Nyonya Kitchen: Home Malay From Home
By Dominique Wong
Dining at Nyonya Kitchen is rather like eating in someone’s (admittedly flashy) home. There’s warmth, authenticity and, of course, really great food. It’s also educational – the same way that going to somebody’s house is like opening a book about his or her history.
Like, did you know that ‘Baba Nyonya’ is the name for the community of Chinese immigrants who settled in what is now known as Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia, between the 15th and 17th centuries? (‘Nyonya’ referred to the women, and ‘Baba’ the men.) The Baba Nyonya fused Malay cuisine with traditional Chinese flavors and, as the women chiefly cooked, the food was called ‘Nyonya cuisine.’ As in: ‘food from women.’ (Yeah, we know.)
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If you’ve already dined at former Nyonya Kitchen locations, or if you’re just really into British colonial history, this is probably not news to you. What is new, at least, is the restaurant’s slick design and setup in the new China World Mall, as well as a selection of fresh items on the menu, like light and flavorful salads and freshly pressed juices.
That said, don’t worry: Favorites like satay skewers, beef rendang and laksa all remain on the menu. The Nyonya-style vegetable cups (RMB28 for six) – crunchy pastry cups filled with carrots, fried onion and peanuts – are a surprise hit, while the red chicken curry (RMB58) also stands out. And we love the teh tarik (RMB22) – a sweet and earthy milk tea poured traditionally at our table for educational purposes.
Nyonya’s new CBD location means the restaurant is consistently packed, lending the small space a bustling atmosphere. And most familial of all – a large painting of a Nyonya woman overlooks proceedings.
Daily, 11am-9.30pm, China World Mall, BS3, North 5/F, 1 Jianguomen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号朝阳区国贸商城北区3期BS 5层 (8415 0863)
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