凤阳路338号应公馆是怎么被一位老洋房研究者发现率先报道的
1947年的上海行号路图录里,凤阳路上有大写三个字;应公馆,门牌号码凤阳路338号,如今338号还在的只不过是应公馆的副楼(北楼辅楼),百年历史大宅的主楼南楼要从凤阳路288弄内到底才能看到。一分为二,各走各门,原二亩占地面积,现在八分八自留地。
最近正在津津有味地看近代中国名人录,有的传记写得洋洋洒洒,有的小传简简单单,但不管怎样,1949年之前的很多年份,经过图书编辑收集整理归类的人物履历,让我们看到了Who' Who in China里精英之精英名单和标准肖像照片。我们在1924年中国诸业领袖人物小传里发现了邬达克996时期的建筑设计事务所老板却里的介绍,链接点进去看看:《邬达克在上海打工的那几年996 从1924年中国百业领袖人物小传第118页发现邬达克老板叫却里(R.A.Curry)》。
我们想应公馆的主人应该在某本中国(或者上海)名人录里,可惜没找到,倒是找到了白克路的来历,其真实名字叫伯基尔(A W Burkill),以后会详细说的,稍候。下图是从香港马会找到的,他曾经是上海跑马总会的主席。
1934-03-01 Burkill at the new Shanghai Race Club building
伯基尔先生得意洋洋地站在刚落成上海跑马厅大楼台阶上。
A W Burkill won 7 Hongkong Derby, 4 for Mody, 2 for Chater(1895, 1896, 1909, 1910, 1911, 1912, 1916)Burkill Road was named after him as he became Chairman of the Shanghai Rae Club. According to Governor Henry May 《Notes on Pony and Horse Racing in Hong Kong 1845-1887》page 38, A W Burkill (Bertie) and his brother Chuck Burkill were the last two jockeys highly praised in details. started as “There remain to be mentioned the brothers Burkill, whose fame resounds throughout the Far East.”
好了,进入正题,凤阳路288弄到底的应公馆南楼整幢过千平方米的百年大宅是如何进入老洋房研究者视野的呢?获准进入应公馆的的第一个历史研究者是何许人也?答案马上揭晓,下图是俄罗斯汉学家张霞(katya knyazeva)发布在Flickr上的一张照片,其中一位是上海最早探访应公馆的研究者,吊带衫美女是张霞。
上海滩能称呼为公馆的不多的,思南路上的周公馆最有名,东湖路有杜公馆(宁海东路杜公馆也在行号路图录上标注出来),现在东湖路7号被叫作大公馆绝对有创意( 大和杜的读音在上海话里分不清楚的);后来虹桥路和汾阳路的白公馆也名声鹊起。2009年,上图中的一位老房子研究者在一次德国领事馆举办的会议上遇到了Mr. To Foo Ying ,通过与这位应先生的交谈,凤阳路应公馆神秘的面纱慢慢地揭开并展示在世界面前。下图是目前我们能找到的应公馆主人信息:
仔细研究好一阵子以后,我们发现应公馆对应的人物名字原来在旧书里是这样的,1947年上海电话号码簿里有应子云两条信息,除凤阳路大宅外,他还在北京东路850弄25号有一处房产,1947年的地址不知道如今还对应正确与否还是旧屋新号?
应子云=Ying Tsze Yuen
To Foo Ying = 应道富
应子云的孙子应道富在他88岁的时候(应是2010年,读以下英文文章可以推断出)向长宁区文史专家张长根(原长宁区规划局高级工程师)全盘讲述了应家历史。这篇名叫《应道富与通和洋行三代人》的文章可以在上海地方志里查阅到。如下是最早探访应公馆的老洋房研究者的文章,还好我们当年做了右键保存这一动作,现在是查不到原始资料了,2009年Flickr :
Discovery of the Year:
The former Ying Family Residence
On abeautiful early summer night in May 2009, I had this special chance to attendthe regular ESH Meeting (Explore Shanghai Heritage) at the German Consulate andlisten to the night's special guest, Mr. To Foo Ying recalling about the life of Old Shanghai. Born in Shanghai to the wealthy Ying family, he left for HongKong after the liberation and according to Mrs. Gabi, the consul's wife, Mr.Ying went on to become a very successful businessman in the city. An alumnus ofthe St. John's the Divine, he revisited Shanghai with his veryelegant wife on this special occasion for an alumni gathering.
应道富毕业于圣约翰大学,从搜索到资料发现他曾担任圣约翰大学香港校友会的会长,写作者在“探索上海文化遗产”的晚会上遇到了这位带着优雅妻子出席的应家第三代人,介绍他们认识的是领事夫人。
A3-storey building with a "false fourth floor" located on the former Burkill Road, the present day Fengyang Road,it was built by To Foo's father(应该是应道富的爷爷), this house cost him 100,000 tils of silverwith all stone granite delivered from Soochow. It is interesting to note the rather hidden location of the house too. I have been in Shanghai for so many years and walked down this street for a trillion times but never will I know the existence of this unique building had I not attended thismeeting. To Foo said Mr Ying the Senior was once kidnapped thus he wanted his house to be hidden behind the markets so as to keep away from any unwantedattention.
