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 “民以食为天”，各国宾客这两天相聚杭州，肯定要品尝一下杭州的美食。

 地道的杭州美食有哪些？很多人会提到西湖醋鱼、东坡肉、龙井虾仁……小布要为你介绍的，可远远不止这些。来杭州，不把这些美食吃上一遍，总是会有些遗憾！

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西湖醋鱼

West Lake

Fish

　　西湖醋鱼是杭州传统风味名菜，属浙系菜，有“西湖第一珍馐”的美誉。西湖醋鱼又名“叔嫂传珍”，这个名字还有一个典故，说的是嫂嫂为出逃的小叔子烧了一条鱼，做法奇特，有酸有甜，寄意小叔将来发达时勿忘今时辛酸。细想一下，人生其实就像这西湖醋鱼，甜中有酸，酸中有甜，“悲欣交集”方为人生。

The vinegared fish of the West Lake is a traditional and famous dish which belongs to the cuisine of Zhejiang. It’s said to be the best thing to eat from the West Lake. It’s also called “Legend of Uncle and Aunt” – there is a name behind this story. It’s said that when the younger brother of a woman’s husband ran off, she prepared an excellent fish, both sour and sweet, and he returned and forgot his worries. Life is a bit like this fish, when you think about it: there’s sweet in the sour, and sour in the sweet, as joys and sorrows mix together.

东坡肉

Dongpo

Meat

　　苏东坡曾任杭州通判和知府，主持疏浚西湖，用淤泥修建了堤坝。感民工辛苦，杀了几只猪，用大锅红烧，犒赏民工吃肉。肉味道鲜美，大家叫它东坡肉。他性格豪放得罪了不少官员，遭到贬谪。百姓为纪念他，就把修的堤叫苏堤，把一条街叫东坡巷，把一条路叫学士路。

When Su Dongpo was in charge of Hangzhou, he dredged and deepened the West Lake and used the excavated mud to build the Su Causeway. To thank the labourers for their effort, he slaughtered a few pigs and braised them in soy sauce in a large pot, then presenting them to the labourers to eat. The flavour of the meat was excellent, and everyone called it “Dongpo meat”. His forthright and bold character angered a number of other officials. He subsequently was relegated of his duties. In order to remember him, people called the causeway he had built the Su Causeway, a street in the city Dongpo Lane, and a road Scholar Road.

龙井虾仁

Longjing

Shrimp

　　相传清朝皇帝乾隆下江南，到杭州时正逢清明时节，御厨正准备烹制“白玉虾仁”，闻着皇帝赐饮的明前龙井散发出的清香，突发奇想，将茶叶连汁洒入炒虾仁的锅中，于是有了这道美味。“龙井虾仁”中虾仁玉白，食之极为鲜嫩，龙井芽叶碧绿，清香，食后清口开胃，回味无穷。

It’s said that when the Qianlong Emperor went to the Jiangnan area, it happened to be the Tomb-Sweeping Holiday. The imperial chef prepared a dish of “white jade shrimp”. When he was to inquire as to what the emperor wished to drink, he suddenly had the idea to put the tea leaves into the pot in which he was frying the shrimp, and the result was even better-tasting. The shrimp used in the dish are jade-white and tender; the tea leaves are deep green and lightly fragrant. The dish is refreshing and quite enjoyable.

西湖莼菜汤

Water-shield
Soup of
the West Lake

　　朋友来杭，指名想吃“西湖莼菜汤”，说是十年前来杭一游，一道“西湖莼菜汤”让她一直朝思暮想。于是，赶紧带她去楼外楼点上一大碗配以鸡丝、火腿，碧翠鲜醇，清洌爽口的西湖莼菜汤解馋，然后再去商店买上二十袋莼菜汤料准备让她带回。想想乾隆每次游江南都必尝莼菜汤，朋友对此汤如此钟爱也情有可原。

When a friend came to Hangzhou, she said that she wanted to eat the “water shield (brasenia schreberi) soup of the West Lake”. She said that she’d been to Hangzhou 10 years before, and the soup had left a lasting impression in her mind. Thus, I took her to Louwailou and ordered a big bowl of water-shield soup with chicken and ham, clear and fresh with amazing flavour. Afterwards we both went to a market and I bought more than 20 bags of water-shield soup mix for her to take with her. Think about how the Qianlong Emperor had this soup every time he came to the Jiangnan area; it’s understandable that my friend’s so obsessed with it.

