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不花大价钱,也可享受奢华假期

纽约时报中文网 NYT教育频道 前天

伦敦眼摩天轮很贵,但想要一览这座城市的全貌,有更便宜的方式。 TOM JAMIESON FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

Why pay top dollar for a luxury vacation when it’s possible to have it for less? A high-end trip without a premium price tag is possible anywhere in the world, but your approach needs to be tailored to your destination. Here, locals in five famously expensive cities — London, Paris, San Francisco, Singapore and Sydney — share luxury for less tips.

如果可以少花钱,为何要花一大笔去享受奢华度假呢?去世界任何地方赴一场没有高昂价签的高端旅行都是有可能的,但需要根据目的地量身定制。伦敦、巴黎、旧金山、新加坡和悉尼是五个以昂贵闻名的城市,下面,来自这五个地方的人就来分享他们奢华度假的省钱妙招。

LONDON

伦敦

Time It Right

把握好时机

London has some particularly busy periods with sky-high hotel rates, according to Paula Fitzherbert, a lifelong Londoner and the head of communications for the five-star hotels Claridge’s, Connaught and Berkeley. They include June, during the Chelsea Flower Show, Ascot and Wimbledon, and the fashion weeks in February and September. These times asides, rates are least expensive on Sunday nights when occupancy is at its lowest. “A stay could be half the price, compared with another day of the week and you’re likely to get free amenities,” Fitzherbert said. The properties she represents try to offer Sunday night guests extras such as a bottle of Champagne, breakfast and a room upgrade.

地道的伦敦人、五星级酒店克拉里奇(Claridge’s)、康诺特(Connaught)和伯凯丽(Berkeley)媒体总监葆拉·菲茨赫伯特(Paula Fitzherbert)表示,伦敦有一些特别繁忙的旺季,酒店房价极高。这包括6月,期间有切尔西花展、皇家赛马会和温布尔登网球公开赛,以及2月和9月的时装周。除这些时期外,周日晚入住率最低,价格也最优惠。“比起一周其他几天,这时候入住有可能享受半价,还有机会享受免费设施,”菲茨赫伯特说。她所代表的这些酒店会设法给周日晚客人提供额外服务,比如一瓶香槟、免费早餐和房间升级。

James Manning, the global projects editor for Time Out London, encourages visiting either at the end of August or anytime in November. Flights and hotels are less expensive, and several noteworthy and free events take place. One of the largest street festivals in Europe, Notting Hill Carnival, is in August.

《Time Out》伦敦版的全球项目编辑詹姆斯·曼宁(James Manning)建议,要去伦敦就选择8月底或11月全月。那时的机票和酒店费用较低,还有多个值得关注且免费的活动。欧洲最大的街头节日诺丁山狂欢节便在8月。

Dine and Drink Smartly

巧妙安排餐食

Skip white tablecloth dining. Manning said that some of London’s casual and affordable restaurants, such as the Taiwanese spot Xu, outperform many expensive Michelin-recognized joints in atmosphere and flavor. To indulge in decadent cuisine for a bargain, head to a food hall in a luxury department store like Harrods or Selfridges, Fitzherbert said (she does, too). “You can buy small portions of rare cheeses and handmade chocolates, and the stores often give out free samples on weekends,” she said. She also suggested taking advantage of the widely available and attractively priced pre- and post-theater menus at otherwise expensive restaurants like The Ivy and Savoy Grill and enjoying an evening drink at an upscale bar like the Connaught Bar for less than $20 — an order usually comes with olives, nuts and other snacks.

跳过高档餐厅。曼宁说,伦敦一些休闲而实惠的餐厅,比如台湾茶餐厅许儒华苑(Xu),就氛围和口味而言,表现优于许多米其林星级餐厅。菲茨赫伯特说,若想低价享受奢靡美食,可以前往哈罗德(Harrods)或塞尔弗里奇百货公司(Selfridges)的食品区(也是她本人的选择)。“你可以买小份不常见的奶酪和手工巧克力,里面的商店周末还经常提供免费试吃,”她说。她还建议在常春藤(The Ivy)和萨沃伊(Savoy Grill)等其他昂贵餐厅利用一下常见且价格优惠的看戏前和看戏后菜单,并在康诺特吧(Connaught Bar)这样的高档酒吧享用一杯晚间饮品,价格不到20美元——通常配橄榄、坚果和其他小食。

Find Free or Cheap Culture

免费或低价文化游览

Admission to most major museums, such as the Tate Modern, is free (special exhibitions usually have a fee), and venues such as Southbank Centre and Royal Opera House have free regular drop-in performances. (Time Out has a weekly update of the best free things to do in London). Most West End theaters release reduced price tickets (usually around $25) each morning for performances that evening. Fitzherbert also recommended trying an Off West-End show. Tickets can be half the price of the West End.

