinner, casual eats.
// Baoism, E30, B2, 150 Hubin Lu, by Ji’nan Lu.
by Tongfei Zhang
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