片儿川

Pian Er Chuan

Noodle

　　杭州曾是南宋国都，受中原饮食影响，面食也相当流行。街头巷尾，各种面馆数不胜数。但不管来自全国各地的面条们多么来势汹汹，杭城总有一碗面够格站出来大喝一声：这是我的地盘！这就是片儿川，选用笋、雪菜、肉片做浇头，鲜香爽口，百吃不厌。因笋和肉都切成片状，加上杭州方言的“儿”化音，故得此名。

Hangzhou was the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty and its cuisine was influenced by the culture of the Central Plains Region, where noodles are popular. In the streets, lanes and alleyways, all kinds of noodle shops are everywhere. However, no matter how popular certain noodle dishes may be, Hangzhou has a noodle dish that can claim Hangzhou as its own territory. This is the “Pian Er Chuan”. It’s made with bamboo shoots, crispy vegetables and meat slices. It smells and tastes great, and is liked by everyone.

奎元馆的两碗面

Two Kinds of

Noodles at the

Kuiyuan Hall

　　论起面条，北方人不免有一种优越感。面、汤、料中，面无疑是灵魂。北方人恰在塑造灵魂上得心应手，而江南的面条多数采用机器挂面，缺乏灵气。不过，奎元馆不仅使用“大竹杠人工坐研”的霸气方法做面，配料也考究。镇店之面“片儿川”和“爆鳝面”，笋和鳝都是江南美味。这两碗面成了杭州美食的招牌。

When talking about noodles, northerners definitely feel that this is their territory. In a bowl of noodles, soup, and flavourings, the noodles themselves are of course the soul. Northerners put their greatest efforts into crafting these noodles by hand, whereas in the Jiangnan region most use machines to form them, making them lack “soul”. However, the Kuiyuan Restaurant not only uses the powerful technique of a skilled noodle crafter equipped with a large bamboo pole, the flavourings are also excellent. The local noodle dishes “river of slices” and “exploding eel noodles” use flavourings such as bamboo shoots and eel, which are local flavours. These two have become the signature noodles of Hangzhou.

小笼包

Small Steamed Buns

　　北宋时，开封灌汤包享誉中原。南宋定都杭州，灌汤包随之南下，在精细的杭州人手里，再次大放溢彩。杭州小笼包滚水渌粉，皮薄馅靓，肥瘦适宜，汤汁肥厚；咬上一口，满口流香；与上海小笼包、无锡小笼包并称江南小笼三绝。在很多老杭州眼中，早餐没有小笼包，白天工作都浑身没劲。

During the Northern Song Dynasty, the soup-filled dumplings of Kaifeng were quite famous. During the time of the Southern Song Dynasty, the capital was moved to Hangzhou, and these soup-filled dumplings migrated south. In the delicate hands of the people of Hangzhou, they grew even better. The small steamed buns of Hangzhou have thin skin, plenty of moisture, and a good ratio of fat to lean meat. Take a bite, and your mouth will be filled with flavour. Along with those of Shanghai and Wuxi, the small steamed buns of Hangzhou are one of the three best in the Jiangnan area. For some people of Hangzhou, a breakfast without Hangzhou steamed buns means no energy to work for the rest of the day.

猫耳朵

Cat

Ears

　　杭州有一道名为“猫耳朵”的小吃，实则是一道面点，因形似猫耳得名，是杭州百年老店“知味观”的招牌菜之一。它之所以能成为杭州名食，还得归功于热衷微服出巡的乾隆皇帝。一次下江南到杭州之时，天公不作美，躲避舟中数时，饥饿之际船夫的孙女将面捻成猫耳状，为皇帝做了这道让其赞不绝口的“猫耳朵”。

Hangzhou has a famous “Cat Ears” snack, which is a kind of bread-based snack that gets its name because it resembles the ear of a cat. It’s one of the specialties of the old and famous Zhiweiguan in Hangzhou. It can be said to be one of Hangzhou’s famous food, and even has the honour of being purchased by the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing Dynasty during a plainclothes patrol. One time during a visit to Hangzhou when the emperor was on a boat in bad weather, the granddaughter of a boatmaster twisted bread into the shape of a cat’s ear, causing the emperor to remark upon it.

