2018 成为会员，与冷芸一起读书及解读时尚行业
2018 成为会员
与冷芸一起读书及解读时尚行业
继2017年的时尚读书会后，我们即将开始2018年的读书。
时尚从来就不仅仅是关于穿着与装扮。时尚既是历史与社会的一面镜子，同时也是历史与社会所塑造的结果。在本读书会中，冷芸将与您一起阅读并分享20本时尚相关类的经典著作。这些作品都并非就时尚谈时尚，而是从社会学、人类学、经济学、文化学、地域与民族学等角度来讨论时尚。相信通过这一系列的阅读，您一定会对时尚有更加深刻的认识！
本系列中所阅读的基本为英文原版作品。对于可以阅读英文的读者，我建议您可以从图书馆、亚马逊英文书店或者Kindle里购买这些书（本读书会并不提供书的采购与借阅）。
对于不能阅读英文的读者，您可以通过加入读书会，透过我的中文分享，来了解原本可能你没有机会了解的时尚世界。
读书清单将逐步根据大家的反馈进行更新。目前已确认读书的清单请见以下阅读书目。
读书时间原则上是每2周的周六晚7：30到9：30。所有课程均可无限次数回放。
请注意，此为读书分享会，而非任何专业的培训课程。读书会主要还是为了拓展大家的视野，能够更加深刻地了解时尚及其所带来的社会、经济与文化现象。
冷芸，博士，时尚撰稿人、评论人与商业顾问。2017秋冬季上海时装周特邀评论员。其合作媒体与知识付费平台包括《BoF时装商业评论》，《周末画报》、《三联生活周刊》、 知乎等。其培训对象则包括唯品会、赫基（欧时力）、三福百货、康泰纳仕时尚与设计培训中心(下属杂志VOGUE,GQ,悦己等)等。
冷芸2013-14年获得由美国政府颁发的富布莱特(Fulbright)学者奖(该奖项诞生于1946年，为美国最高荣誉的奖项之一。该奖项曾经诞生了86位普利策奖获奖人；及54位诺贝尔奖获奖人)。 同年冷芸在纽约帕森斯(Parsons)设计学院做访问学者。其研究领域主要为中西时装体系对比。该体系包括了从设计教育、到设计师、零售商、传媒及消费者的体系形成、历史发展及商业模式等完整的时尚产业价值链系统。冷芸在服装业工作近15年。曾任职于耐克、百丽及利丰集团。
冷芸主要出版作品有《中国时尚：对话中国服装设计师》。《时装买手实用手册》（2011年由中国纺织出版社出版，现第2版）是其另一本主要著作。该书上市后在2年内即获得３次印刷，并获得中国纺织总会颁发的“2012年优秀图书奖”。
读书清单将逐步根据大家的反馈进行更新。目前已确认读书的清单见下。
1：《服装作为物质文化》
英文名：Clothing as Material Culture
by Susanne Küchler (Editor), Daniel Miller (Editor)
本书从物质文化角度来审视服装。讨论了服装在不同的地域（非洲、印度、太平洋地区等）及不同的场景中（饭店、家庭等）如何被人们用来表达它的社会属性。
2：《时尚的美学经济：服装与模特儿业的市场与价值》
英文名：The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion: Markets and Value in Clothing and Modelling (Dress, Body, Culture)
by Joanne Entwistle (Author)
本书从社会学，通过对百货商场及模特儿经济公司的案例分析，阐述了时尚是如何利用“美学”来赚取增值价值的。
3：《女人的服饰：服装中的符号学与社会学》
英文名：The Dress of Women: A Critical Introduction to the Symbolism and Sociology of Clothing
by Charlotte Perkins Gilman (Author), Michael R. Hill (Editor), Mary Jo Deegan (Editor)
此书最早写于1915年。由著名的女权社会学家Gilman所著。本书主要探索女性服装在男权社会里的象征意义。虽然成书于早期，但是其中的理论即使今日看来也颇有意义。
4：《穿着衣服的社会：服装、人体与世界的某些意义》
英文名：The Dressed Society: Clothing, the Body and Some Meanings of the World (Published in association with Theory, Culture & Society) 1st Edition
by Peter Corrigan (Author)
本书主要通过对社会中诸如美妆品的使用、礼物的交换、以及阶层、性别及宗教等现象的分析，阐述了服装是如何塑造了社会，以及社会又如何塑造了服装。
5：《20世纪的美国服饰》
英文名：20th Century Dress in the United States First Edition 1st Printing Edition
by Jane Farrell-Beck (Author), Jean Parsons (Author)
本书所跨越的年代从1898年到2004年。不仅仅呈现了20世纪美国在不同年代所流行的服饰，更是将导致时尚流行背后的社会文化思潮、流行音乐、政治、经济及技术发展因素一并展现给读者。
American dress from 1898 to 2004 and find innovation at every turn. Diversity and complexity are key: far from the fashion stereotypes embodied by popular ideas of "the Twenties" or "the Sixties"-periods noted for their youthful upheaval and influence-we see how every era has its conformists and rebels, from the Arrow Collar Man and the Gibson Girl to flappers, bell-bottom-clad hippies, and Jackie Kennedy.
Each chapter explores the social, cultural, economic, artistic, and technological themes that shape fashion in both festive and everyday clothing. Changes in retailing and manufacturing are also examined, from the sweatshops of yesterday to the Internet shopping of today. From high fashion to low, glitz to grunge, this vivid and comprehensive book explains what we wear on our backs-and why.
6：《文化与消费：消费品与消费活动的符号性》
英文名：Culture and Consumption: New Approaches to theSymbolic Character of Consumer Goods and Activities
by Grant David McCracken.
