Take a Literary Journey Round West Lake | Travel
On World Heritage Day, we take a look at Hangzhou’s iconic West Lake
是谁把西湖打造成了旅游胜地？西湖十景又是怎么选出来的？
Hangzhou’s West Lake (西湖) has been an inspiration to poets, painters, and novelists for centuries. The pristine 49-square-kilometer UNESCO World Heritage Site is dotted with pagodas, temples, bridges, and islands (both natural and human-made)—and steeped in mythology, legend, and history.
West Lake’s profile first began to rise during the Sui dynasty (581 – 618), when various waterways across China were connected into what became known as the Grand Canal, with Hangzhou and West Lake as its southernmost terminus.
The real golden age of West Lake, however, began during the Southern Song dynasty (1127 – 1279), when Hangzhou, then known as Lin’an (临安), was made the capital by Emperor Gaozong of Song. Emperor Gaozong devoted much of his time to planning the architecture and landscaping of the imperial city. The artistically talented emperor oversaw the construction of some of Hangzhou’s most magnificent palaces, which were said to have had such masterful aesthetics that they came to define Southern Song architecture.
As the capital city, Lin’an attracted talented scholars, writers, and artists, giving rise to many lake-themed shanshui (山水) landscape paintings. Painters and poets strove to capture the beauty of the lake and express the harmonies of humans and nature.
During this period, records began to refer to the Ten Scenes of West Lake (西湖十景). Rather than tourist destinations, these scenes are rooted in a 12th-century aesthetic tradition that inspired some of the best literature and art in Chinese civilization.
The first of the Ten Scenes is “Spring Dawn at Su Causeway (苏堤春晓),” a pedestrian walkway across the lake named after 11th century poet and official Su Shi (苏轼). As governor of Hangzhou, Su ordered West Lake dredged to create the causeway, employing more than 200,000 workers. In so doing, Su set Hangzhou apart from other cities across China and the world for its advanced urbanization—a balanced blend of nature and city life.
Despite the cultural vitality of Lin’an during the Southern Song, the city’s place as a great Chinese capital ended with the arrival of Kublai Khan’s army in 1276. But the dynasty left a legacy of architecture, poetry, and culture that endures to this day. It was this conquered empire that Marco Polo visited. The newly installed Yuan (1206 – 1368) government attributed the fall of the Southern Song to the state of West Lake, which had fallen into disrepair.
It wasn’t until 1503 in the Ming dynasty (1368 – 1644) that an official named Yang Mengying (杨孟瑛) would save the lake. Yang carried out a large-scale dredging and renovation project for West Lake and nearby scenic sites. The famous Su Causeway was strengthened and widened, and adorned with willow and peach trees. Another causeway was built parallel to Su’s, named “Yanggong Causeway” (杨公堤) or “Lord Yang’s Causeway” after Yang Mengying. Today, you can take this 3.4-kilometer trail through the major and minor attractions by the lake.
The Ten Scenes, which had slipped out of historical memory with the fall of the Southern Song, came bubbling back to the surface four centuries later when the Kangxi Emperor of the Qing dynasty (1616 – 1911) took an interest in and rejuvenated the lake with his works of calligraphy, and marked each of the ten scenic spots with inscriptions. His grandson, the Qianlong Emperor, also wrote a poem for each of the ten sites.
Spring Dawn at Su Causeway
Breeze-ruffled Lotus at Quyuan Garden
Quyuan Garden’s lotus lilies bud with ebullient pink, and in high summer you’ll see plenty of steam rising from the green surface of the pond. The garden used to be a brewery for making wine in the Southern Song dynasty. Both bouquets of summer lotus flowers and fresh wine punctuated the musings of poets and wanderers who meandered through this stunning scenery.
Autumn Moon over the Calm Lake
When late autumn looms and the moon is full, the scenery here is renowned for its romance. Located at Bai Causeway’s western point on Gushan Hill, this spot is one of the best places for a panoramic view of the lake. Of course, you can also jump on a boat, cruising while appreciating the serenity of the moonlit lake like a real Song dynasty connoisseur. Considering the great Emperor Kangxi of the Qing dynasty enjoyed this particular spot, it’s guaranteed not to disappoint. With a garden, a stele pavilion, a winding bridge, and Gushan Hill behind you, there is plenty to see before nightfall.
