Gucci debuts fine jewellery line, opens first fine jewellery store in Paris
Gucci精品珠宝系列上线，并于巴黎推出首间精品珠宝店
来源：Fashion Network
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首家Gucci珠宝店开业、Lanvin关闭日本直营业务、Balmain在伦敦开快闪店等5条双语资讯 | iziRetail热点
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上周，Kering集团旗下当红奢侈品牌Gucci，正式推出了精品珠宝店，选址巴黎旺多姆广场。
目前Kering集团正大力发展珠宝业务，新动作不断。除了Gucci珠宝店开业，旗下经典高级珠宝品牌Boucheron经过一系列翻新修缮工作后，在旺多姆广场重新开业；同属Kering集团的Qeelin也紧随其后，在同一位置布局了新店。
这间Gucci珠宝精品店展出了由品牌创意总监Alessandro Michele亲自操刀设计的高级精品珠宝系列，与品牌的黄金饰品系列一同售卖。
新系列名为“Hortus Deliciarum”，单品数量超过200件。，多使用彩色宝石，并在意大利完成制作。Alessandro也表示，这些设计对他来说意义深远，也代表了现在品牌的形象。
Alessandro选择的宝石色彩、种类丰富，根据不同宝石的形状和特点来进行设计。设计围绕“永恒的爱、动物王国、钻石“三个主题展开，展示了一个色彩斑斓如神话般的花园。
品牌自2015年起就承诺，产品使用的黄金来源均是符合道德标准且可溯源。同样，所有的钻石来源也都是经过合法认证的。
与品牌其他店铺的设计感不同，旺多姆珠宝店给人的感觉更沉稳、低调一些。珠宝首饰陈列在深色木质橱柜内，置于淡绿色的缎面之上；黑白相间的的大理石瓷砖地板也为店铺增添了些许复古感。
过去两年，Kering集团一直致力于打造奢侈品帝国，在完成出售旗下Puma等品牌后，集团开始慢慢将目光投向珠宝市场。集团CEO也表示，此次Gucci进军珠宝领域，也将进一步巩固品牌的高端奢侈地位。
The Kering group is redoubling its efforts in the jewellery sector. After the comprehensive renovation of the historic Boucheron store at 26 Place Vendôme, and the opening next door of a store for Chinese jeweller Qeelin, both labels owned by Kering, on Tuesday the luxury group inaugurated the very first fine jewellery boutique by Gucci, located at number 16 on the same, mythical Parisian square.
The inauguration also marks the launch of Gucci’s fine jewellery line, with a first collection designed by Alessandro Michele, creative director of the Kering group’s leading label. The new line is available at the place Vendôme boutique alongside Gucci’s gold jewellery.
The collection, called Hortus Deliciarum, consists of over 200 pieces, the majority of them unique. They are all made in Italy and predominantly feature coloured gems.
For this project, Alessandro Michele has delved into the depths of his eclectic imagination, picking out “designs that are dear to him and are now part of the canon of [Gucci’s] iconography,” stated the label in a press release.
The designs centre around three themes (eternal love, the animal kingdom and solitaires), reinterpreted through the prism of a mythical garden.
“Each gem is uniquely defined, a manifestation of what Alessandro Michele calls ‘discordant symmetry’, and each is mounted in a slightly different manner, embodying the spirituality of imperfection,” wrote Gucci.
Among the stones chosen by Michele are honey-coloured imperial topazes, pink topazes, green tourmalines, mandarin garnets, white diamonds, pink and blue sapphires, iridescent opals and yellow beryls. The collection is rich, sophisticated, its pieces seemingly unearthed in a mysterious ancient kingdom.
Gucci underlined that all the gold bought by the label since November 2015 for the manufacture of its jewels is certified and guaranteed as being responsibly sourced. Equally, all of the diamonds bought by Gucci come from legally certified sources .
Unlike Gucci’s other stores, the interiors of the place Vendôme boutique have a rather understated feel. The jewels are displayed within dark wood cabinets upholstered in faded green satin, to enhance the brilliance of the gemstones.
The black and white marble-tiled floor, the ceiling mirrors and the drapery all contribute to give the store the look of an antique showcase.
In the last two years, Kering has refocused on its luxury business, selling off sport apparel and equipment brand Puma.