多数主要博物馆均免费入场,如泰特现代美术馆(Tate Modern,但特展往往收费)、南岸中心(South Bank)和皇家歌剧院(Royal Opera House)等场地有定期的免费演出。(《Time Out》上每周更新伦敦最好的免费活动。)大多数西区剧院每天早上都会放出当晚演出的降价票(通常约25美元)。菲茨赫伯特还建议尝试看一场非西区剧院的演出。票价可低至西区的一半。

PARIS

巴黎

巴黎小皇宫免门票。 JO HAN PAI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

Timing Matters

时机很重要

Avoid visiting during fashion weeks (women’s, men’s and haute couture), The French Open (from the end of May into early June) and the International Contemporary Art Fair, in October. Prices can be lower in winter and in August, when Parisians tend to leave the city, but this is event-dependent, too, so it’s best to research what’s happening in town. The site for the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau lists the city’s major events.

避免在时装周(女装、男装和高定时装)、5月底至6月初的法国网球公开赛(French Open)和10月份的国际当代艺术博览会期间来访。在冬季和巴黎人大都出游的8月,价格会更低,但这也取决于期间的活动安排,因此最好先做研究。巴黎旅游与会议促进局(Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau)网站上列有该市的重大活动安排。

Stay at an Under-the-Radar High-End Hotel

入住低调神秘的高端酒店

For luxury at a less stratospheric price point than the city’s palace-designated hotels, stay at a lower-key but still luxurious property. Examples include the San Regis, hidden on a quiet street in the 8th arrondissement’s so-called Golden Triangle or the Jacques Garcia-designed Hôtel Bourg Tibourg, in the Marais. Research these lesser-known gems online — the site Paris Boutique Hotels lists several, as does Time Out Paris.

如果你想住在价格没有宫殿级酒店贵,但依旧奢华的地方,可以入住一家低调但豪华度不减的酒店。例如隐藏在第八区、人称金三角地带(Golden Triangle)一条安静街道上的瑞吉酒店(San Regis),或玛黑区(Marais)雅克·加西亚(Jacques Garcia)设计的蒂尔堡镇酒店(Hôtel Bourg Tibourg)。在网上搜索一下这些鲜为人知的瑰宝——巴黎精品酒店(Paris Boutique Hotels)网站和《Time Out》巴黎版上可以找到一些。

Palace Hotel Access Without the Price Tag

不花高价体验宫殿级酒店

With standard doubles often starting at $1,000 or more per night, Paris’ palace hotels are price-prohibitive for most people. But Elsa Bacry, a lifelong Parisian and the director of European partnerships for the luxury travel network Virtuoso, said locals get a taste of them by frequenting their casual bistros and brasseries such as 114 Faubourg, at Le Bristol. “They’re not a deal, but you’re not spending a fortune either,” she said. Parisians also like to have drinks at the hotels’ bars such as the rooftop L’Oiseau Blanc at The Peninsula Paris or Bar Josephine at the Lutetia. Hannah Meltzer, a Paris-based journalist, said that spa treatments, such as a caviar facial at the lavish day spa at the Four Seasons Paris, are another option.

巴黎的宫殿级酒店标准双人间通常每晚起价1000美元或更高,对大多数人来说价格过高。但地道的巴黎人、豪华旅游网维塔索(Virtuoso)欧洲伙伴关系主任艾尔莎·巴克里(Elsa Bacry)表示,当地人常会光顾位于福宝大道(Faubourg)11号的拉布里斯托(Le Bristol)等休闲小酒馆和啤酒馆领略一番奢华。 “不是特别便宜,但也不会特别贵,”她说。巴黎人也喜欢去酒店里的酒吧喝酒,比如巴黎半岛酒店的云雀楼顶餐厅酒吧(L'Oiseau Blanc)或鲁特西亚(Lutetia)的约瑟芬酒吧(Bar Josephine)。常驻巴黎的记者汉娜·梅尔策(Hannah Meltzer)表示,还可以选择巴黎四季酒店(Four Seasons Paris)豪华日间水疗中心的鱼子酱面部护理等水疗护理。

SAN FRANCISCO

旧金山

要看看金门大桥,渡船和观光船一样好。 JASON HENRY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

Avoid the Conventions

避开各种大会

San Francisco hosts a significant number of conventions all year, according to Teresa Rodriguez, the editor-in-chief of the San Francisco edition of WhereTraveler magazine. When one is going on, hotel rates can more than triple. Check the calendar for the Moscone Center, the city’s major convention venue, and plan your trip accordingly.

