Beijing Restaurant Review: Cravings
By Noelle Mateer
When Nathan Zhang’s former restaurant was bricked amidst Beijing’s citywide renovations, he had some choice words.
“It’s violent and forceful, and unfair because we don’t get a say in it,” he told That’s
in August, after local authorities bricked over the windows of his
popular Xiang’er Hutong restaurant, White Tiger Village. “Businesses
here are forced to go out of business, and we don’t have a voice in the
situation […] It’s not the same hutong – it’s not even a hutong anymore
without these quirky businesses.”
But Zhang is not one to sit
around complaining. Instead, he went to work building a new concept.
Enter Cravings, his newly opened place just south of Chaoyang Park.
Ironically,
the new spot is just across another strip that fell prey to 2017’s
widespread ‘brickings’ (nowhere is safe). Liulitun Zhonglu was home to
Napa, before it was shut in the same manner as White Tiger Village. But
Cravings is on the opposite side of the street, in the comfort of a
mall. And what the new place loses in hutong charm, it makes up for
accessible, all-ages fun.
Cravings
strikes a rare balance: It is both family-friendly and hip. Its
lemon-yellow walls feature street-art-style paintings by local artists
and designers. Its menu offers sophisticated sharing plates,
kid-friendly nibbles, and a robust list of beer and wine. And during the
day, Cravings transforms into a haven for brunchers, with
reasonably-priced, creative brunch plates.
While kids romp in a
seriously tricked-out play area, the adults take part in the equally
serious business of eating. White Tiger Village was known for its
‘upscale chuan’r’ concept, but the idea here is less obvious – Cravings
makes simply good, shareable plates with Western and Asian flourishes.
We start with a pot of mushrooms, topped with an onsen egg and Yunnanese
ham (RMB52), and thrice-cooked crispy potatoes smothered in a tangy
sauce made with popular local spice brand, DaQian (RMB48).
But
the stars of the meal are the seafood dishes. Our tuna tartare (RMB98),
featuring egg yolk and thin slices of crispy sourdough, is like a
sinfully good poke bowl minus the rice – which is the lamest part of any
poke bowl to begin with, are we right? And we’re at a loss of words for
how to describe the Hokkaido scallop tataki (RMB118) – drizzled in a
hazelnut vinaigrette and burnt macadamia. Impress your date with this.
Dishes
run the gamut from comfort food to seriously impressive cuisine. But
what really makes them is the atmosphere in which they’re served: a
gastrolounge for hutong hipsters, smack in the middle of Chaoyang.
50m West of South Gate, Park Avenue Compound, Chaoyang 朝阳区公园大道生活广场喷泉北侧 (5719 2684)
Lievito Serves Up Delicious Classic and Gourmet Pizzas
Snacks and the City: The Latest Food & Drink News in Beijing
Hey Americans, There's Now a Cheesecake Factory in Beijing
For more Beijing Bar and Restaurant news, click "Read more"(阅读原文)below.