D13: Beijing 第13天：北京
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September 8, 2018
2018年9月8日
I1-5: Beijing
北京
Just because I said I was going to do my best to make sure that I don't get into any altercations with local police this trip doesn't mean that I will in any way, shape, or form, cease to provide support to another foreigner who, having been NFA'd, wants to raise a fuss.
我说过这次旅行我会尽量不与当地警察发生任何口角，但这并不意味着我将用任何方法、方式、或形式，停止向另一个遭遇了“不允许外国人入住”的外国人提供支持，她想把事儿摆平。
Sabina flew to Ningbo this morning to visit friends before leaving China for an Australian 'working holiday visa'. Obviously she doesn't have a huge amount of funds available to just waste on hotel rooms so she decided to book a bed at an international youth hostel. She picked a place on the basis of it being relatively close to mass transit and to where her various friends live. On the booking website, the mixed gender dorms were all listed as being limited to Mainland Guests only "限内宾".
洒鼻趁用澳大利亚的“工作假期签证”离开中国之前，今早飞往宁波看望朋友。很明显，她没有足够的资金来浪费在酒店房间上，所以她决定在一家国际青年旅舍预订一张床位。她选择了一个离车站和朋友住处比较近的地方。在订房网站上，男女混合宿舍均标注为仅限内地客人入住。
After many multiple episodes of paid for reservations—including, on one occasion, reservations for 40 rooms—not actually translating into getting a room at the hotel where the reservation was made, I generally don't believe much in the concept of "advanced reservations". However, I do—very occasionally—book rooms in advance.
在经历了多次付费预订后——包括有一次预订了40间客房——但实际上一个房间都没有预留到，我通常不太相信“提前预留”的概念。不过，我确实——很少——曾经提前预定到房间。
At some time in the past four or five years, I started noticing that the cheapest windowless rooms, dorms, and some special offers were occasionally shown as being limited to only Mainland Chinese customers. I'm not sure when this started being done or how it is implemented but, it seems to me—if we are using logic—that the very existence of a sub-category of rooms which are specifically listed as being unable to be rented to foreigners should, in and of itself, prove that the other rooms are able to be rented to foreigners.
四五年前，我开始注意到，最便宜的无窗客房、宿舍和一些特价房偶尔显示仅限于中国大陆客户。我不确定这是何时、如何实施的，但是，在我看来，如果我们用逻辑推理，一个子类别的房间被明确列为不能租给外国人，这本身就应该证明其他房间可以租给外国人。
Over a day after making a booking for a dorm bed that very clearly was not at all listed as being limited to Chinese, paying for the bed, and getting a confirmation email, Sabina had second thoughts about the possibility that they might give her crap and called them on the phone. Where, of course, they told her that their hostel couldn't take foreigners.
在预订了一张很明显根本没有被列为仅限中国人的宿舍床位的第二天，付款后收到了一封确认邮件，洒鼻又担心他们可能会对她说废话，于是她给他们打了个电话。不出所料，他们告诉她，旅舍不能接待外国人。
"But your name includes 'International' and the space I booked doesn't have a restriction on it..." she protested, only to be told that they would call her back and let her know once they'd figured things out.
“但你们名称含‘国际’二字，而且我预订的床位没有限制……”她抗议道，结果他们说一旦搞定，会给她回电告知。
Myf and I found out about this over beer and smoked barbecue brisket tacos yesterday night because, at this point, they had neither called her back nor cancelled her reservation and refunded the money. Having previously heard from me the various epic tales of my putting my foot down and flat out refusing to be moved along (usually while on bike tours), and not really wanting to waste money, she wanted some pointers on what to do when the inevitable happened after she arrived in Ningbo.
昨天晚上，我和Myf喝啤酒吃烟熏烤肉卷玉米饼时知晓了这事，因为此时，他们既没有给她打电话，也没有取消她的预订，也没有退钱。她以前听过我讲各种关于我如何摆平一切成功办理入住旅馆的传奇故事（通常是在自行车旅行时），她不想浪费钱，所以她想知道当她到达宁波后不可避免的事情发生时该怎么办。
The inevitable, of course, happened.
当然，不可避免的事情发生了。
After she arrived, Sabina got NFA'd.
到了那里，洒鼻遭遇了“不允许外国人入住”。
First she tried to convince them she was allowed to stay. Then, she had us sending various things in Chinese from various bits and pieces of the recent round of research. We also included the absolutely not at all true phrase that if the hotel didn't let her stay they were liable to pay her 300% compensation on her booking.