葱包桧儿香

Fragrant

Onion Rolls

　　下班回家最爱在小区门口买上一副大妈的葱包烩儿来吃。大妈的制作工具特别霸气，是用电熨斗来做压板的，因此她的葱包烩儿特别脆香。只见大妈用薄薄的春饼包裹住油条，放上几根小葱，拿起电熨斗霸气的一压，葱包烩儿顿时“滋滋”作响，香气四溢。然后再涂上独门秘制甜辣酱，咬上一口，哇，真乃人间第一美味也。

I love eating the fried onion rolls that a woman sells outside my compound when I get home after work. She really has her own way of doing things – she uses an electric iron to cook the rolls as she presses them flat, and for this reason they’re especially crispy and fragrant. She wraps a spring cake around a fritter, and then sprinkles some onions on top, wraps it up, presses the iron down upon it and with a sizzling sound, fragrance flies outward. She then paints them with her own special spicy sauce. Your mind will be blown by the flavour when you take a bite.

胖子烧饼

Fatty’s

Baked Cakes

　　文三路浙大西溪校区边的胖子烧饼店异常火爆。1992年，应师傅经商失败，独自一人来到杭州，开始了艰辛的烧饼之路。皇天不负有心人，几经探索，应师傅独创的胖子烧饼在杭城打开了局面。有时，排队等饼的人群有数十米长。现在的应师傅在杭州买了个200多万的房子，安心静气做起老板。

Fatty’s Baked Cake shop on Wensan Road near the West Creek Campus of Zhejiang University is unusually popular. In 1992, his former business failed, Mr. Ying came to Hangzhou alone, and started the difficult path of making baked cakes. Heaven, however, rewards those who are persistent, and Mr. Ying came to open his baked shop in Hangzhou. Sometimes, the queue of people waiting to buy cakes is dozens of metres long. Mr. Ying has purchased a 2-million Yuan house in Hangzhou, and enjoys a peaceful life of running his shop.

吴山酥油饼

Crispy Oil Cakes

on Mount Wu

　　吴山酥油饼因其美味被称“吴山第一点”，至今已有七八百年历史。据说苏东坡任杭州知州时，某日冒雨游吴山，见众人争购油饼，也买下几只品尝，觉其一层层、一丝丝，又油又酥，如身上所着蓑衣，便随口为其取名“蓑衣饼”。从此“蓑衣饼”生意兴隆，声名远扬。因“蓑衣饼”与“酥油饼”谐音，后改称“酥油饼”。

The crispy oil cakes sold of Mount Wu have been called the best thing about the place, and have seven or eight centuries of history. It’s said that when Su Dongpo was in charge of Hangzhou, on a rainy day he went to Mount Wu, and saw people flocking to buy these oily cakes. He bought a few to try, and thought the multi-layered, delicate cakes resembled the palm-woven rain cloak he was wearing, and thus called them “rain cloak cakes”. Afterwards, they became famous far and wide. As the pronunciation of “rain cloak” is similar to “crispy oil” in Chinese, they later became known as “crispy oil cakes”.

油墩儿

Oily

Cakes

　　油墩儿是很多杭州人钟爱的路边摊美食。那金灿灿、圆墩墩、在油锅里被炸得吱吱作响、冒着油光的样子着实可爱，让人看了立马就垂涎欲滴。买上一个爽脆萝卜丝拌雪菜馅儿的油墩儿，吹着热气狠狠地咬上一大口，哇，世上山珍海味统统都不是它的对手。唉，啥也不说了，赶紧出门下楼巷口买油墩儿解馋去啰！

Oily cakes are a snack sold in roadside booths that are much beloved by the people of Hangzhou. They are golden in colour, round, and crackle vigorously when they are fried in a pot of oil. They shine with the oil that they are absolutely full of, and make one drool when looking upon them. Buy one stuffed with carrots and crispy vegetables, blow on it to cool it off, and experience some amazing flavour. Ah, there’s no need to say more; let’s head out, go downstairs and get some right now!

