创作故事||杨云：藏地画谈——高原集市
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画家 杨云
Painter Yang Yun
只要走进藏区，你一定会逛过不少城镇集市。
从拉萨八廓街最热闹的冲赛康到日喀则萨迦县偏远小城 的市场，从康巴若尔盖草原的集会到甘南夏河的县城，被藏民称为“葱堆”的市场，是最能留住我的地方。
As long as you walk into Tibetan areas, you will definitely visit many town fairs.
From the liveliest Tromzikhang on Barkhor Street in Lhasa to the market in the faraway town of Sakya County, Shigatse, from the gathering in the Zoige grassland to the county of Xiahe in Gannan, the market that Tibetans call "scallion pile" can keep me the most.
集市上川流不息的人群如同T台的模特儿闪亮登场，让人目不暇接，兴奋不已。尤以服装饰品店内，总是一群群衣着漂亮的 藏家姑娘在此汇集，那真是一道亮丽的风景。架起相机，守株待兔，一天下来定会收获满满......
The endless stream of people in the market is like catwalk models, which makes people dizzying and excited. Especially in the clothing accessories store, there are always groups of beautifully dressed collector girls gathering here, which is a really beautiful scenery. Set up the camera, wait for it, and you will "harvest" a lot in one day...
沿街的地摊，远道而来的山民们，摆满了自产的紫皮土豆、苹果、核桃、糍粑、酥油和叫不出名字的山货。
The stalls along the street, the mountain people from afar, filled their area with self-produced purple potatoes, apples, walnuts, glutinous rice cakes, ghee, and unnamed mountain products.
如果碰巧遇上了珠宝交易的场合，还真是你的运气。这种交易之地几乎是男人们的天下。来自不同地方的藏民汉子操着各自的方言交流。他们个个胸前，腰间，腕手之中佩挂着奇异的珠宝，绿松石 、蜜蜡、手镯、藏刀...... 应有尽有，让你眼界大开。
If you happen to encounter a jewelry transaction, you are really lucky. This kind of trading place is almost a world of men. Tibetan men from different places communicated in their respective dialects. One by one, they wear jewels on their chests, waists, and wrists. Including turquoise, beeswax, bracelets, Tibetan knives... There is everything that makes your eyes open wide.
往往这种场合没有喧嚣的热闹，男人们轻声耳语，凝神品鉴 ，以一种 不知不觉的“袖筒生意”的古老交易方式，谈妥了一桩桩生意。
There is often no hustle and bustle on such occasions. The men whispered softly, concentrating on tasting, and negotiated a deal in an unknowingly ancient trading method of "sleeve business".
记得在夏河晒佛会的前一天的集市上，我一边忙着抓拍 眼前精彩的形象，一边留意着一对年轻的夫妇与一商人交易天珠。一阵风平浪静的交流后，年轻人得到了一对天珠。我立即迎上前向其讨教，也许得到了心爱之物的高兴，他一口气给我道出了许多天珠的奥秘。他指着刚买到的两枚天珠说：请来的这两枚天珠都是双眼天珠，他们夫妻各一枚，天珠是含玉质及玛瑙成分的矿石，有磁场，经过打磨而成。单眼天珠象征智慧，双眼寓意夫妻和睦，三眼代表财富，四眼表示平安，五眼喜乐，六眼大顺，七眼心想事成，八眼吉祥，九眼最为名贵，寓意佛法圆满。
I remember that at the market the day before the Xiahe Sho Dun Festival, I was busy capturing the wonderful image in front of me while watching a young couple trading dzi beads with a businessman. After a calm exchange, the young man got a pair of dzi beads. I immediately greeted him and asked him for advice. Perhaps he was pleased by the item he loves. He told me many mysteries of Dzi Beads in one breath. He pointed to the two dzi beads he had just bought and said: The two dzi beads that he invited are both double-eyed dzi beads, one for each of the husband and wife. The dzi beads are ore containing jade and agate and have a magnetic field, made after polished. One-eye dzi symbolizes wisdom, two eyes signify harmony between husband and wife, three eyes represent wealth, four eyes represent peace, five eyes is joy, six eyes is smoothness, seven eyes means success, eight eyes are auspicious, and nine eyes is the most precious, implying the consummation of Dharma.
一向崇尚简单的我，对珠宝玉器仅赏其精美，没有收藏佩戴的爱好，但对藏民手执的转经筒却情有独钟，一直想拥有一枚经筒。
I always admire simplicity, I only appreciate the exquisiteness of jewelry and jade, but I don’t have the hobby of collecting and wearing them. However, I have a soft spot for the prayer wheel held by Tibetans and have always wanted to have one.
