创作故事||杨云：藏地画谈——黑帐篷
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画家 杨云
Painter Yang Yun
跑马溜溜的山上，一朵溜溜的云，端端的照在康定溜溜的城，月亮弯弯，康定溜溜的城……
On the sledding mountain, a slick cloud illuminates the slick city of Kangding, the moon is curved, the slick city of Kangding...
这首著名的“康巴情歌”就源于四川甘孜的塔公草原。“塔公”意为“菩萨喜欢的地方”。
This famous "Kangba Love Song" originated from Tagong Grassland in Ganzi, Sichuan. "Ta Gong" means "a place that Buddha likes".
相传公元641年，文成公主远嫁西藏，唐太宗赐予一尊释迦牟尼十二岁等身佛像。当迎亲队伍行径塔公草原时，佛像落地不愿前行。众人想尽一切办法不能移动。此刻，佛像开口说话：要留住此地。无奈之下，文成公主下令就地采集沙金复制佛像一尊留在塔公草原。从此，塔公草原闻名于川藏高原……
According to legend, in 641 AD, Princess Wencheng married far away in Tibet, and Emperor Taizong bestowed a twelve-year-old Buddha statue of Sakyamuni. When the welcoming team walked on the Tagong grassland, the Buddha statue fell and did not want to move forward. Everyone tried every means but could not move it. At this moment, the Buddha statue speaks: keep this place. In desperation, Princess Wencheng ordered the collection of sand gold and made a copy of the Buddha statue to stay in the Tagong grassland. Since then, Tagong Grassland has been famous in the Sichuan-Tibet Plateau...
每进川藏，塔公、红原、若尔盖等几大草原都是我的必经之地。
Whenever I enter Sichuan and Tibet, Tagong, Hongyuan, Zoige, and other large grasslands are all my must pass.
夏秋之际，惠风和畅，广袤的茵茵绿草地望不到尽头，奇异的野花争相绽放，逐水而居的黑色帐篷炊烟袅袅，微风中不时飘来阵阵奶茶的浓香。成群的牛群悠闲的散落在草丛中，花香四溢，蜂蝶飞舞。远处银装披挂的雅拉神山拔地而起，静静地守护着塔公草原。
In the summer and autumn, the breeze is peaceful, the vast grassland can't be seen to the end, the bizarre wildflowers are rushing to bloom, the black tents that stand by the water curl up with smoke, and the breeze comes from time to time with the aroma of milk tea. Herds of cattle are scattered leisurely on the grass, flower scent is overflowing, bees and butterflies are flying. In the distance, the sacred mountain of Yala draped in silver, rose from the ground, quietly guarding Tagong Grassland.
的确，这真是一个来了就不想离开的欢喜之地。佛陀因此留住。留下了一段美丽的传说，留下了来了就不想离去的塔公草原…...
Indeed, this is really a happy place that you don't want to leave when you come. The Buddha stayed for it, leaving a beautiful legend behind, the Tagong Grassland that you don’t want to leave after you stay...
记不得是多少次走进塔公草原了，那是一个晨曦初露的早晨，在一座黑色帐篷前的牦牛群中，一位藏妇正在忙着挤奶，一幅生动的劳作场景就在眼前。我抓起相机连续闪动着快门，留下了一串难忘的的瞬间。这时，男主人走出帐篷，身边跟着三个孩子，微笑着邀请我进帐篷做客。走进帐篷，篷内显得十分宽敞，正中安放的火塘内烧着牛粪，浓烈的干草味夹杂着牛粪的气味充溢帐篷，股股浓烟从篷顶的天窗升腾，温暖的舒适一扫草原清晨的寒意。一股亲和的气息油然而生……
I can’t remember how many times I walked into the Tagong Grassland. It was a morning when the dawn just begin. Among the yak herd in front of a black tent, a Tibetan woman was busy milking. A lively scene of work was in front of me... I grabbed the camera and flashed the shutter continuously, leaving a series of unforgettable moments. At this time, the male host walked out of the tent, followed by three children, smiled and invited me into the tent as a guest. Upon entering the tent, the tent appeared to be very spacious. The fire pit in the center was burning with cow dung, mixing with dry grass and filled the area with a strong smell. Thick smoke rose from the skylight on the roof, sweeping the chill on the grassland warmly and comfortably. An amiable breath emerged spontaneously...
