藏地画谈|杨云：灵魂的圣殿——大昭寺

Original 美国AIPU 美国国际摄影师联盟AIPU

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画家杨云

Painter Yang Yun

那是九十年代初，当我第一次走进藏区至今的二十年里，历经了春、夏、秋、冬，行程数万公里，所到之处总会见到结队的藏民餐风露宿，千里匍匐，用等身之躯丈量通往拉萨大昭寺的朝觐之旅。

It was the early 1990s. In the 20 years since I first walked into Tibetan areas, I have traveled tens of thousands of kilometers in spring, summer, autumn, and winter. Always seeing folks sleeping on the street, crawling for thousands of miles, and measuring the pilgrimage to the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa.

至此，朝拜大昭寺的宿愿就一直铭记在我的心中。

Thus, the wish to worship the Jokhang Temple has been in my heart.

十多年前的一次西藏采风终于如愿。第一次站在神往已久的大昭寺广场，心情分外激动！一大早，我就在大昭寺正门前架起相机守候，为创作系列作品“雪域苍生”搜集素材。

The dream finally came true on a trip to Tibet over ten years ago. For the first time standing in the long-awaited Jokhang Temple Square, I was extremely excited! Early in the morning, I set up a camera in front of the main entrance of the Jokhang Temple to collect materials for the creation of the series "Life in Snow".

天刚放亮，大昭寺门前已是人声鼎沸，来自四面八方的朝圣者从大昭寺正门外的小广场依次排开延伸到新建的大型广场。举目眺望，黑压压的人群中，上至被人搀扶的老者，下至几岁的孩童，双手合十，高举过头，五体投地，一次又一次朝大昭寺朝拜。伴随着低沉的“嗡、嘛、呢、呗、咪、哞”六字真经的吟诵声，和护手板滑过地面擦出的哗哗声交织，汇成了一部雄浑的交响乐在广场上空久久的回荡。此起彼伏的匍匐长叩如同涌动的波涛，一波推着一波的朝着我涌来。此刻，站在大昭寺门前的我感到被一股巨大的气场挤压得喘不过气来，注目地下的花岗石地板，被伏地的膜拜者用肉身蹭出的一道道光亮的凹槽，信仰之力的虔诚，深深的震撼了我的心灵。

As the day light up, the front of the Jokhang Temple was full of voices. Pilgrims from all directions lined up from the small square outside the main entrance of the Jokhang Temple to the new large square. Looking up, in the dark and crushing crowd, from the elderly who are supported by others to the children of a few years old, they put their hands together, raised their heads high, cast their bodies on the ground, and worshipped the Jokhang Temple again and again. Accompanied by the deep chanting of the Six-Syllable Scripture of "Om Mani Padme Hum", intertwined with the scratching sound of the handguard sliding across the ground, it merged into a majestic symphony in the square and reverberates for a long time. The prostrate one after another, like surging waves, rushed towards me. At this moment, standing in front of the Jokhang Temple, I felt squeezed out of breath by a huge aura, focusing on the underground granite floor, and the bright grooves rubbed out by the body of worshippers who slid on the ground. The power of faith deeply shocked my soul.

大昭寺，这座为藏地各教派共尊的“佛寺”在雪域高原至高无上的地位是如此的神圣，无可替代。

The Jokhang Temple, the "Buddhist Temple" respected by all sects in Tibet, is so sacred and irreplaceable on the snow-covered plateau.

大昭寺又名“祖拉康”。始建于公元七世纪吐藩王朝的鼎盛时期，历时三年，后经元、明、清三代扩建而成现存的规模。距今已有1300多年，主殿已达1400多年历史。当年松赞干布为供奉尼泊尔尺尊公主的释迦牟尼佛8岁的等身像和大唐文成公主带来的释迦牟尼12岁等身像而建。正门前矗立着三根石柱，在一根高达3米多的石碑上铭刻“唐藩会盟”的碑文。虽历经千年，其文字依稀可见：“彼此不寇敌，不举兵革。务令百姓安泰，所思如一。”碑文言辞真诚朴实，足见汉藏和睦的悠久历史。石碑旁安放一尊如化石般的古柳树桩，相传为文成公主亲手所植，被誉为“公主柳”。1409年格鲁教派的创始人宗喀巴大师为颂扬释迦牟尼的功德，藏传佛教各派僧众，在寺院举行了“传昭大法会”，故此，大昭寺名由此诞生。