据《WhereTraveler》杂志旧金山版主编特蕾莎·罗德里格兹(Teresa Rodriguez)说,旧金山一年到头会举办大量大会。当有会议举办期间,酒店价格会涨至超过三倍。去查查莫斯克尼会议中心(Moscone Center)的日历吧,那里是这座城市主要的会议举办地,然后根据日历规划你的行程。

Book Lesser-Known Hotels or Rent an Apartment

预定不那么有名的酒店,或租一间公寓

Debbie Kessler, who runs the San Francisco office of Protravel International and sells high-end trips to the city, said that travelers could save by staying away from well-known international brands and choosing a luxury boutique property instead. “They are far more reasonably priced than their big-name competitors,” she said. Viceroy Hotels & Resorts, for example, has four design-forward boutique properties in town. Booking an upscale hotel in Southern Marin County, about a 20-minute drive from San Francisco, is another money-saving option her clients use, taking Uber to get back into town. Rodriguez encourages visitors to rent a home through Airbnb or another rental site — you can stay in a historic Victorian home or sleek high-rise apartment for a fraction of the cost of a hotel.

Protravel International旧金山办事处负责人黛比·凯斯勒(Debbie Kessler)在销售这座城市的高端游,她表示远离著名国际品牌,转而选择一家奢华精品酒店,可以帮旅行者省下一笔钱。“它们的价格比那些大名鼎鼎的竞争对手要合理得多,”她说。例如,Viceroy Hotels & Resorts在旧金山拥有四处充满设计感的酒店。在距离旧金山约20分钟车程的南马林县预定一家高档酒店,是她的客户会使用的另一个省钱之选。罗德里格斯鼓励游客通过Airbnb或其他租赁平台租下一处住所——你能以酒店价格的零头,住在一幢历史悠久的维多利亚风格住宅,或是一栋造型优美的高层大厦公寓里。

SINGAPORE

新加坡

滨海湾区的公共艺术展览将这里变成了一座户外博物馆。 LAURYN ISHAK FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

Watch for Deals at Luxury Hotels

留意奢华酒店的优惠

Singapore has no low or high season and sees consistent tourist traffic throughout the year, according to Howard Oh, the concierge manager at Mandarin Oriental, Singapore, who is also Singaporean. So instead of having offseason rates, the city’s upscale hotels have promotions throughout the year. Oh recommended comparing rates offered by three luxury hotels you are keen on staying at and seeing which has the most attractive offers. “The deals vary, but you might find a discounted rate for a weekend stay with breakfast and other inclusions or a third night free with two paid nights,” he said.

新加坡不分旺季淡季,全年保持一定的客流量,文华东方酒店(Mandarin Oriental)的礼宾部经理、同时也是新加坡人的霍华德·胡(Howard Oh)说。所以,除了淡季房价外,这座城市的高端酒店一年四季都有优惠活动。霍华德·胡的建议是,对三家你十分想住的奢华酒店价格进行对比,然后看看哪家给出了最诱人的选择。“优惠价格不一,但你可能会找到一个有折扣优惠、含早餐等项目的周末住处,或是住两晚送一晚,”他说。

Dine Like a Local

像当地人一样吃

Food writer Annette Tan said that eating out in the city is generally expensive but that some neighborhoods are home to excellent and affordable restaurants. Keong Saik Road, in Chinatown, is lined with several, many of which aren’t Chinese. Cure, for one, serves modern European food with Singaporean accents. Another option is Gemmill Lane, a hidden alley off Amoy Street full of buzzy restaurants such as the French-Japanese Le Binchotan. Singaporeans also enjoy decadent high teas at the city’s five-star hotels. Tan recommended Regent Singapore, where a weekday high tea costs around $33 per adult and includes sandwiches, pastries, scones and cheeses, and the $37 tea at The Clifford Pier, overlooking Marina Bay, at the Fullerton Bay Hotel.

