我要内衣外穿，请提供适合我尺寸、胸型、肤色的内衣！
说起内衣，男童鞋们肯定不懂，女人贴胸穿的那块布，外人又看不见，为什么做得那么复杂，还卖得死贵……
不过，如今内衣的功能可不止保护乳房、提升胸部曲线之类的基本、单一功能。无钢圈、蕾丝边、泳衣式的内衣外穿款式正席卷时尚圈。
比如像这种，无钢圈、无衬垫、可外穿内衣bralette。
(图via网络)
又比如这种，有点像游泳衣或者舞蹈训练服的连体衣bodysuit。
（图via网络）
不管动作幅度多大，上衣都不会从裤子里跑出来。因为下面有个扣子，解决了上厕所的问题，就像宝宝穿的田鸡裤。
（图via网络）
设计出适合不同身材、胸型、以及肤色内衣的呼声，也越来越高。毕竟，不是每个女人都能拥有维蜜模特那样的身段和美胸。
最近，CNN就报道了内衣时尚圈正刮起的一股个性化内衣风潮。不少品牌都推出了满足顾客个性化需求的内衣。
(Via CNN)
For decades, padded push-up bras, lace-lined bodysuits and slim, voluptuous Victoria's Secret models have shaped public perceptions of what "sexy" looks like. But a growing number of lingerie brands are responding to discontent from consumers who want to see themselves better represented.
数十年来，有海绵垫的定型文胸、蕾丝边连体内衣，和苗条、妖娆的维蜜模特塑造了大众对于“性感”的认知。但是，越来越多的内衣品牌开始关注顾客需求。顾客们想要通过内衣来更好地表现自己。
From offering a wider range of cup sizes and "nude" shades, to celebrating diversity in campaigns and on runways, intimate apparel labels are selling more than bras. They're selling inclusivity, too.
提供更多罩杯尺寸的选择和不同深浅的裸色内衣，在活动和T台上展现多样性，内衣品牌销售的不仅仅是内衣，他们也在销售多样性。
How designers are changing the conversation around lingerie (via CNN)
内衣品牌诸如ThirdLove正在迎合越来越多样化的顾客群 (via CNN)
根据锡安市场研究(Zion Market Research)发布的报告，全球内衣市场规模将由2017年的380亿美元增长到2024年的590亿美元。而且，顾客的口味也发生了变化。
时尚大数据公司Edited认为，相比传统的凸显乳沟的海绵垫塑胸定型内衣，无钢圈和运动型内衣更受欢迎。
而占据美国市场24%份额的内衣巨头维多利亚的秘密，正面临来自许多新品牌的竞争。这些新品牌迎合了顾客更广泛的口味。这些品牌为“性感”注入了更多内涵。
不仅丰满有型、大小适中的胸部可以性感，小胸、平胸，或者超大罩杯一样可以很性感。
Customers are embracing lingerie that encompasses alternative forms of sex appeal, and increasingly buying from brands that prioritize body positivity, comfort and proper fit.
客户青睐的这些内衣品牌优先考虑客户的体型、照顾到不同罩杯需求，舒适度以及合身程度。
How designers are changing the conversation around lingerie (via CNN)
增大的罩杯
一些独立的品牌，诸如美国的创业公司ThirdLove，在尺寸方面填补了市场的空白。此前，一些女性很难在市场上找到适合她们胸部大小的内衣。
当ThirdLove 的联合创始人Heidi Zak在2011年推出这个品牌时，她只是想提供比她经常光顾的维多利亚的秘密更合身的内衣。
推出自己品牌的内衣前，Zak还在谷歌工作。有次公司要办聚会，她从维多利亚的秘密买了件内衣搭配当天的衣服，却发现不太合适。由此，她想到了一定还有好几百万的女性有着和她类似的经历。于是，她决心利用数字技术，设计更合身的内衣。有了基本的想法后，她邀请丈夫David Spector作为联合创始人，创建了在线内衣销售品牌ThirdLove。
Heidi Zak和丈夫David Spector (via Forbes)
Using 600 million data points across metrics including breast shape and cup fit, ThirdLove promotes half-cup sizes. Today, the online-only brand offers 78 different sizes -- and is worth an estimated $750 million, according to Forbes.
他们运用在线问卷，收集到了6亿个数据点，涵盖胸型、罩杯合适度等指标，推出了多种半罩杯内衣尺寸。如今，这个在线内衣品牌可提供78种不同尺寸的罩杯。根据福布斯的报道，其市值达到了7.5亿美元。
But offering more sizes can be an expensive endeavor. The inflexibility of factory production makes it difficult to cater to everyone, according to Cora Harrington, author of the book "In Intimate Detail: How to Choose, Wear, and Love Lingerie."
《内衣插图指南：如何选择、穿戴以及喜爱内衣》一书的作者Cora Harrington认为，提供更多尺寸选择意味着更多的投入，而工厂流水线产品又很难满足每个人的不同需求。
"There are so many parts to a bra, sizes and variations to breasts, that it's impossible for any one brand to service every single bra-wearing customer adequately," she said in a phone interview.
“内衣包括很多组成部分，不同大小，不同胸型，因此对任何品牌来说，很难充分满足每个顾客的需求，”她在电话采访中说道。
According to Harrington, who also founded the Lingerie Addict blog, a single bra can contain at least 20 individual components, including lace, closures and straps. For a luxury garment, this number can swell to 40 or 50, she said.