(Yu Guangming)
When rare snow hits, this area is abuzz with visitors (particularly couples) looking for that perfect snapshot of the Broken Bridge. Located at the east end of the Bai Causeway in the north of the lake, the Broken Bridge, contrary to its name, is firm and intact. It only appears to be broken after a snowfall when the sunny side of the bridge melts the newly-fallen flakes. With its dark brown surface revealed, it creates an illusion that the bridge is broken from the Bai Causeway. But what really makes this site spectacular is its role in the famous folk tale “Legend of the White Snake”—as the spot where the couple in this romantic story first met—making it one of the most romantic spots in Hangzhou.
Viewing Fish at Flower Pond
Swirls of orange, albino, and calico carp make these ponds into living paintings. Nestled at the southern end of Su Causeway, the area was once owned by a few ancient officials and literati as a lakeside villa, and over time it has been decorated with gardens of rockeries and pavilions. The Red Fish Pond is located at the center of the garden complex. An interesting scene at this spot is when the brocade carps vie for fallen peach blossom petals in spring. Outside the garden in the free waters of the West Inner Lake, an even larger and no doubt happier school of fish can be found.
(Chen Zhenxian)
This is where locals and visitors alike go to get away from it all: 200,000 square meters of beauty and willows. In spring, the songs of the orioles ring through the willows, mixed with elderly Hangzhou residents crooning classical Chinese opera odes. The orioles in China aren’t just favored for their song; they’re a symbol of vitality and the natural order. Ming dynasty poet Wan Dafu wrote of this place, “The singing of the orioles never stops in the forest; also, somewhere on the pleasure boats over the lake comes more music.”
Three Pools Mirroring the Moon
(Yu Guangming)
If you find yourself far from Hangzhou and still hanker for the Three Pools Mirroring the Moon, just take a one-yuan note from your pocket and look at the back. Obviously much better in person, this little islet features three two-meter-tall pagodas with an almost alien-like ethereal aesthetic. Marked with five round holes, these pagodas are lit at night to match the shimmering geometry of the full-autumn moon. Booking a boat early is a necessity; long queues are inevitable for what is arguably one of the most famous and historic art installations in China—an island set up in the shape of the character “田” (meaning “farm field”). If you spend enough time here, you may find yourself wondering, as did the original creators centuries ago, whether this is a land of immortal fairies.
Twin Peaks Piercing the Clouds
(Chen Zhenxian)
Whether you’re in it for the exercise or just trying to get a little closer to the divine, the north and south peaks of the eastern stretch of the Tianmu Mountain range can’t be missed. The best viewing spot for the twin peaks is by the Hongchun Bridge in the northwest corner of West Lake. If you’re lucky enough to be visiting on a foggy day, you will see both peaks poking through the haze during a morning stroll. About five kilometers apart, the South Peak is over 256 meters tall, about 100 meters shorter than the Northern Peak. A hike to the North Peak will take you through the Lingyin Temple scenic area.
Leifeng Pagoda in Evening Glow
(Ziyou)
The “glowing” reputation of this pagoda can be seen in the evening, when the hues of regal Buddhist red shine with the sunset. But, if you mention this site to anyone in China, the first thing to come to mind is the myth of the White Snake, who, legend has it, is still trapped beneath this towering monolith.
Evening Bell Ringing at Nanping Hill
(Yu Guangming)
At first sight, this spot might not seem to have any particular importance, but just close your eyes and listen. Around 4pm every day, the evening bell inside Jingci Temple on the northern slope of Nanping Hill resonates against the limestone hills; the sound travels across the lake and echoes when it meets the igneous stone of Geling Hill. The sound was of course more resonant in the bell’s younger days without the noise of the modern city, but this is still one of the oldest attractions on West Lake. Inside the maroon and butter-yellow Jingci Temple, pilgrims often line up and nurse home-brewed tea while monks ignite their incense sticks and pay homage. It’s also customary for local people in Hangzhou to visit Jingci Temple on Chinese New Year’s Eve to strike the bell in a spirit of respect and reflection.
Cover image from VCG