This book compiles and integrates highly innovative work aimed at bridging the fields of anthropology and consumer behavior." ―Journal of Consumer Affairs
Grant McCracken has written a provocative book that puts consumerism in its place in Western society―at the centre." ―Report on Business Magazine
The volume will help balance the prevailing cognitive and social psychological cast of consumer research and should stimulate more comprehensive investigation into consumer behavior." ―Journal of Marketing Research
This provocative book takes a refreshing new view of the culture of consumption. McCracken examines the interplay of culture and consumer behavior from the anthropologist's point of view and provides new insights into the way we view ourselves.
7：《文化的产生：媒介与城市艺术》
英文名：The Production of Culture: Media and the Urban Arts
by Diana Crane
The phrase `production of culture′ is concerned with how the organizations in which culture is produced and disseminated affect the nature of culture itself. Yet there is no clear consensus on what is meant by this phrase. Crane, in reviewing and synthesizing current research, provides a systematic and accessible approach to this complex subject.
She examines the issue on both popular and elite levels. The reader is thus allowed to see how the notion of `production′ changes depending on the size of the audience and the structure of the particular cultural industry.
8：《消费文化与后现代主义》
英文名：Consumer Culture and Postmodernism
by Mike Featherstone.
The First Edition of this contemporary classic can claim to have put ′consumer culture′ on the map, certainly in relation to postmodernism.
Updated throughout, this expanded new edition includes a fully revised preface that explores the developments in consumer culture since the First Edition.
Among the most noteworthy areas discussed are the effect of global warming on consumption, the rise of the new rich, changes in the North/South divide and the new diversity of consumer culture. The result is a book that shakes the boundaries of debate, from one of the foremost writers on culture and postmodernism of the present day.
9：《媒介符号学概论》
英文名：Media Semiotics: An Introduction
by Jonathan Bignell
Media semiotics is a lucid investigation of the critical approach in contemporary media studies. Using examples such as Big Brother and Billy Elliot, Jonathan Bignell steps easily from basic concepts to more complex theories, while devoting chapters to specific media forms. New material in this second edition includes sections on men's style magazines, docusoaps and 'reality TV', digital interactive television, and mobile phone text messaging.
This study begins by explaining the concept of the sign and the ideological roles of media in contemporary culture. The book then scrutinises advertisements, glossy magazines, daily newspapers, TV programmes, recent films and interactive media, with each chapter containing close analyses of particular examples. Key strands in critical theory which are allied to semiotics, such as ideology and psychoanalytic theory are explored. Media semiotics moves on to discuss the challenges to establish semiotic methods posed by audience studies and postmodernism, and considers 'new media', including computer games, the Internet and the World Wide Web.
10：《营销符号学：品牌标识、战略及价值》
英文名：Marketing Semiotics: Signs, Strategies, and Brand Value
by Laura R. Oswald (Author)
The book uses structural semiotics, a discipline that extends the laws of structural linguistics to the analysis of verbal, visual, and spatial sign systems, to shed light on the cultural codes and discourse of brands. It proposes that semiotic research should form the cornerstone of brand equity management, since brands rely so heavily on sign systems that contribute to profitability by distinguishing brands from simple commodities, from competitors, and engaging consumers in the brand world.
The book includes dozens of global business cases where semiotics has been used to refocus, reposition, or extend the brand to new products, customers, and markets. Drawing upon twenty years of academic and consulting experience, the book provides actionable direction for steering brands through technological and cultural change, differentiating brands in the competitive environment, and counteracting the natural depletion of brand meaning over time.
11：《从中国品牌文化到国际品牌》
英文名：From Chinese Brand Culture to Global Brands: Insights from aesthetics, fashion and history
by W. Zhiyan (Author), J. Borgerson (Author), J. Schroeder (Author)
From Chinese Brand Culture to Global Brands examines branding from the Chinese perspective, and predicts that China's greatest brands are poised for global dominance.
12：《形象的力量：外貌的社会分层》
英文名：The power of looks：Social Stratification of Physical Appearance
by Bonnie Berry
13：《时尚：一种沟通方式》
英文名：Fashion as Communication
by Malcolm Barnard
What kinds of things do fashion and clothing say about us? What does it mean to wear Gap or Gaultier, Milletts or Moschino? Are there any real differences between Hip-Hop style and Punk anti-styles? In this fully revised and updated edition, Malcolm Barnard introduces fashion and clothing as ways of communicating and challenging class, gender, sexual and social identities.
Drawing on a range of theoretical approaches from Barthes and Baudrillard to Marxist, psychoanalytic and feminist theory, Barnard addresses the ambivalent status of fashion in contemporary culture.
14：《克莱普那广告学教程》
英文名：Kleppner's Advertising Procedure
by Ron Lane (Author), Karen King (Author)
An all-inclusive introduction to the exciting and dynamic world of advertising.
Kleppner’s Advertising Procedure introduces readers to advertising by providing insight from professionals and recentexamples that highlight the best advertisements and promotional techniques.This text also provides readers with a clear, comprehensive look at the rolespractitioners play from three key perspectives: a firm’s marketing/advertisingdepartment, an ad agency professional, and media executives.
The eighteenth edition reflects how new media has changed advertising.
后期清单将逐步根据大家的反馈进行更新......
设计师；媒体；买手；教师；以及所有时尚爱好者。
1、收获20本经典著作的阅读分享；
2、冷芸个人的行业观点分享20次；
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平台：千聊live
读书时间原则上是每2周的周六晚7：30到8：30。
冷芸个人行业观点分享，2周1次，10分钟；（与读书会交替进行）
所有课程均可无限次数回放。
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