哈哈,当年要在凤阳路上深入弄堂底看应公馆的人应该不多,知道故事的更少,我复印过有着“应公馆”这一页行号路图录给此宅后来产权拥有人孙总的助手,他也大呼第一次知道原宅主人姓氏。大宅门庭院深深深几许,躲在小马路上不被绑架者惦记是最关键和最要紧的。
Old Shanghailander ,写这篇文章的人在Flickr 上的网名,非常可惜的是写作者已经不再发帖,所有图片也已经不能再打开。,有些精彩留言还可以在张霞等人的帖子下读到。
The family owned a lot of properties, Linongs (Alley Houses) and lands all over Shanghai and one day,after 33 years living in the house, the People's Government wanted to sue Mr.Ying, Sr. because a wall of one of the family's Linongs on Tianjin Road was slanting. To Foo, who was 32 years old back then, represented his father on the 1st hearing.
"What do you have to compensate?"
"Nothing"
On the 2nd hearing: The same question and also the same reply from To Foo.Afterthe 3rd hearing, To Foo went home and told his father that he'd go to jail if he can do nothing to compensate and convinced him to sell the house.
细节写出来了,张长根对这段历史做了如下的说明:
应家在凤阳路住宅一直住了33年,1954年为维修出租的房屋以十七亿五千万元人民币(合1955年3月发行的新币十七万五千元)卖给全国供销合作总社,用6万元支付维修费用。他们在1956年用二万八千元向浙江兴业银行副经理买下了上方花园21号住宅,自住至1994年。应子云于1969年因病在上海去世,终年90岁。 http://www.shtong.gov.cn/newsite/node2/node4429/n107749/n105336/n105352/index.html
历史存在细节里, Old Shanghailander写得比较生动。
Mr. To Foo continued a very interesting part about the currency reform after the liberation which I couldn't quite understand but anyway, in the very end, they sold the house to the government for 175,000 yuan.Currently,the house is owned by a private advertising company. On a cold rainy afternoon,I went into the courtyard of the house and told the guard the words Boris (an architect, son of Mr. To Foo) taught me; I asked him earlier whether it's possible to visit the house. Then I was greeted by a Mr. Y-, who I suppose tobe the boss of the company.
Old Shanghailander还采访到了应道富的儿子,也就是应家的第四代人Boris ,他是一位建筑师。当Old Shanghailander敲开大宅门的时候,此房被一家私人广告公司用于办公,广告公司老板很早就认识,我们亲切地叫他老导演,上面几张照片是我拍的,打开三角屋顶的木椼条会很震撼,链接点进去看看:《买天买地就买老洋房 打开阁楼裸露出原始屋架 层高高还增加使用面积》。
Old Shanghailander 被许可在应公馆里拍摄照片,孙总吩咐手下协助拍摄,那位叫老周的门卫跟着提器材,还对拍摄位置提供意见呢,广告公司门卫是业余摄影爱好者。
A firm handshake and a friendly smile, he instructed the guard to show me around and I had this privilege to take pictures from any corners of the house, from the ground floor up to the "false fourth floor". Mr Zhao the guard, who happens to be a serious amateurphotographer, helped me to get my tripod setup in the narrow staircase and hallways, and gave me a lot of invaluable suggestions on getting the best angle inside the house. The stained glass, I would say, are the most beautiful things, so as the tiled floors and the beautiful balcony... ...
应公馆保留下来的老物件很多,壁炉、彩玻、地板,尤其是假四层打开以后是个整体连通的大空间,我也曾受邀参加孙总的私人宴会,记得当年在座的有著名电视剧导演张戈、旅美歌唱家张建一等,席间对大宅门的精美绝伦都表示出惊叹,不愧为上海近代建筑史上优秀住宅建筑,大尺度大空间对称结构,通和洋行的倾情奉献(1918年建造1921年落成)。
因同学和业务关系,应子云结识了上海的一些朋友,如申新纱厂、福新面粉厂的荣家,中国水泥厂的姚家。上海营造业“浙宁帮”的头面人物张继光,是应子云的浙江宁波鄞县同乡又是夜校同学,二人年龄相仿,身世相同,后来结为兄弟好友。····那时,申新纱厂、福新面粉厂的荣德生,中网水泥厂的姚锦林(姚乃炽的父亲)以及通和洋行的应子云,加上协盛营造厂的张继光,姚锦林的中国水泥厂生产的水泥,由张继光的协盛营造厂用来施工。张继光的工程项目主要由通和洋行应子云提供,荣家、姚家建厂大多数项目由通和洋行的应子云提供购买土地的咨询意见和图纸设计,并提供短期融资,各家企业形成强势互补的产业链,各家企业各得其所。
http://www.shtong.gov.cn/newsite/node2/node4429/n107749/n105336/n105352/index.html
Old Shanghailander 2009年对应公馆的探访记看完了,顺便再看看张长根的2010年采访记,里面说到三位应子云朋友圈好友,荣家的事迹已传播开来,另外两位我们扒一下。
附应公馆的房型图,这应该是首发:
两楼和三楼一致,上四楼,打开了阁楼部分绝对对得起百年老宅,惊艳。
大宅门的产证也不多见吧,目前应公馆在售报价3.8亿人民币。
应公馆建于1918年,通和洋行设计,
五开间假四层、
仿欧洲文艺复兴时期巴洛克风格。
建筑面积约1338.64平方米,
花园住宅、
有厅堂、会客室、卧室等30多间,
一楼层高:4.5米、
其他楼层:3.75米。
五个私人停车位;
宗地(丘)面积1059平方米;
总面积587平方米;
使用期限:2002年9月至2072年9月。
我们从一张1949年前的航拍图上截取下黄河路、凤阳路十字路口图像,放大以后有些模糊了,但还是多少能辨认出应公馆的位置。