Until now, Kering’s fashion and leather goods labels have been given priority, but the time has come to grow the jewellery and watches segments too.
Something that Kering’s CEO François-Henri Pinault spelled out very clearly at the publication of the group’s annual results: the launch of a fine jewellery line "will further strengthen Gucci’s very high-end positioning".
Lanvin Japan closing down
Lanvin逐步结束品牌在日本的直营业务
来源：Retail in Asia
法国时尚品牌Lanvin日前宣布，于8月15日解散负责品牌公关、市场活动的日本团队，位于东京银座的Lanvin期间店也将于近期关闭。
结束Lanvin日本是由法国总部决定的，但品牌的批发业务仍由Coronet Corporation继续负责。
Lanvin自2016年起就处于亏损的状态。2018年，品牌被复星时尚集团收购。2019年初，Bruno Sialelli临危受命，成为品牌的创意总监。复星国际也表示，希望Sialelli的加入能够使品牌扭亏为盈。
Coronet Corporation于2003年在日本东京创立，由其代理经销的国际奢侈品牌有40%进驻了日本的百货公司，其余为专卖店。公司代理业务的品牌包括Nina Rucci，Boglioli，Manoush，Lucien Pellat-Finet，Karen Walker，Scotch & Soda等。
Iconic French fashion house Lanvin is closing its Japanese operations for good, according to Japanese media reports, following a decision by Lanvin’s French headquarters, as it refocuses its efforts in the Asian nation.
Lanvin Japan, which operates business services including public relation and marketing for the Parisian label in Japan, will come to an end on August 15, 2019.
The Lanvin flagship store in Ginza, Tokyo – which bowed in the fashionable district in 2004 — will also close, leaving Lanvin Japan wholesale sales in the hands of Coronet Corporation.
Coronet’s distribution portfolio of international luxury brands includes Nina Rucci, Boglioli, Manoush, Lucien Pellat-Finet, Karen Walker, and Scotch & Soda, among others.
Founded in 2003, the Tokyo-based company places its foreign luxury brands across Japanese department stores and speciality stores, weighted 40 and 60 percent, respectively.
The news follows Lanvin’s appointment of a new creative director in early 2019. Bruno Sialelli was chosen after months of speculation in January, 2019.
Parent company and Chinese investment firm, Fosun International, hopes that Siaelli can turn around France’s oldest fashion house after it has faced headwinds since the departure of its much-loved creative director, Alber Elbaz in 2015.
Balmain debuts pop-up at Selfridges in London with personalisation of sneakers
Balmain在伦敦Selfridges开设快闪店
来源：CPPLuxury
日前，法国时装品牌Balmain在Selfridges开了一间快闪店，展出了品牌的sneaker系列，以及2020春夏男装系列的部分成衣、配饰。
品牌创意总监Olivier Rousteing表示，sneaker对他来说是日常生活中不可或缺的一部分，并且希望与更多的人分享自己对这些单品的喜爱。
Olivier认为，Balmain的sneaker不仅在价格方面能够被大多数消费者所接受的，设计上也具有包容性，更贴合大众审美。
至于这次快闪店之所以选址伦敦，一是因为伦敦地区是品牌比较活跃的市场之一，另一方面是因为伦敦地区的消费者更有实验精神。
品牌还邀请了艺术家加入这次快闪活动，为消费者打造更具个人特色的sneaker，比如会用到涂鸦、金属钉饰、日式风格图案等元素，这些也是品牌在最近几季的设计中会经常用到的。之后品牌将进一步扩展产品线，推出限定色系以及女式sneaker。
Set within The Corner Shop, just behind the iconic department store’s Oxford Street windows, the Balmain pop-up will have the entire sneaker collection on display, alongside a selection of clothing and other accessories from the spring/summer 2020 men’s collection.
"I live in sneakers, so I wanted to give people a bit of my own wardrobe,” said Balmain’s creative director, Olivier Rousteing, when the Evening Standard caught up with him a few hours before the launch.
“Sneakers give a more affordable entry point to the Balmain brand, and I am very focussed on inclusivity, on democratising fashion."
And of the decision to debut his sneakers in London over Paris? “London is one of our biggest markets, we have a huge crowd here and its less traditional than Paris, people are more experimental here".
A host of artists will also be on hand to personalise the shoes in store with graffiti, metal studs and Japanese graphics – all strong themes from Balmain’s recent collections.