The Jokhang Temple is also known as "Zulakang". It was built in the heyday of the Tufan dynasty in the seventh century AD. The construction lasted three years and was expanded to the existing scale by the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. It has been more than 1,300 years, and the main hall has a history of more than 1,400 years. Songtsan Gambo was built to enshrine the 8-year-old Buddha Shakyamuni statue of Nepal's Chizun princess and the 12-year-old Shakyamuni statue brought by Princess Wencheng of the Tang Dynasty. Three stone pillars stand in front of the main entrance, and an inscription of "Tang Dynasty Alliance" is inscribed on a stone monument over 3 meters high. Although it has gone over a thousand years, its words are faintly visible: "Never attack each other, do not engage in military revolution. Let the people be peaceful and think as one." The words on the tablet are sincere and simple, which shows the long history of Sino-Tibetan harmony. A fossil-like ancient willow stump is placed next to the stone stele. According to legend, it was planted by Princess Wencheng herself and was known as the "Princess Willow". In 1409, Master Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug Sect, held the "Tsongkhapa" in the monastery in order to extol the merits of Sakyamuni, and the monks of various schools of Tibetan Buddhism held the "Buddhist Dharma Meeting". Therefore, the name of Jokhang Temple was born.

仰望大昭寺正门殿顶，巨大的金色法轮和两侧的跪鹿在阳光下金光闪闪。这是藏传佛教的标志图腾。喻意佛法广大，生生不息。进的正门，是一块开阔的庭院，这里是藏传佛教中最高学位“格西”选择之地。来自藏地各大寺庙推出的杰出僧人在此举行激烈的辩经答辩，优胜者获得“格西”学位日后成为寺庙的高僧主持。

Looking up at the top of the main gate of the Jokhang Temple, the huge golden wheel and the kneeling deer on both sides glittered in the sun. This is the symbolic totem of Tibetan Buddhism. It means that Buddhism is vast and endless. Upon the main entrance is an open courtyard. This is the place to get the highest degree "Geshe" in Tibetan Buddhism. Outstanding monks from major monasteries in Tibet held a fierce debate here, and the winners obtained the "Geshe" degree and later became the monks of the monasteries.

径直走进庭院，正面是大昭寺主殿，这是供奉释迦牟尼12岁等身像的：“释迦牟尼佛殿”的至尊之地！也是千百年来为无数信众舍生忘死，千里追寻的膜拜圣地。他们历经磨难。三步一叩首，俯身向大地的叩拜，就是为了到此一拜，慰籍一生。

Going straight into the courtyard is the main hall of Jokhang Temple. This is the supreme place where the 12-year-old Shakyamuni is enshrined: the "Shakyamuni Buddha Hall"! It is also a holy place for worshipers for thousands of years that they weigh more than their lives. They have gone through hardships. Three steps with one bow, bowing to the earth with the hands, is to come here to pray and comfort them for a lifetime.

围绕主殿一周的转经道有380个转经筒，被称为“囊廓”，也叫“内圈”，环绕大昭寺外墙一周为“八廓”，视为“中圈”。每天来自天南地北的朝拜者绵绵不断。被父母牵着的小孩，被子女相扶的老人，坐在轮椅上的病人，走进大昭寺，膜拜释迦牟尼是他们今生今世的宿愿。

There are 380 prayer wheels around the main hall of the main hall. They are called "capsules", also called "inner circles". The outer walls of the Jokhang Temple are surrounded by "barks", which are regarded as "central circles." Worshipers come from all over the world every day. Children led by their parents, elderly people supported by their children, patients in wheelchairs, walk into the Jokhang Temple and worship Sakyamuni is their long-cherished wish in this life.

登上三楼顶的平台，极目远眺，远处的布达拉宫在蓝天下分外醒目。环视脚下一片古老的藏式民居，紧紧围绕在大昭寺的周围，寺外的八廓街依然是人潮涌动，在拉萨、在雪域高原，大昭寺永远是藏民心中灵魂的圣殿。

Climbing to the platform on the top of the third floor, looking far away, the Potala Palace in the distance is very eye-catching under the blue sky. Looking around at the foot of an ancient Tibetan-style residential house, closely surrounding the Jokhang Temple, the Barkhor Street outside the temple is still crowded. In Lhasa and on the snow-covered plateau, the Jokhang Temple will always be the holy temple for the souls of Tibetans.

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