记得二十多年前，在川藏阿坝黑水县的集市上，一位老者摇着转经筒迎面匆匆走来，手中的转经筒吸引了我的眼球，我转身与老者并行，以扎西德勒的问候开始了交流。
I remember more than 20 years ago, at the market in Heishui County, Aba, Sichuan, an old man walked in a hurry while turning the prayer wheel. The prayer wheel in his hand caught my eye, and I turned to walk with the old man. And the communication began with Tashi Delek’s greetings.
老人十分友善，我问及手中的转经筒什么地方可以买到，老者言：手中经筒是家传之物，并随手递过转经筒让我摇转，说佛会保佑喜乐平安。
The old man is very friendly. I asked where I can buy the prayer wheel. The old man said: The prayer wheel in my hand is a family heritage, and he handed the prayer wheel to me and said that the Buddha would bless joy and peace.
我接过转经筒仔细的观看，木质的筒柄油亮光滑，手握的部分明显细了许多，这是岁月留下的痕迹。纯铜铸造的筒壁呈古铜色，精美的凹凸雕花清晰流畅，显得温润沉厚，转珠是由一块立体镂空雕花图案纯铜铸成，一只小角缺损，由一串精致的小铜链 与筒身相连， 随手一摇，轻便自如，重量恰到好处，我冲口而出要买下这枚转经筒。
I took the prayer wheel and looked at it carefully. The wooden handle was shiny and smooth, and the grip part was obviously thinner. This is a trace of the years. The wall of the pure copper cast tube is bronze, the exquisite concave-convex carvings are clear and smooth, and are obviously warm and thick. The turning beads are cast from a solid hollow carved pattern of pure copper, one small corner is missing, and a string of delicate small copper chains and tubes connecting to the body, making it easy to shake, light and free, and the weight is just right, I blurted out to buy this rotating drum.
不想，老者回答干脆“自家用的不能卖”。我不死心，一路跟他来到一家临街藏饰品工艺品小店，他替下看店的老伴做起了生意。小店不大，架柜上摆满了不少工艺品，我看过几个转经筒都是新货，我惦记着老者的旧筒，我不断加价，开出600元的高价，执意想得到这枚经筒，要知道，九十年代初，600元 算是大款了 。
No, the old man replied simply, "You can't sell your own." I didn't give up, I followed him all the way to a small street-side jewelry and crafts shop, and he began to look after the shop for his wife. The shop is not big, and the shelves are full of crafts. The prayer wheels that I have seen are all new ones, I am thinking about the old man’s old ones. I keep increasing the price and offered a high price of 600 yuan. I insist on getting this one. You know, in the early 1990s, 600 yuan was considered a big amount of money.
见我心诚意坚 ， 老者思考良久后说：你实在喜欢，就请给你吧！600元太多，就380元 ，已经多收你的了。我欣喜若狂，立即拿出400元，连声说不用给零钱了。老者十分不舍把经筒给我。
Seeing my sincerity, the old man thought after a long time and said: "If you really like it, I will give it to you! 600 yuan is too much, just 380 yuan, you are overcharging." I was ecstatic, immediately took out 400 yuan, and repeatedly said that there was no need for change. The old man was very reluctant to give me the wheel.
突吉切、突吉切，我谢声不断。接过经筒正准备离开，老者叫住我，让我把经筒给他。我想，糟了，他不卖了？他轻轻旋开筒上部的盖子，从筒中取出一卷发黄的经文将其展开，一缕花白的头发卷藏在其中，老者说：这经文与头发是寺里的高僧开过光，会保你一生喜乐平安，吉祥如意。
Tujiche, Tujiche, I keep thanking him. The old man stopped me and asked me to give him the prayer wheel. I thought, oh no, is he not selling it anymore? He gently unscrewed the cover on the upper part of the tube, took out a curled yellow scripture from the tube and unfolded it. A strand of gray hair was curled in it. The old man said: This scripture and hair were blessed by the monks in the temple. It will keep you happy, safe, and lucky throughout your life.
一枚小小的转经筒，深藏了如此多的佛意禅心。至今，这枚转经筒一直伴我搬过三次家，，都高高的供奉在我的书架上，保佑着一家人几十年的喜乐平安，见证着我为雪域苍生立照传情的日日夜夜......
A small prayer wheel contains so many Buddha intent and Zen mind. So far, this prayer wheel has accompanied me to move home three times, and it has been enshrined on my bookshelf, blessing the happiness and peace of my family for decades, and witnessing the day when I stand for the people in the snowy area...
杨云作品 Yang Yun's Works
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