其他
没想到新发地的三文鱼炸出了冒充它多年的虹鳟
6月12日,北京新发地批发市场切割进口三文鱼的案板上检测到了新冠病毒。于是,全国多地的超市和日料店都紧急下架了三文鱼产品。
但是,也有商家选择不下架三文鱼,还弄了个严正声明:
三文鱼(Salmon)
虹鳟(rainbow trout)
为什么很多无良商家会把虹鳟冒充三文鱼卖呢?一方面是它们确实很难区分,另一方面也是因为正宗的三文鱼供不应求。2015年到2019年,中国进口的三文鱼从40418吨上涨到74225吨。
据渔业媒体undercurrentnews报道,到2025年,中国进口三文鱼的量将达到15万吨。
The Norwegian Seafood Council (NSC) tempered its growth forecasts for China, predicting it could become the second-largest salmon market by 2025 or demand of about 150,000t to 200,000t. Chinese consumers on average only consume 60g of salmon a year, versus 1.3kg per capita in the US and 3.1kg per capita in France. A tripling of Chinese consumption to 180g per head takes imports to more than 200,000t a year.(挪威海产委员会(NSC)调整了对中国的增长预测,预测到2025年中国可能成为第二大三文鱼市场,需求量约15万吨至20万吨。中国消费者平均每年只消费60克三文鱼,而美国人均消费1.3公斤,法国人均消费3.1公斤。如果中国的消费量增加三倍,达到每人180克,那么每年的进口量将超过20万吨。)
当然,这种假设还是很美好的,80元一斤的三文鱼对很多中国家庭还是比较难以接受的。
undercurrentnews举了个例子,中国超市里200g的三文鱼卖9.2美元,而英国超市里只卖3.6美元。
At a Hema store in Shanghai, a 200g portion of chilled salmon belly retails for CNY 65.90 ($9.21), the same as it charges online. By comparison in Tesco, the UK's largest retailer, a 260g fresh Scottish salmon fillet retails at £3.85 ($4.72). Converted to equal measures, this is $9.21/200g and $3.63/200g.(在上海一家盒马门店,一份200克的冰鲜三文鱼肚售价为65.90元人民币(9.21美元),与网上收费相同。相比之下,在英国最大的零售商Tesco,一份260克的新鲜苏格兰三文鱼片售价为3.85英镑(4.72美元)。换算成等量的价格,就是9.21美元/200g和3.63美元/200g。)
为什么三文鱼在中国的售价这么高呢?他给出了三个理由。
物流成本高(High costs along supply chain)
中国离三文鱼的主产区都很远,而为了保证新鲜,只能全部采用空运。
China is far from key areas of production, and all fresh salmon must be imported by airfreight. Depending on the origin, airfreight adds $1-2 per kilogram to the cost of imported fresh salmon.
中国人喜欢大的三文鱼(Preference for large sizes)
中国人喜欢大块头的三文鱼,但是全球6公斤以上的三文鱼产量只占10%,这也推高了售价。
China’s preference for large-sized fish also adds to end prices. Just 10% of global production is of fish six kilograms or larger. Currently, prices stand at $2/kg above prices for 4-5kg fish.
进口关税较高(High import duties)
中国对某些国家的三文鱼进口关税较高,但是跟智利等国家签订了自由贸易协定,实行了零关税。
Import tax for fresh salmon is 10%, while sales tax is 9.5%. But China has signed FTAs with salmon-producing countries like Chile, Australia, and Iceland, allowing them to send salmon to China tariff-free. Norway is still yet to secure an FTA.虽然三文鱼价格目前还不便宜,但是虹鳟能不能代替三文鱼来满足广大消费者的需求呢?
其实也是可以的,它们的口感真的差不太多。但是虹鳟不能代替三文鱼作刺身的食材,因为作为淡水鱼,虹鳟是不能生吃的,它的寄生虫真的很多。三文鱼虽然也有寄生虫,但是海水鱼体内的寄生虫通过低温可以杀除,零下35度冷冻15小时以上即可,这也是三文鱼制品的生产标准。如果它们都做熟了吃的话,口感都很棒呢。
所以,在你不能分辨到底是三文鱼还是虹鳟的情况下,建议还是做熟了再吃吧。