华盛顿邮报 | 特稿：避难匈牙利，我们不是坏蛋
ROSZKE, HUNGARY — Down the rusty train tracks littered with crushed water bottles and candy bar wrappers, a mass of red and orange hats emerged from the distance.
匈牙利罗兹克——压扁的塑料水瓶和糖果包装散落在锈迹斑斑的铁轨两旁，一大团红帽子和橙色帽子从远处冒了出来。
Ari Kiro, dressed in a sleeveless green T-shirt and white sweatpants, marched in the shallow grass beside them, a whistle in his mouth. He blew. They all stopped.
身着绿色无袖T恤、白棉裤的阿里-基罗穿过矮草丛，嘴里叼着哨子。他呼地一吹，众人就停住了步子。
Kiro counted the children: 11. He counted the adults: 34. Forty-five in all — extended family and some new friends — marching together to seek asylum from the war in Syria.
基罗开始点数。先点小孩，11个。再点大人，34个。一大家子人加上几个新朋友，拢共45个，为躲避叙利亚战争，他们一路走到这里。
Their past was another land, but they had no idea where their future would be. What they had known, back in Syria — in Aleppo, where most of them were from — was that colder weather and choppier waters were coming, and that the Hungarian prime minister was seeking to seal off this border with Serbia as early as Sept. 15.
身后已是他乡，可路在何方尚一片迷茫。大多数人出生在阿勒博，他们只知道这里天气寒冷，波浪汹涌，且匈牙利总理试图早在9月15日就封锁与塞尔维亚的边境线。
Not quite two weeks ago, they made a decision thousands in the Middle East are making, to run for the border, while it is still possible.
不到两周前，和中东地区成千上万的人一样，一家人决定越过边境，当时仍是可行的。
The family elected Kiro, a masseur, to lead the way. They picked up new friends in Turkey.
他们推选按摩师基罗带路，在土耳其又搭上几个同路者。
“We thought it would be easier if we all worked together,” said Mohamed Ismael, 30, a pharmacist. “Macedonia was the hardest. Two days without food and water. We had to walk in the dark.”
“我们以为只要同心协力，就会好办一点。”30岁的药剂师默罕默德-伊什梅尔说。“马其顿的路最艰难，两天没吃没喝，还必须在夜里行路。”
“We crossed that river,” added a woman clad in a headscarf and a straw hat, age lines creasing her 65-year-old face. She shook her head. “We’re so tired.”
“我们还过了河呢”，一个65岁的老妇人补充说。她裹着头巾，又顶了个草帽，脸上爬满着皱纹。她摇了摇头，“我们是在太累了。”
Ismael held her hand and said, “We’ll keep going, Mom.”
伊什梅尔抓住她的手说：“我们还得走下去，妈妈。”
Over the past month, the daily averages of people crossing into Hungary have edged up from 2,000 to more than 3,000, according to the officials from the U.N. High Commissioner for Refugees. On Wednesday, there were Syrians and Afghans. Iraqis. Nigerians. Some 42,000 are expected to cut holes through fences and cross train tracks over the next 10 days, the U.N. refugee agency said, escaping what officials called a crisis at home and entering into another crisis abroad.
联合国难民署官员表示，上个月，每天涌进匈牙利的难民由2000人上升到3000多人。周三的难民中有叙利亚人、阿富汗人、尼日利亚人。该官员表示，未来十年预计约42000人将撕开铁网，跨过铁路，逃离联合国所说的国内危机，却走进另一场发生在国外的危机中去。
Kiro blew the whistle again. He wanted Ismael’s mother in the front of the line, then the small children behind her. Then the women. “Two by two,” he ordered in Arabic, walking the line. The afternoon heat beat down.
基罗又吹了声哨。他想让伊什梅尔的妈妈走在前面，小孩子跟在后头，然后是女人们。“两两一排走”，他用阿拉伯语喊话，午后热得像下了火。
“Where are we?”asked Ibrahim Abdo, 30, a chef and a bartender. When Abdo learned that they had reached Hungary, he smiled. “What happens next?”
“咱们在哪儿啊？”30岁的厨子兼酒保伊卜拉欣-阿布多问。知道他们已经到了匈牙利，阿布多笑了。“接下来怎么着？”
In front of them were full buses, some tents and a handful of police officers who had developed a reputation for being overly aggressive in a country that did not want to shelter Muslim migrants.
前面是满员大巴车、几百顶帐篷和一群凶巴巴的警察，这个国度不愿接受穆斯林移民。
Kiro looked ahead and shrugged, “I don’t know.”
基罗望着前方，耸了耸肩说：“谁知道呢。”
Then he blew his whistle. It was time for them to walk past the police.
他吹了声哨，这会子要碰到警察了。
Up until last week, this area near the border was a quick stop before migrants were dispatched to a fenced-in camp a 20-minute walk away. There, they would get processed and put on a bus to Budapest and then, ideally, to a country that was willing to help, such as Germany or Sweden.
直到上周，这一边境地区是短暂的歇脚处，随后他们会被送进装有围栏的难民营，离这里20分钟脚程。那里有人受理他们，把他们装上大巴送到布达佩斯去，然后再送愿意帮助他们的国家去，德国或瑞典，理论如此。
That camp became so full that the Hungarian government set up a second. And since that one filled up, refugees have had to wait near this checkpoint.