美食作者安妮特·陈(Annette Tan)说,在这个城市里外出就餐一般很贵,但一些社区是出色又平价的餐馆所在地。唐人街的恭锡路一路上就有不少这样的餐厅,许多都不是中餐。Cure就是其中一家,做的是带有新加坡风味的现代欧洲菜。另一个选择是厦门街边的隐蔽小巷仁美巷,满是热闹的餐馆,比如法日融合料理Le Binchotan。新加坡人还爱在这座城市的五星级酒店享受奢靡的下午茶。安妮特·陈推荐了新加坡丽晶酒店(Regent),在那里,工作日下午茶价格约33美元一位,内容包括三明治、糕点、司康饼和奶酪。她还推荐了富丽敦海湾酒店(Fullerton Bay Hotel)的红灯码头餐厅(The Clifford Pier)下午茶,价格37美元,在这里可以俯瞰滨海湾。

SYDNEY

 悉尼

在悉尼,乘坐轮渡或水上出租车可以用更便宜的价格欣赏悉尼歌剧院。 DAVID MAURICE SMITH FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

Book the Right Accommodations

预定对的住所

Carly Rea, founder of Splendour Tailored Tours, advises staying at a five-star boutique hotel in a residential neighborhood, where nightly rates can be half of what they are in the touristy Central Business District. Rea recommended Spicers Potts Point, in Potts Point, an area full of homegrown boutiques, cafes and restaurants, and Paramount House Hotel, in Surry Hills. Josh Blake, the assistant chief concierge at Four Seasons Hotel Sydney and a longtime Sydney-sider, as locals are called, said that travelers who want to stay in the heart of town should be aware that several of the luxury hotels in the CBD, including Shangri-La and InterContinental, have club lounges. You pay a fee on top of your room rate; the lounge at the Four Seasons, for example, costs $96 for two people per day. But you get a concierge, a lavish breakfast buffet and a premium open bar with appetizers in the evenings. For longer stays, consider a home rental through Contemporary Hotels or Luxico. “You can find a fantastic two-bedroom apartment for a week for the same price as a standard hotel room in the CBD,” Rea said.

Splendour Tailored Tours创始人卡莉·雷亚(Carly Rea)建议住在居民区的某家五星级精品酒店里,这些酒店的房费可能是游客常去的商业中心区的一半。雷亚推荐了位于波茨角(Potts Point)的斯派塞波茨角酒店(Spicers Potts Point),这个地区有着各种各样的本土精品店、咖啡馆和餐厅,此外她还推荐了位于萨里山(Surry Hills)的派拉蒙特之家酒店(Paramount House Hotel)。乔希·布雷克(Josh Blake)是悉尼四季酒店(Four Seasons Hotel)的礼宾部副经理,按照当地人的叫法,他是老资格的“Sydney-sider”(意为在悉尼生活的人。——译注)。他表示,想住在市中心的游客应当知道,包括香格里拉和洲际酒店在内,CBD的几家奢华酒店都有俱乐部酒廊。在房费的基础上,你需要再付一笔钱。比如,四季酒店的酒廊每天两位的价格为96美元。但你能得到礼宾部接待员的服务,一顿丰盛的自助早餐,晚上还有优质的免费酒吧,还将奉送开胃菜。如果下榻时间较久,考虑一下通过Contemporary Hotels或Luxico租下一个住宅吧。“你能找到一个出租一周的绝佳两室公寓,价格和CBD的标准酒店房间一样。

Eat Like a Local

像当地人一样吃

Rea said that the tastiest and most affordable food in town is to be found at neighborhood spots. Bistro Rex, in Potts Point, a vibrant place showcasing seasonal dishes, is an example. She also recommended a meal at one of the city’s many inexpensive and delicious Asian-influenced restaurants where diners can bring their own alcohol. The Darlinghurst and Newtown neighborhoods are full of these. On Bondi Beach, a table at a casual seaside cafe is a less expensive and more authentic way to go than a pricey restaurant, said Blake. He suggested Speedos Cafe, a local favorite that serves health-focused dishes using seasonal and organic produce. Picnics are a longtime tradition for Sydney-siders, and it’s one that travelers should partake in, too.

雷亚说,可以在各个社区找到城里最美味、最平价的美食。波茨角的Bistro Rex就是一个例子,那里充满活力,提供季节性菜品。她还推荐在这座城市平价的亚洲风味餐厅里吃一顿,在那里,食客可以自带酒水。达令赫斯特(Darlinghurst)和新镇(Newtown)区遍地是这样的店家。布雷克说,在邦代海滩(Bondi Beach),随便一个海边咖啡馆的一张桌要比贵价餐馆划算,也要地道得多。他建议了Speedos Cafe,那是备受当地人喜爱的一家店,提供以健康饮食为主的菜肴,用的是时令有机农产品。野餐是悉尼居民长期以来的传统,游客也应该试试。

本文最初发表于2019年6月12日。

翻译:Annie、李建芳




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