篷内右侧拴着几只小牛犊，好奇的打量着陌生的来人。左边是简单的箱柜和床铺，火塘背后的篷边供奉着佛龛，几支藏香冒着缕缕青烟。我掏出香烟恭敬的双手递给主人。我们围坐火塘边拉起家常。男主人见我不时侧过头注视小牛犊，会意的地说：晚间冷，怕冻着它们，都拴近帐篷，外面在挤奶，一会就放它们出去吃奶，会给它们留足够的奶汁。
A few small calves were tied to the right side of the tent, curiously looking at strangers. On the left is a simple cabinet and bed, a shrine is enshrined by the canopy at the back of the fire pit, and a few Tibetan incense sticks are emitting green smoke. I took out the cigarette with respectful hands and handed it to the owner. We sat around the firepit to pull up the domestic trivia. The host saw me turning my head to look at the calves from time to time, and said knowingly: It’s cold at night, afraid of freezing them, they are all tied to the tent, milking is done outside, they will be release to drink milk later, there will be enough for them to drink.
言谈间，女主人提着一桶挤满的鲜奶走了进来，把奶倒进一只木桶内后，放出了小牛犊。
During the conversation, the hostess walked in with a bucket full of fresh milk, and after pouring the milk into a wooden bucket, the little calves were released.
火塘的大锅里煮着的砖茶汤渐渐变成红色。主人从锅里拿出盛茶的布袋，在茶汤里加入盐、糖和几块酥油后，不停的搅动，用温火烧到水油交融成了酥油茶。
The brick tea soup that was cooked in the big pot on the fire pond gradually turned red. The host took out the tea bag from the pot, added salt, sugar, and a few pieces of ghee to the tea soup, stirred it continuously and burned it on a warm fire until the water and oil blended into butter tea.
主人用木碗盛满酥油茶双手递给我，我也恭敬的用双手接过冒着热气的酥油茶，用手沾了少许奶茶向天弹洒三次后轻呷一口，微咸带着甜并夹着奶香的口感醇厚独特令人称绝。我指着旁边的酥油茶块问主人是如何把奶做成酥油的？他说：放在木桶内的奶发酵一夜后，倒入酥油桶内，用“甲洛”的打奶工具在酥油桶内上下抽动几百次后，奶中的油分离浮于表面，把浮油捞起，放入冷水盆反复捏成坨，就拍成扁圆形的酥油团了……
The host filled a wooden bowl with buttered tea and handed it to me. I respectfully accepted the steaming buttered tea with both hands. I dipped a little milk tea with my hands and sprinkled it to the sky three times and sipped it lightly. The creamy taste is unique and mellow. I pointed to the butter tea cube next to me and asked how the master made the milk into butter? He said: After the milk in the wooden barrel was fermented overnight, it was poured into the ghee barrel, and after twitching the ghee barrel hundreds of times with the "Jaluo" milking tool, the oil in the milk separated and floated on the surface. Pick up the oil slick, put it in a basin of cold water, and knead it repeatedly to form a flat round butterball...
告别主人，走出帐篷，篷前的牛群已赶到远处的草地放牧。女主人正忙碌地捡拾牛群一夜拉下的粪便，她双手从地面捧起一堆堆还冒着热气的牛粪堆放一堆，待风晒干后作为烧火煮饭的燃料。
Bid farewell to the owner, walked out of the tent, the cattle in front of the tent have rushed to the distant grassland to graze. The hostess was busy picking up the dung pulled down by the cows overnight. She picked up steaming cow dung from the ground with both hands and piled them up. After they were dried in the wind, they were used as fuel for cooking.
见我走出帐篷，她回头报以微笑，一声亲切的“扎西德勒”祝福，我的心被瞬间融化……
Seeing me walking out of the tent, she smiled back and gave a kind "Tashi Delek" blessing. My heart was instantly melted...
杨云作品 Yang Yun's Works
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