Sichuanese Restaurant Transit Has Reopened... Finally

By Noelle Mateer

Transit has reemerged after a painfully long hiatus – a hibernation that left Beijingers woefully lacking a restaurant that could pair wine with koushuiji. If you’ve never been to Transit, you ought to go. If you simply haven’t been in a while, it’s time get reacquainted.

But first, a rundown, because the gist remains the same: Transit serves modern, elegant takes on traditional Sichuanese dishes. Also, drinks. Really good drinks.

Transit 2.0 has reopened without Cicada Ultralounge, the sister (ultra) lounge next door – but the lounging lives on in a new space, positively dripping in chic 1930s-Shanghai vibes, where we sip on gin and tonics mixed with huangjiu (RMB80 and surprisingly smooth).

Nothing is traditional – what other restaurant mixes gin and yellow wine? – and yet, everything is deeply inspired by tradition. Owner and founder Catalin Ichim traveled to Zigong, a salt-mining town outside of Chengdu, to research the miners’ unique diet. Following tenets of traditional Chinese medicine, the cuisine is meant to protect miners from the ills of working in steamy, salty places – and therefore uses fresh chilis rather than dried. This culinary history is on show in our Zigong-style fava beans (RMB58), as well as in our Salt Miners’ Wild Eel Stew (RMB188) – two remarkable dishes you won’t find elsewhere in Beijing.

At Transit, spice is not violent – but neither is it mild. It starts as a gentle tingle that slowly builds into a buzz, and no, Transit does not spike its sauce with opium like the notorious Sichuan restaurants of Gui Jie. Yes, you can get high off of excellent cooking. (And also off of huangjiu gin and tonics.)     

N4-36, Sanlintun Village North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

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