难民营拥挤不堪，于是匈牙利政府又建了一个，可第二个也人满为患，难民就只好在检查点候着了。
The influx into the country had become so great and the flow out of the camps had become so slow that volunteers went into town to buy tents for waiting families. By Wednesday, the United Nations had 350. A tent city had been erected on a spit of dirt between a wheat field and a bed of dried sunflowers.
流入该国的人太多，流出难民营的速度却很慢，志愿者只好进程去买帐篷，给候着的家庭住。截至周三，联合国提供了350顶，一座帐篷城在一块麦田和一片干枯的向日葵田之间拔地而起，尘土飞扬。
It was littered with used underwear, decongestant, meal replacement bars, enriched water, old phone cards, receipts in Greek and Cyrillic, and shoes caked in mud. Men brushed their teeth and spat onto the ground. Children giggled as they watched an empty orange tent, lifted by the wind, float in the air like a kite.
四处丢弃着穿过的内衣、感冒药、代餐棒、富集水、旧电话卡、希腊语和斯拉夫语写的收据，以及黏在泥里的鞋子。看到橙色的空帐篷被风卷起，像风筝一样在空中飞舞，孩子们竟吃吃地笑出声来。
Inside the camp, a parliament member named Timea Szabo said, crowds were trying to rush the police and were confused about instructions because there were no Arabic interpreters.
难民营里，Timea Sazbo议员说，人们试图冲击警察，他们听不懂话，因为没有阿拉伯语翻译。
Mark Wade, a volunteer with a humanitarian organization called Migszol Szeged, said, “Things have gotten to a new low. More and more people have heard about what is happening, and more people are scared they will close the border. And they think the border will help? Do they think they can just arrest them?"
人道主义机构Migszol Szeged的志愿者马克-韦德：“情况变得很糟糕。越来越多的人知道正在发生的事了，更多的人害怕他们会关闭边境。他们认为能一关了之？他们以为可以逮捕难民吗？”
Agnes Juhasz, who was providing medical support, said she had seen a host of children with dysentery as well as parents with ear and eye infections from their 10- and 12-day journeys.
提供医疗救助的艾格尼丝-朱阿兹说，她碰到一群患上痢疾的小孩，走了10天甚至12天，他们的父母耳朵和眼睛也都感染了。
She helped remove the shoes of a 55-year-old man, and his feet were gnarly and deformed. “Torture,” he told her, from ISIS.
她给一个55岁的男人脱下鞋，双脚崎岖变形。“因为酷刑。”他告诉她，ISIS的杰作。
Later, Kiro and his family walked within the tent city. The mixed odor of trash, bus exhaust and waste was so strong that women covered their noises with their hijabs. They set mats in the dirt. The children ran, and the men hugged.
过了一阵儿，基罗一家子人走进帐篷城。这里混杂着垃圾、大巴尾气和废水的浓烈气味，女人们都用头巾捂着鼻子。她们把垫子铺在土上，孩子们四处乱跑，男人们相互拥抱。
“Syria is no more to me,” said Mohamed Kiro, 34, also a masseur, as he watched his son, Bashir, play with a stuffed snake. “Now it is time for a new life.”
“叙利亚再也不属于我了。”34岁的默罕默德-基罗看着儿子巴希尔说，他也是一名按摩师，儿子正在玩一条吃饱了肚子的蛇。“现在该开始新生活了。”
They had seen their neighbors disappear and friends die.They couldn’t smoke in public, and the cocktail maker could make no cocktails. A 22-year-old talked about being forced to join the army, when all he wanted was to be a literature major. And then, he was in danger because his beard wasn’t long enough.
他们目睹了邻居消失，友人送命。他们不能在公共场合抽烟，调鸡尾酒的也不能调酒了。一个22岁的小伙子说自己被迫参军，而他一直想学文学。后来，因为自己的胡子不够长，就陷入了险境。
“Germany has all the services, and they welcome us, and I hope I can go back to my studies,” said Osama Suleimon. “But we can go anywhere. I understand why some countries would think we are bad Muslims, because they see terrorists on the TV. But they will like us when they see the depths of our souls.”
“德国什么都有，他们欢迎我们，我希望我能继续我的学业。”奥萨马-苏莱蒙说。“可我们哪都可以去，我明白为什么有的国家认为穆斯林是坏蛋，他们在电视上看过恐怖分子。可他们了解我们灵魂深处的东西，就会喜欢我们。”
Volunteers offered them bread and canned chicken, while the children received chocolate. A man fell asleep in the afternoon sun. As he lay, his grip on a pack of Lucky Strike cigarettes loosened.
志愿者给他们分发面包和鸡肉罐头，孩子们还能收到巧克力。一个男子在午后的阳光下睡着了，躺在地上，紧握着的一包Lucky Strike香烟的手松弛下来。
“They say 27 hours here,” said Ari Kiro, the whistle now in his pocket. “And then a day in the camp. We can do it.”
“他们说在这儿等27个小时。然后在难民营呆上一天，这些我们都没问题。”阿里-基罗说，他的哨子已经放回兜里了。
The family set up some of the donated tents. Now the tent that once floated in the air was being hammered into the ground, and 3-year-old Bashir giggled as he rushed inside.
一家人撑起几个捐赠的帐篷，刚才那个飞上了天的现在被牢牢钉在地上，3岁的巴希尔冲进帐篷里，仍然吃吃地笑着。