首先她试图说服他们她是允许入住的。然后，她让我们把最近一轮研究的各种零碎东西用中文发给她。我们发给她的语术里包括了一句绝对不真实的话，如果酒店不让她入住，他们有责任支付预订金额300%的赔偿金。
Somewhere around this time, having still decided that she wasn't allowed to stay because it was "against the law", they at least decided to let her stay in their lobby and wait for the police who the hotel clearly expected was going to support them on it being against the law.
大约这时候，他们仍然决定不让她入住，因为这是“违法的”，至少他们决定让她呆在大堂里，等待警察过来，酒店显然希望警察会支持他们的违法行为。
I am to understand that the police were initially inclined to agree with the hostel that Sabina absolutely could not stay there on the grounds that the hostel "didn't have the license to accept foreigners" but, after she pulled out her phone and the various long paragraphs of legal Chinese we'd sent over WeChat, they weren't inclined to argue with her out of the very real fear that anyone who came this prepared might also be inclined to file a written complaint against them.
据我所知，警方最初倾向于同意旅舍的说法，说洒鼻绝对不能入住，理由是旅舍“没有接待外国人的执照”，但是，当她掏出手机展示我们通过微信发送的各种长段的法律条文后，他们不想和她争论，因为他们真的很担心做足功课的人可能也会对他们提出书面投诉。
Somewhere around this time the hostel owner arrived and discovered, to everyone's amazement and surprise and wonder that his computer already had the software for registering foreigners! Even more mysterious, other than them being sufficiently computer illiterate that they didn't know how to consistently type in English, it turned out that one the front desk staff already knew how to operate the software!
大约那会儿，旅舍老板来了，发现他的电脑里本来就有登记外国人的软件，这使每个人都大吃一惊！更神秘的是，他们并非完全不懂电脑，不知道如何用英文打字外，实际上其中前台早已知道如何操作软件了！
All of this hassle, including repeatedly telling her "it's against the law" and calling the police to back them up seems to have boiled down to one of the front desk staff not knowing how to register a foreigner and the other one staff backing her up once she tried to save face and blame the government for her inability to do her job.
所有这些麻烦，其中包括一再告诉她“这是违法的”和叫来警察支持他们，似乎都归结为一个前台不知道如何登记外国人，还有她试图挽回面子并指责政府不让登记外国人时另一个工作人员挺她。
(A few hours later, after Sabina got back to her Female Dorm Room, she discovered that one of the other people already booked into the same room as her was also a foreigner. So yeah, a hostel worker at a hostel that currently had foreign guests already staying there decided to tell a foreigner "you can't stay here, it's against the law" rather than admit "I don't know how to use the foreigner option on the hotel guest registration system". Then, because they didn't know the correct answer, the local police were willing to support the hostel worker's statement and were willing to try to force the foreigner to go to a "suitable hotel". Only because my friend is at least as much of a stubborn bitch as I am was it possible to confirm there is legally no such thing as a "foreigner hotel".)
（几个小时后，洒鼻回到女宿舍后，发现和她预订了同一房间的也是外国人。所以，是的，一个已有外国客人入住的旅馆的工作人员决定告诉一个外国人“你不能入住，这是违法的”，而不是承认“我不知道如何在宾馆客人登记信息公安系统上使用外国人选项”。然后，因为他们不知道正确答案，当地警察愿意支持旅馆工作人员的说法，并愿意强迫外国人去“合适的旅馆”。只是因为我的朋友至少和我一样是个顽固分子，才有可能确认法律上没有所谓的“外国人旅馆”。）
My day was a lot less interesting.
我的一天就没那么有趣了。
Myf and I went to Flat White Cafe inside the nearby Diplomatic Residence Compound, drank cold brew Yirgacheffe that was literally nothing short of a religious experience, and then went to Arrow Factory for dinner and more of their Rrrrrraspberry Sour beer. We also met up with Jack Liang who was once my intern at the 2007 Tour of Hainan.
Myf和我去了附近外交官邸里面的平白咖啡馆，喝了一杯超棒的冷萃耶加雪菲，简直是一场宗教体验，然后去了名为“箭厂啤酒”的饭店吃晚餐，喝了很多覆盆子酸啤酒。我们还见了梁兴华，2007年海南环岛赛时，他是我的实习生。
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