作为内衣博客Lingerie Addict的博主，Harrington介绍说一件内衣包含了至少20个组成部分，包括蕾丝，搭扣和松紧带等。对于奢侈品牌的内衣，组成配件还可能多达40到50个。
Add the precision sewing and pattern-making required to adjust for different sizes, then piece everything together, and it can create a product that costs more than "what people feel is appropriate to pay for a bra."
加上精准的缝纫和款式制作，不同尺寸的内衣需要进行不同的调整，然后再将所有的部分拼起来。这样制造出来的内衣，要比人们所认为的一件标价合适的内衣要贵得多。
Rihanna's Savage X Fenty, for instance, produces lingerie for plus-size body types (up to 3X and 44DDD) in addition to straight sizes, with other labels going up to 46H or higher.
例如，蕾哈娜的内衣品牌Savage X Fenty，除了常规尺寸外，还为加大号的身材提供了3X和44DDD罩杯的内衣，其他一些品牌甚至有46H或更大的。
How designers are changing the conversation around lingerie (via CNN)
蕾哈娜的Savage X Fenty品牌在尺寸上提供更多选择性，提供不同深浅的“裸色”色调，以及起用多样化T台模特 (via Getty Images for Savage X Fenty/CNN)
多样化的顾客
The growing lingerie market is providing greater choice to another group of customers it has traditionally underserved: transgender shoppers.
此外，增长的内衣市场还为另一个顾客群提供了更大的选择范围。这个顾客群就是传统上一直受到冷落的变性者群体。
Montreal-based Origami Customs offers gender-affirming lingerie to transgender customers, among others. With trans visibility at an all-time high, the brand has doubled sales over the last four years, according to founder Rae Hill.
总部设在加拿大蒙特利尔的Origami Customs内衣品牌为变性者顾客提供内衣。Origami Customs创始人Rae Hill说，随着变性群体的壮大，这个品牌的销售在过去四年中翻了一番。
The label has recently expanded its line of binders, an undergarment used to flatten the chest, that it models on transmasculine customers.
这个品牌最近扩大了束胸内衣系列，这种内衣用来把胸部裹得平坦，是为变性顾客度身定制。
(Via Origami Customs and Rae Hill/CNN)
"I take the time to work with each customer one-on-one, and I do feel that this creates a level of safety and intimacy that isn't available in the mainstream market."
“我花时间向每一位顾客提供一对一的服务。我确实感到这种服务创造了安全感和私密性，这在主流市场上是找不到的。”
"Being sexy is as different as each one of us," Hill added.
“就像我们每个人都各不相同，性感也有各种形式，”Hill补充说。
Racial diversity is also a growing force in the lingerie market. Take Rihanna's aforementioned label, which has been praised for producing a variety of "nude" tones for different skin colors. Similarly, ThirdLove's recent line of T-shirt bras offers nine shades of "naked."
种族多样性也是推动内衣市场的增长动力。就拿蕾哈娜的品牌来说，它因推出了不同深浅的裸色产品来搭配不同的肤色而备受推崇。同样的，ThirdLord最近的T恤内衣系列也推出了9种不同深浅的“裸色”内衣。
How designers are changing the conversation around lingerie (via CNN)
表现手法
Inclusivity isn't just about selling lingerie to diverse customers -- it's about doing so visibly. This means using models of all shapes, sizes and colors in fashion shows and campaigns.
多样化不仅仅是将内衣卖给不同的顾客——而且还要生产不同的内衣。意思是，在时装秀和活动中使用不同身材、体格、肤色的模特。
Take Lonely Lingerie, for instance, which claims to portray women in a realistic way by refusing to use Photoshop -- or even hair and makeup stylists -- in its campaigns. The brand's models include women with 35 different bra sizes and from a variety of backgrounds.
拿Lonely Lingerie举例来说，这个品牌声称在他们的活动中，拒绝使用Photoshop，甚至不用发型师和化妆师，以现实的方式呈现女性形象。这个品牌的模特有35个内衣尺寸，而且她们来自不同的背景。
(Via Lonely Lingerie/CNN)
Founder Helene Morris said that, when she started the label in 2009, "there was no one in the lingerie world who was speaking in a way we related to at all." Her brand's "Lonely Girls" project featured senior models, breastfeeding mothers, pregnant women and disabled women, all photographed in natural light.
品牌创始人Helene Morris说，当她2009年创立这个品牌时，“内衣界没有一个人以我们这种方式来呈现模特。”她品牌下的“Lonely Girls”系列以年长的模特，哺乳期的母亲、孕期的妇女，以及身有残疾的女性为特色，全都在自然光状态下拍摄。
"We really wanted to give the power ... to the person being shot -- how they want to be shot, how are they most comfortable and involving the woman in that process," Morris said in a phone interview.
“我们真的想要给被拍摄者以力量，让她们决定如何被拍摄，怎样拍摄让她们感觉最舒服，使她们投入整个过程，”Morris在电话采访中说道。
How designers are changing the conversation around lingerie (via CNN)
你怎么看这种内衣潮流？欢迎留言分享你的观点！
整合：Du Qiongfang
原文：CNN
图／题图：CNN, Forbes
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