茶食

Chinese

Pastry

　　凡南方城市，无论闽粤、湘川还是江浙、皖赣，朋友一聚，三两知己，喝茶总是常规选项，杭州也无例外。不过杭州的茶楼茶馆多和他地有别，喝茶为虚，自助的各式小点零食为实。两人对坐是一席，三五人围坐也是一席，席上浅碟浅碗满满，说说笑笑，热热闹闹地吃，吃完即取，席上是永远撤不去的茶食。

All southern cities, be they in the provinces like Guangdong, Fujian, Hunan, or Sichuan, or even Zhejiang, Anhui, or Jiangxi, when friends get together, or people gather, tea will be present. Hangzhou is of course no exception. However, Hangzhou’s teahouses are special, different from elsewhere. There are all kinds of snacks one may help oneself to. Two people sit at one table, but a group of three to five also sit at the same small table. The table will be full of small cups, plates, bowls and the like. People sit, chat, laugh and have a good time while eating, fetching more as soon as they finish – the table will never be empty of Chinese pastries and snacks.

小钵头甜酒酿

Jars of

Sweet Liquor

　　“小钵头甜酒酿来的，毫稍来买。”夏秋的傍晚，杭城一些老小区，总会响起这样的叫卖声。于是，大伯大妈们就会出门买上一小钵这正宗土法酿制、香香糯糯、有着醉人甜香的甜酒酿。“老底子要凭粮票才好买嘞，要屋里厢有产妇才会舍得去买来吃哦，个毛生活真当是越来越好的，”大妈的一口杭州话也是甜甜糯糯。

“Sweet liquor in a little jar, come and get some.” At dusk on summer or autumn nights in some old parts of Hangzhou, there will always be bustle of hawkers like this. Old people will come out to buy a small jar of this authentically distilled liquor, thick with the fragrance of sticky rice and an intoxicating sweetness. “I used to buy this stuff with my food tickets. I’d only spend them on actual food if there was a woman pregnant in the family. Ah, life just gets better and better,” says an old woman in Hangzhou dialect, the sound of her voice sweet like the liquor.

灵隐寺的腊八粥

Laba Congee

at Lingyin Temple

　　“火升起，锅上灶，料下锅，粥香四溢。腊月初八好去处，灵隐寺里喝好粥。”这仿佛已经成为杭州人约定俗成的习惯了。小小一碗粥，选料、剥壳、搅拌、翻勺、放凉、装盒，点点滴滴，满满福气和情意。更遑论灵隐寺腊八节风俗现已成功入选第六批杭州市非物质文化遗产，浓浓的人文情怀，扑面而来。

The fire rises, the pot is placed on, the ingredients are placed within and the congee is realised. On the eighth day of the 12th lunar month, there’s great congee at Lingyin Temple. This has practically become an established custom in Hangzhou. To make a small bowl of congee, one picks ingredients, shucks rice, mixes it, turns the spoon, lets it cool, and then puts it in the box. The congee of the temple has already been listed as an intangible cultural heritage asset.

楼外楼

Louwailou

　　“西湖醋鱼何处美，独数杭州楼外楼。”杭州人有种习俗，凡有宾客，必到楼外楼品尝杭菜风味。楼外楼，创建于清道光二十八年（1848 年），是一家具有150 多年悠久历史的老店，有“江南第一楼”的美誉。它坐落于风景优美的孤山之麓，像一颗明珠镶嵌在山光水色之中，熠熠生辉。

The people of Hangzhou frequently say that that Louwailou is the place to go for West Lake Fish – when guests come from out of town, it’s customary to bring them there. The restaurant was established in 1848, and with over 150 years of history, it’s one with quite a long history. It’s sometimes called the most famous restaurant in the Jiangnan area. It’s situated in a scenic location, at the foot of Mount Gu, and it shines like a pearl inlaid into the face of the mountain.

内容参考《微观杭州》一书

编辑：沈波

责编：沈华军