Going forward, Balmain plans to expand its sneaker offering, with limited edition colours and women’s styles in the pipeline. Balmain’s pop-up is open now at Selfridges London until July 7.
Montblanc gets fashionable with Bape collaboration for leather goods collection
Montblanc与Bape合作推出限量皮具系列
来源：CPPLuxury
日本时尚潮流品牌Bape与Montblanc万宝龙合作推出了联名限量系列，将Bape标志性的迷彩印花元素融入单品的设计中。该系列产品包括公文包、文件夹、钱包和笔袋等jingpin。
产品的定价在235美元-995美元（约合1616RMB-6842RMB）不等，在美国、英国、日本、中国的Bape和Montblanc门店及管网同步发售。
Montblanc的创意总监Zaim Kamal在谈及这一联名合作系列时表示，这是经典与街头的一次碰撞，呈现了两个不同世界的精彩融合。
Bape于1993年在东京成立，产品包括男女装和儿童街头服饰。Montblanc于1906年在德国成立，以高端奢华的钢笔产品而闻名 。
Japanese streetwear brand A Bathing Ape, best known as Bape, has joined forces with Montblanc to release a limited-edition collection of leather accessories featuring Bape’s exclusive camouflage print and Montblanc’s logo. The pieces include a document case, a portfolio, a pen pouch and a matching wallet.
Prices range from 235 US dollars for the pen pouch to 995 US dollars for the document case. The collection is sold on both Bape and Montblanc’s ecommerce websites, as well as in select stores in the United States, the UK, Japan and China.
Commenting on the partnership, Montblanc’s Creative Director Zaim Kamal said on the brand’s website: “this collaboration is the result of two universes merging. While they may seem to be very different, they are bound by the same focus on creativity” .
Founded in Tokyo in 1993, Bape operates nearly 20 stores in Japan, where it sells streetwear for men, women and kids. Best known for its luxury pens, Montblanc was founded in Germany in 1906.
The company has expanded into a number of other product categories in recent years, including watches, accessories and leather goods.
Scotch & Soda launches men’s rental service
Scotch & Soda推出男装租赁服务
来源：Retail in Asia
荷兰轻奢时尚品牌Scotch＆Soda宣布推出男装租赁服务——“Scotch Select”，以线上渠道为主，提供品牌男装系列的全线产品。这也是零售市场上首个提供服装租赁服务的品牌。
目前Scotch Select的租赁服务按月计费，每月99美元，每次可申请3件服装。注册用户可以从品牌的全线产品中选择，包括单宁系列、外套、针织系列、T恤等。
注册用户可以在当月内不限次更换租借的单品，并享有免费退换、洗衣等服务。如果用户对收到的商品非常满意，还可以享受折扣价格购买。
新的租赁计划是品牌与CaaStle的，旗下B2B平台“CaaS”提供技术支持。该技术平台致力于帮助时尚零售公司推出订阅类服务。
Caastle于2018年创立，创始人Hunsicker还拥有自己的Gwynnie Bee租赁服务公司。除了Scotch＆Soda之外，CaaStle目前还为Loft，Ann Taylor，Express和New York＆Company等品牌提供订阅服务技术支持。
Dutch mid-luxe fashion brand Scotch & Soda announced the launch of its debut menswear subscription service.
Dubbed ‘Scotch Select’, the Amsterdam-based Scotch & Soda said the new online rental service provides full access to the brand’s menswear collection. It is also the first apparel subscription rental service to be offered by a retail brand in the menswear market.
Scotch Select offers the brand’s full range of denim, outerwear, knitwear, chinos, t-shirts, and wovens for a flat monthly fee, with the option to keep and purchase the subscriber’s most desired items at a discount.
The new service is priced at $99 per month for a 3-garment plan, and includes priority shipping, unlimited exchanges and returns, and complimentary laundering.
The new rental initiative is in partnership with CaaStle and the B2B platform’s ‘CaaS’ (Clothing as a Service) technology.The technology platform assists fashion and retail companies with launching their own subscription service.
Hunsicker, who created the company to run her own Gwynnie Bee rental service, founded Caastle in 2018.
In addition to Scotch & Soda, CaStle currently powers the subscription programs offered by Loft, Ann Taylor, Express and New York & Company, among others.
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